Radial tires for antique car

[pint4]

I have a 1935 Buick Model 41 Four Door Sedan and a 1933 Buick Model 68 Victoria Coupe. I don't care for the ride and steering I get with my bias belted tires. I would like to switch to radial tires. I am looking for recommendations regarding brand, where to buy them, who to buy them from, tube or tubeless recommendation, best price, etc. Does anyone have an opinion? It would be nice if they had a bit of an original appearance but not an absolute necessity.

I also need an exhaust manifold for the 33 Buick.

Thanks.

Bob

[Guest Bluesky636]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pint4</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a 1935 Buick Model 41 Four Door Sedan and a 1933 Buick Model 68 Victoria Coupe. I don't care for the ride and steering I get with my bias belted tires. I would like to switch to radial tires. I am looking for recommendations regarding brand, where to buy them, who to buy them from, tube or tubeless recommendation, best price, etc. Does anyone have an opinion? It would be nice if they had a bit of an original appearance but not an absolute necessity.

I also need an exhaust manifold for the 33 Buick.

Thanks.

Bob </div></div>

www.cokertire.com

They can probably help you out.

E-Bay for the exhaust manifold.

[pint4]

Thanks for the reply. I have searched Ebay for 3 years with no success. I would buy an entire engine for a 1933 Series 60 Buick if I had to to get the manifold. I believe 1934 Series 60 Buick manifolds fit also.

Bob

[MCHinson]

pint4,

It is your car and do what you want to with it...

But... what makes you think that you are going to like the "ride and steering" better by putting radial tires on it? Have you checked out all of the suspension components and front end adjustments to make sure there is not another reason why you are having problems?

If everything is in original condition, the car should ride like it did when it was new. That was a pretty nice car when new. If you are interested in judging, incorrect tires are going to cost you, and I would personally doubt that they are going to improve the ride and steering of your car. If everything is as it was originally, I think you would be happy with it.

With that said, Coker Tires is the place to find tires for your car. (I would just recommend that you consider tires like the ones that came on it originally if you actually need new tires.) Good luck!

[SMB]

Take a look at Diamondback Tires also.

[Jim Bollman]

If you're using original rims I would use tubed tires and be sure you get tubes that are meant for use in radials, they are different. Older rims were not sealed for tubeless tires.

I ran radials on a 52 Crosley and they ran alright but on that car I had to run a lot higher air pressure than was recommended by the tire manufacture to get decent handling it was kind of squirmy otherwise.

Radials do tend to exaggerate loose suspension components, so as MC said make sure all is in spec.

[Guest Trunk Rack]

RE RADIAL TIRES ON "ANTIQUE" CARS

Your question comes up quite frequently in various old car forums, and invariably gets the same WIDE range of responses.

What you have noticed ("squirrelly" handling) is infuriating. We all know the cars didn't behave like that when in service.

Here's the problem. MODERN "repro" bias tires come from a wide variety of sources, mostly overseas, and thus have a wide variety of quality issues. A few of the repro. bias tires will make your car handle properly, but why take a chance?

The repro. bias tires I had on my old car gave it such dismal & scary handling I took the suspension apart twice before I finally gave up, and, coincidentally, found out about radials.

You will be VERY happy with radials from either of the two sources suggested in the above posts. Unless you get unlucky and get some low quality junk, you will find your car handles like it should.

One of the sillier rumors floating around is that radials somehow wont work on older wheels, and/or set up stresses. For those who stayed awake in their high-school phsyics and math classes, they know that a given pressure against the flange of the rim, is a given pressure. Actually, because radial side-walls are more flexible and compliant to incoming road shocks, they transfer LESS concentrated stress inputs to your wheels, rather than more. If your wheels are crack-free, they will work out fine.

With one qualification - by the early 1930's, MOST production wheels on passenger cars were what we call "drop center", made by MOTOR RIM & WHEEL or BUDD, and thus tires are tires and will fit fine. There were still some wood and "artillery wheels" being requested as options and special order; I have NO idea how those would work out.

You wont need tubes if they are standard welded wheels. You will only need tubes if they are RIVETED. And radials will cover up a lot of "sins' of worn suspensions, NOT make them worse.

You WILL notice, at first, MUCH lighter steering inputs, so much so you will, at first, think someone has snuck power steering into your car, and thus think perhaps it is too sensitive. You will quickly get used to how your car is SUPPOSED to steer and feel.

[Guest]

You don't necessarily need tubes with rivited rims. A properly done rivet is airtight. I had three Buicks with rivited rims and ran tubeless tires on all of them. Out of the fifteen rims one spare leaked and the local shop that did springs and straightened rims fixed it in about two minutes. A little heat with the torch and a bang with a hammer and it was all done. Looked simple. Quick and easy but I suspect there was a certain amount of expertise and experience involves in the process.

