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Buick 23-6-48


Guest Joe's Vintage

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Guest Joe's Vintage

Hello, I was here last summer and was asking for some information on this. I had gone to look at this car and could not even get within ten feet of it at that time. Last week I called the owner and asked if he had dug it out yet so I could really get a good look at it. Response was oh yeah you can get a good look at it now. Well I could get to the radiator and the drivers door and took the best pictures I could. I hope the pictures are attached. I'm still hoping to be able to get this car out where I can LOOK at it.

I have owned a 27 Buick sedan and have information on that series but I can't seem to find any information on the earlier twenties cars. Does anyone have leads to online or other sources of detailed information?

Thank you,

Joe

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Guest Joe's Vintage

Thanks Tom. I was looking to find out more details about the engine and running gear. What type of oiling system, transmission details, rear axle type. What is the availibility of mechanical hard parts. I can do the babbitt and machine work so thats not an issue.

Are there any good on line resources for this era of Buick? I can find information for the brass era or 25 and up. In between those just seems to be a black hole.

Thank you,

Joe

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Joe, I imgine you are not a member of the BCA. The cover car for Jan. 2010 feature is a 4 cylionder sports roadster, Model 39. It is the smaller engine, but it should give you a start, along with info on the tech advisor for that year Buick (but only has a mail address).

I would encourage you to join the BCA, but meanwhile, I have an extra copy this month because my original copy was well delayed in the mail but finally showed last week.

If you want to give me you mail address, off line, I would be glad to mail this copy to you.

Send it to my e-mail address at j.scheib@comcast.net.

John

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Joe, first that could be a great looking car, probably no more than a couple dozen survive. More importantly, that is an original car. It may look bad, but you can still find most if not all mechanical parts if you know where to look.

I encourage you to join another group at Yahoo Groups (Yahoo!), the group is 1927Buicks. We have about 60 or more that focus on the 20s cars. We have several members that have extensive parts supplies.

For your questions, transmission: 3 speed, reverse H pattern; oiling system: pressure to the main bearings, splash on the rods and cylinder walls. My speed is about 35 to max of 40, really based on my ability and need for caution. Brakes are on the rear only, with a hand/emergency brake.

You would be surprised how robust these cars are mechanically, and are very easy to work on. I would say that the only major reason I would walk away from the car would be rot in the wood framing, but then I am no carpenter.

Let us know if you get the car, and then we can give your more advice. Yes, and do join BCA. Here is my recently completed 1923 McLaughlin Buick, model 45.

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Guest Joe's Vintage

Thank you John. You have a very nice looking Buick even if you put the steering column on the wrong side.

That is the kind of information I am looking for. The car seems to be pretty solid. I was able to climb over the piles of stuff and open the drivers door. There doesn't seem to be any noticable drop when you open the door. I also grabbed the latch post and shook the car and it seems very tight. Two fenders have stress cracks but the rest of the body seems to be very straight. I will look into the yahoo site.

Before when I was here looking for information I was told a car like this was worth in the 2 to 3 thousand dollar range. Now granted I didn't have pictures before and the pictures now aren't greatest, but is the still look to be about right?

Thank you to all of you for your help.

Joe

Edited by Joe's Vintage (see edit history)
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My take is the lower, the better if you are the buyer. That does seem about right if all small bits are there and especially if the wood is good (you may want to replace some). It seems the spark plug cover is gone, but I think you can even buy reproduction ones (not sure about all years). Wood wheel condition is another factor.

The Bugle issue I promised will be on its way just as soon as the snow stops here in CT.

John

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Guest Joe's Vintage

Thank you John. I think the plug cover is laying inside the car and he claims the radiator cap is in the trunk. All the small parts seem to be present. Wheels look solid but tires are dead. Thank you again for sending your extra copy of the magazine.

