63 Riviera Dynaflow Question

[michel88]

I know 1963 was the last year for Dynaflow in Riviera's and full size Buicks. My question is was there a "passing gear" that could be kicked in on these transmissions? I have never been able to get my 63 to kick into passing gear. Thanks for any info on this.

[MartyWorld]

I know 1963 was the last year for Dynaflow in Riviera's and full size Buicks. My question is was there a "passing gear" that could be kicked in on these transmissions? I have never been able to get my 63 to kick into passing gear. Thanks for any info on this.

All dynaflows produced for the 1955 model year through 1963 utilize a "variable pitch" stator to raise the stall speed of the torque convertor. Engine rpm will increase when the stator changes from low angle to high angle. This is accomplished by depressing the accelerator to the floor mat. The transmission will always remain in "direct" drive unless the operator of the vehicle shifts to "low" range.

Marty

[Jolly_John]

Woody, there is a kickdown linkage adjustment (up by the carb) that you'll want to double-check on your car. The adjustment procedure is covered in your shop manual. When properly adjusted, my '63 Riv. Dynaflow did feel like it was going into "passing gear", as the gas pedal was punched to the floor. John

[Jim Cannon]

I have kicked my '63 into this "switch pitch" position a couple of times. I decided I am not going to do it any more. (In fact, I have removed the linkage and stored it in a box in the garage.) I concluded that having the full force (torque and horsepower) of that big nailhead engine going through that transmission was NOT a good time to be switching the pitch angle of the vanes inside the torque converter. I feel like that is just asking for the torque converter to self-destruct on you. And not for THAT much additional acceleration. I mean you could feel it, but it was not like it threw you back in your seat or anything.

[michel88]

The "switch pitch" mode was the equivlent of a passing gear in Dynaflows it sounds like. I would like to get mine to work but I would be hesitant to use it. When I first got my Riv, about twenty years ago it had been sitting for a few years. I got it running and driving, but after about 50 miles of driving the torque converter self destructed. I had to find another Dynaflow and had it rebuilt. I have also read on the forum it is a bad practice to start off in Low and shift to Drive. I used to do this once in a while but have never done it again after reading the warning. Thanks to all for this info.

[tim63riv]

Woody,

I have played with the stator linkage and it can be fun to try to synch the stator to the secondaries opening. It is really amazing how the cars perform when everything comes together.

The Dynaflow is no better or worse for reliabiltiy than other transmissions of that era. If you abuse them, they will break, if you baby them they will possibly break, but they will almost always leak no matter what you do!

Parts are available and not real expensive, the cost comes in hiring someone to fix one!

There are other options to update to a modern 4 speed overdrive or a nailhead specific turbo 400.

Tim

[RivNut]

Woody,

I just put the finishing touches on an article I've written on installing a late model o/d automatic transmission behind a nailhead and will be sending it to Ray within the week. I've got the adapter, hub, and torque plate to install on my flexplate. Now I'm just waiting to get my big computer back so I can download some pictures of the parts and a picture of a completed installation in Dave Gee's '65 so I can add those to the article. My trans (a TH200-4R) is going into my '64 Riv. The same kit is available for a dynaflow - that kit also includes a new flex plate and a spacer for the starter besides what I listed above.

Ed