Rust Product Por 15

[Guest imported_REATAMANZ]

Has anyone used the rust product called Por 15. Specifically to stop surface rust on the body?

thanks

[rick60]

I used it on the outer panels of a beater Olds. The product was gloss black when applied. It turned to a flat black after about six months. It did stop the surface rust. I did very little prep to the metal before applying the product. I was not concerned with saving the car, I just wanted to see if the product lived up to claims by the manufacturer. It worked well for stopping surface rust. The car was driven in nasty Chicago winters.

[Guest abh3usn]

I don't think it was meant to be used on sheet metal, although it would work. The directions say you can thin it out for spray applications. But I'm not sure how that would work with paint/primer or if it would work at all, if that's your intention. They require a sealer after the inital application then you can apply any paint you like. I would contact the company to see if they recomend it. I've used it but mainly on out of sight things such as the battery box, frame, brake backing plates and such. Here's the link:

http://www.por15.com/

[Bhigdog]

POR-15 is not recommended if exposed to direct sunlight unless it's top coated.......Bob

[jdome]

It doesn't stick well to smooth, clean surfaces like new sheet metal or new iron work. Etching new metal doesn't help either. It flakes off. It needs something to soak into like rust. It bits into & sticks well on sandblasted surfaces but then what paint doesn't. I've had mixed results with it. The only application I think its good for is to brush on floors and inner panel joints that you can't or won't clean down to bare metal and won't see the light of day. Anything exposed to sunlight ( including frames & underside of body) will eventually break down unless you go to additional trouble to overcoat with something else. It is only compatible with certain top coats or certain primers & top coats. It doesn't sand well either if you expect a fine finish.

You don't want to spray it. I suspect you would have to completely disassemble your gun to clean it so no residue hardens in your gun. Its not as though you can shoot some lacquer thinner to clean out your gun.

I also don't like the fact that it doesn't keep well. Once you open a new can, even if just long enough to stir it and pour some into a paint bucket, the remainder will soon scum over and spoil in 3 or 4 weeks. There are a few tricks you can do to extend the shelf life, like transfer the remainder into a smaller can to minimize the air in the can but that is a pain in the butt in my opinion and doesn't add much to its life.

In case you haven't guessed, I tried it and don't like it. I think POR-15 is over hyped & overpriced for what it is. There are similar products on the market for less money and probably the same recipe, if that is the kind of paint you want.

[JZRIV]

I have used it once and to be honest, I like good old 7777 satin black Rustoleum better. I have put it right over rusty metal that was wire wheeled and cleaned and it held as good as POR 15. Its a lot cheaper and more readily available.

[Bhigdog]

I pretty much agree with everything you say, but there is a way to store the stuff for quite awhile.

Don't open the top of the can at all. Punch 2 small holes in the bottom of the can to pour out just what you need and wipe holes clean and cover them with masking tape.

Doesn't seem like it would work but I have a 1/2 full can almost a year old that's still good.......Bob

[keiser31]

Bhigdog...correct and with the pressure of the fluid pushing on the bottom of the can and keeping the air away from the surface of the fluid, it should last quite a while.

[Guest VeloMan]

A sign painter friend of mine never opened his One-Shot sign paint cans. He wound a large screw eye into the lid of each can and just poured out what he needed for the job. I don't know if this would work with Por 15, but it worked on regular oil-base paint.

Phil

[Guest 1941 CADDY]

I WOULD USE KBS 3 PART SYSTEM I THINK IT'S BETTER.WWW.KBS COATINGS.RUST STOP

[SMB]

If you follow the recommended 3 step process I think it works great. 1. Use the Marine Clean, 2. Use the Metal Ready and then 3. POR 15. I used in on various areas on my project with great results - floors, headlight buckets, battery tray, etc.

I also used in on a fender where I grafted a rusty section onto my original. I applied POR 15 to the inside and exterior.

I did visit with a professional restorer who said you have to be careful about what top coat you use as he has had some problems.

I think a phone call to the company will resolve that.

I know of a fellow who doesn't like it but he hasn't followed the preparation procedure -trying to save a couple bucks I suppose.

The product goes a long way and flows out nicely leaving a shiny, very tough finish.