Joe

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Joe,

For more info you need to get a copy of Dave Chamber's "The Early Years of Buick"

that was in Antique Automobile, March/April of 1971, it will answer a lot of your

questions. I think Tom forgot to include 50 hp. and is known as a cage valve Buick.

Although the earlier engines are the same size, the 23 is different than the

older ones.

It looks like a complete car, when you get more pics post them,

The steering wheel looks like it might have been changed.

Be careful with the ign/light switch, as the housing is made of pot metal

and quite often falls apart. I think Bob's Automobilia in CA still has some parts for

early Buick

Good Luck

JB

1922-6-55 Sport Touring

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Guest Joe's Vintage

Thank you all for your help. I'm leaning towards doing this and the more information I get the better! This coupe has the partial back seat with the storage box behind the drivers seat correct? The interior is disassembled enough I can't tell for sure.

Thank you,

Joe

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Joe, from Seventy Years of Buick, "Production of the 4-passenger, 124-inch wheelbase Model 23-48 Coupe climbed again, going up to 10,846 this year. The Fisher-built body was finished in maroon, with black fenders and radiator shell. The car cost $1,895 and weighed 3,440pounds. Tires were 33x4.5 inches."

Also the Dave Chambers article is on the 1927 Buick (Yahoo group) site. Also I would not worry about tires, they are available from several sources, about $125 each.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I tend to agree with mark if all the parts are there and the wood is good.

Join the 1927 Buicks group and you can download the David Chambers Article from the websight. I think that I have read it at least 20 times for its good and correct information.

If you can not find it on the sight, post a note on the sight and I will help you out.

Fred

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Guest Joe's Vintage

Thank you Fred, I'm still trying to get all my ducks in a row on this. The worst part of the car that I can see is the interior. Basically all that is there is a pile of seat springs, it is completely gone upholstery wise. All the hardware seems to be there, but again it is hard to tell because you have to climb over piles to get to the car.

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  • 2 years later...
Guest Art Schick

Hello 1923 Buick enthusiasts:

I have just purchased a 23-6-44 roadster and with it came information on the 1923 Buick newsletter operated by Lee Wangerin of Lakewood CA. Whoever ended up with this 23 Buick, I recommend contacting Lee at 562-920-1611. Lee is old school and does not do Web stuff. His newsletter is available snail mail only.

Art Schick

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Joe,

Lots of great people on this site who will help you.

Is the hand crank under the seat? I'm not too familiar where all the storage spots are on a Model 48, but if you could find the crank and see if it turns over, that would be a positive. Make sure you are not in gear.

Check for body wood rot anywhere you can see, door jams and from the inside if the interior material is shot you should be able to see the wood.

On the comment above on Lee Wangerin. Wonderful man, but out of touch. Sends out hard copies of material we all find for free on the web and he spends hundreds to do it. And he's missed some very good articles along the way including the discussion here. What he spends on printing and postage, he could have bought a nice PC years ago. My Dad is 89 and goes to the public library to use their computer because it's free, went there one day, looked for the smartest looking kid and said 'show me how to search for stuff on noodle (google)' the kid was happy to help him.

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Guest Art Schick

1923 Buick owners - ALL:

My "new" 23 Buick has a cracked water jacket due to a previous owner not fully draining the block. Have any of you drilled and tapped the waterjacket for a drain plug that gets the last of the water out? Unless I am missing something, the drain cocks on the radiator and water pump do not get the last inch of water out of the block. If any one has input as to where a good place would be for another drain plug, I would like to hear about it.

Thanks,

Art

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The 'draining' issue is not unique to early Buick engines, but common to most early engines. The water jacket collects rust at the bottom of the cylinder water jackets. This 'mud donut' retains water and even with a drained block, this material can and will freeze. The solution is to run 50/50 in your Buick during the freezing season. I acomplish this by putting used 50/50 in the Buick in the Fall from another vehicle in need of a coolant change. During the Touring season, I just add water, but in the Fall, the system is drained and new (used) 50/50 added. Save your drill, tap, sealant and plugs.

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