[pint4]

Thanks for the feedback. I might clarify one thing. It is not like my 35 Buick has extremely bad handling. I have driven it on 200 mile trips and back with good success. I did notice it tended to want to follow the cracks in the road more than I preferred. I was told radials would help resolve this issue. I have had front end work done to the car which has 25,000 miles on it. Suspension is up to par unless something was missed. Always looking to make a bit of improvement whenever I can.

Bob

P.S. Anyone have an exhaust manifold for a Series 60 1933 Buick. I believe a 34 Buick Series 60 manifold will work also.

Thanks.

[DavidAU]

I have used radial tires on 30's cars and have found them to be much preferable to cross plys however, most vintage tire suppliers issue cautions in their printed brochures stating that old style rims may be subject to cracking due to the extra side loading that radials generate. This is due to the radials extra grip when cornering which is transferred to the rims whereas the cross plys tread will side slip and not load the rim. They do not state you should not use radials but that you should be aware and have a regular inspection.

David

[A by the sea]

You really have to be sure your suspension is right.

Radial tires tend to grip the road surface and follow defects on the road surface. If your car is loose then the change to radials may make the car handle MUCH worse.

I learned this first hand with a mustang I had. Came with bias tires. First wet road day and I switched radials. Car was all over the road. By the next week I had new upper and lower control arms and other parts. Mustangs are notorious for having loose upper inner pivots since they were hard to grease.

A secondary symptom is a pull when you break. The front end changes geometry when the weight changes.

BTW, I am not telling you to not put radials on. I am just warning you that you may find other parts that need service.

[Guest papete]

I installed radials on my 63 ford galaxie on Friday. It makes an amazing improvement in handling and ride quality. Far more than you would expect. If you are into driving your car as opposed to correctness go for it.

[Guest Trunk Rack]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: A by the sea</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You really have to be sure your suspension is right. I AGREE COMPLETELY !

Radial tires tend to grip the road surface YES - SIGNIFICANTLY BETTER THAN 'BIAS' TIRES. and follow defects on the road surface. WRONG WRONG WRONG - IT IS BECAUSE RADIALS GRIP BETTER THAT RADIAL TIRE EQUIPPED CARS DO NOT 'HUNT' ALL OVER THE PLACE LIKE (MANY, NOT ALL) MODERN REPRO BIAS TIRES DO... If your car is loose then the change to radials may make the car handle MUCH worse. WRONG ! WHERE DO YOU GET THESE IDEAS FROM ?

I learned this first hand with a mustang I had. Came with bias tires. First wet road day and I switched radials. Car was all over the road. By the next week I had new upper and lower control arms and other parts. Mustangs are notorious for having loose upper inner pivots since they were hard to grease. I AM NOT INFORMED ABOUT FORD PRODUCTS OF THAT SIZE. BUT IT DOES NOT SURPRISE ME IF YOUR SUSPENSION IS SHOT, THAT ANY CAR WILL BE 'ALL OVER THE ROAD' NO MATTER WHAT KIND OF TIRES YOU USE.

A secondary symptom is a pull when you break. I THINK YOU MEANT TO REFER TO 'BRAKE'. IF I AM CORRECT, THAN YOU ARE CORRECTLY NOTING THAT WHEN A FRONT END IS REALLY BAD, BRAKING ACTION WILL ACCENT ALL MANNER OF DANGEROUS STEERING ISSUES. The front end changes geometry when the weight changes. YES, CORRECT. AGAIN, ALL THE MORE REASON TO MAKE PROPER REPAIR OF SUSPENSION ISSUES A TOP PRIORITY !

BTW, I am not telling you to not put radials on. I am just warning you that you may find other parts that need service. </div></div> GOOD ADVICE ! WHEN OUR CARS OF ANY YEAR, WERE IN SERVICE AS PROPERLY MAINTAINED USED CARS (ALL CARS ARE USED ONCE YOU TAKE DELIVERY AND DRIVE EM OFF THE LOT) THEY STEERED AND TRACKED JUST FINE ! AS I NOTED EARLIER, MANY (NOT ALL) MODERN BIAS REPRO TIRES CAUSE TRULY LOUSY HANDLING, EVEN ON OTHEREISE PROPERLY MAINTAINED CARS, FOR REASONS I AM NOT QUALIFIED TO EXPLAIN. WHAT WE DO KNOW IS - - - -

FIX EM RIGHT, PUT RADIALS ON THEM, AND GET THAT OLD CAR OUT ON THE ROAD WHERE WE CAN SEE IT !