Guest adam_knox Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 So I did the unthinkable, got the Chrysler painted last summer, then apparently last week I was doing some undercoating with Por-15 and got black paint on my blue car! Didn't notice it until a few days later. Any tips on how to get it off while saving my fresh paint job (haven't even waxed the car since its been done yet!)? Is this something I'll just need to drive back over to Maaco for?P.S. There's a lesson in all of this...get a bigger garage so I don't bump into the car! (or be more careful...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest abh3usn Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 I would contact POR-15 about it and see what they recomend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adam_knox Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 lol, I thought about that, although I have a hard time believing they would ever admit their product has any weaknesses! I just love the sticker on the can warning about permanent adhesion to skin! But I shall give them a jingle in case they have a kryptonite solution for the Por-15! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Their warning is true. You have to shed the underlying skin in order for it to release. I speak from the voice of experience. I think you'll end up grinding it off. Sandpaper hardly touches it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bluesky636 Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Actually, you may find it easier to remove than you think.Keep in mind that POR-15 is designed to adhere to rust. It soaks into the pores of the rusty metal and basically becomes one with the rust. Now it will adhere to paint, but not as well as it does to rust. You may be able to remove the worst of it by careful sanding. I would start with 240 or 320 grit. Try to keep your sanding confined to the area where the POR-15 touched. Once you sand down the worst of it, you should be able to re-prime and touch up the affected area. Just don't use the POR-15 solvent on it as that will eat the regular paint also. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 I know that if you paint POR15 on clean shiny metal it will peel off in a few days. The stuff probably won't even stick to paint. Try washing the car. If that doesn't work maybe a clay bar will take it off. I don't think there is anything that will dissolve it.If the washing and the clay bar don't work maybe polishing with fine compound will take it off. And a razor blade scraper for the stubborn spots.Just a suggestion. If you find out anything good let us know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tim hayes Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 I've had luck with very careful use of isopropyl alcohol.No damage to the underlying paint. But don't know if that will work with POR15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lebowski Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Did you really have Maaco paint it or were you kidding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bluesky636 Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lebowski</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Did you really have Maaco paint it or were you kidding? </div></div>MAACO painted my car. Is that a problem for you? Not everyone has the skill, time, or equipment to do it themselves. Not everyone can afford a $5000.00 and up custom paint job either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aerowagon Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Post a Picture of the Areas.. Try a Clay Bar.. Ive used those when lots of Industrial paint overspray has landed on new cars.. its a slow process but some times works.. Theres nothing wrong with Maaco Paint work.. there Body and prepping technics are not the best though.. to many corners cut to make the production schedule..Some peoples pockets are not as deep as others.. and the Know how do do the work can be difficult.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest elmo39 Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 As a quaified car painter for the last 45 odd years , so far there is only one reply that i would be willing to try , that is Rusty,s with the razor blade scraper , fit a new blade , keep the scraper as horizontal to the surface as possible and shave it as if you were shaving your own skin,if you are extremely careful , it works , i have done a police car some years ago (it was black)that had been parked to close to a building being painted , After carefully shaving it all that was required was to finish it off with a bit of polishing compound , i would definately stay away fom trying to sand it off as no matter how carefull you are , you cannot help sanding the surrounding paint . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 When using a razor blade for the above process, you must apply enough force to bend the blade. Keep a low angle and the cutting edge of the blade will lift off of the surface slightly so that it won't cut in. The blade will actually ride on the area of the blade where the cutting edge has been ground and meets the side of the blade. Also keep the blade at a 45-degree angle to the direction of the travel. (An untrained person will defiantly nick the paint several times this way.) There is also a razor blade "paint run shaver" available at auto body stores that may work. Another way is to apply one layer of masking tape to both ends of the blade. This will keep the blade slightly off of the surface. Slight pressure will bring the center of the blade closer to the surface. The one thing good about using a razor on the car, the car won't bleed like you use to, when you first started shaving! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrbartlett Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 I've successfully used the razor blade method several times to remove dried concrete from paint, as well as an unidentified residue. The tape and angle methods sound like good suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adam_knox Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Wow, thanks, those are some great suggestions! I'll post some pictures when I get out there this afternoon. Used to use razor blades when cleaning windows. Should I wet the surface with water first? Also, slightly confused on the masking tape. Do I tape two pieces that fold over the blade itself on each end so only a small section of blade in the middle is capable of coming in contact with the paint when pressure is applied or do I line tape up parallel to the blade on each side? It is a Maaco paint job. Here's the forum link to the pics of the Maaco paint job: http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/515118/1 I'll keep you guys posted on it. Probably do it on Wednesday, in the process of putting on new wheel cylinders and starting it up to see if my rebuilt carb and manifold gaskets stay sealed (fingers crossed!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbbuick22 Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Adam, About 10 years ago VW had an over spray problem at the port center in Baltimore, and I think the solution was to use a plastic razor blade scraper and mineral oil. Then buff. I think the coments about Por 15 not sticking to the smooth paint are correct, but contact Por15 for the best answer. Good Luck, JB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Apply the tape to the ends of the blade. One thickness only.This will also stop nicking the paint with the ends of the blade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Chapman Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: adam_knox</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...Any tips on how to get it off while saving my fresh paint job ...</div></div>You might want to try the run shaver/nib removers on this site. You can probably get them locally at any good auto finish supplier like PPG, etc.http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/runnib.aspxGood luck!JMC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hugh32 Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 If it won't peel off in a couple days as someone has suggested, the thing to use is Dupont enamel reducer 3812. Soak a small portion of a clean rag with 3812 and rub lightly on what you want to remove. It should remove what you want it to without damaging the paint, depending on fresh the paint job is. Your best bet would be to take the car to a reliable auto body shop (not Maaco) and have them look at it. They may just advise you what to do or offer to fix it themselves. Sometimes a professional in the hand is worth a 1000 amateurs in the bush. I was an auto body tech for 30 years. God luck, Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aerowagon Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Here Adam.. bend the blade in the middle.. that will keep the edges from slicing your paint. as a safety precaution tape the edges as shown.. draw the blade towards you on a angle .. you shouldnt have to apply any pressure.. but you will end up polishing because it will remove some the finish . its the same a scraping runs or dirt nibs.. all you are after is to light scrape the over spray off.. it will be a task.. as for chemicals, it may soften the finish and you will be repainting.. if you are worried about how much time it will take.. a detail shop might be the answer.. it will be time consuming.. if the paint is 8 months old.. and its base / clear.. it could be scraped and wet sanded and recleared. theres alot of options.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 I got it on my skin, hands, legs, etc. when I was POR-15-ing my 1941 Dodge Coupe which has a massive trunk, and it stayed stuck on me for weeks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now