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'90 Reatta electronics


ojh

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I have a '90 Reatta that the secuity system is being triggered. I have no information on this car, owners' manual- nothing. I have ordered a copy of the buick service manual but now i need to read the obd1 body codes. What is the best way to accomplish this?

Thanks in advance for any help you can give, i relly need it. oj, btw my email is ojh4@verizon.net thanks again.

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There is a seperate lead [has a brown plastic end]in the door. It is not too hard to replace, just that you need to remove the inner door.

Jim Finn would have one or you can go to a u-pick yard and pull one. Doing it the u-pick way gives you the opportunity to practice.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I received some sage advice from this forum earlier and am in the process of diagnosing the problem and wondering if anybody else is experienced these symtoms:

When opening door the security system goes off (no difference if opened with key, keyless or just lifting the latch); while driving the dash display goes blank and the message 'error' appears along with 'electrical problem'

The courtesy lights don't work.

I am thinking it is in the 'wake-up' signal process between the CPS and BCM and am in the process of testing the circuitry. Anybody else done this? Any advice/thoughts?

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Guest Richard D

On my car if the car is locked with the key or the remote then unlocked with the key or remote the alarm goes off, will not disarm until you disconnect a battery terminal for a few seconds. Also the interior lights will come on with the dash switch or the remote and when you lift up on the door handle. They will not come on when either door is opened. Jim Finn told me he thinks the problem is a switch in the door that has come loose from it's proper position. I would tend to agree, when I get around to pulling the door panel I will let you know what I find.

Richard

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Just getting more miserable. I tested and retested the CPS & BCM circuitry following the Buick manual. I doublechecked each test and took a break and retested, all three times i came up with the same answer: replace the BCM. I tooka 4hour ride and got another BCM, just now plugged it in and have the same results: 'Error' 'Electrical problem' Must be a Buick Breakfast i am having.

I can't read error codes because the display area has 'error' wirtten all over it. Anybody have any notion as to what is going on?

Thanks, oj

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You can always use a scan tool if the ALDL is functioning, I have an OTC 2000 with a 1993 "all-in-one" cartrige that works nicely on my computer cars, they used to be common/inexpensive on eBay. There are a lot of "OBD-1" (really means "before OBD-II") scanners out there, some (moates.net) for a laptop.

Worst case you can jumper A-B on the ALDL and count the SES light flashes. This is not different than for any GM far without the digital display.

"Electrical Problem" is just a generic problem indication that appears whenever communications is lost.

ps when you swapped the BCMs, did you also swap the PROMs (2) ?

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Thanks for the help, nice enough to know others are nearby. To answer some of the questions: The BCM came from a 90 Reatta, no i left the eproms (i have both boxes); I was not aware until today that the prob;em could be with the IPC, there is nothing in the Buick Manual diagnostics that would lead me in that direction, but i will have a looksee as soon as i ring out the circuits that i have tested to make sure i have not crossed wires in the different pin connectors.

I have looked for a scan/code reader but the ones i have checked on will read only the engine codes, if there is better devices out there point me in the right direction and i will get them.

One other problem that i didn't mention is that the 'error' is intermittant, there are times that i can almost enter the diagnostics befor the display gets all 'wiggy' on me and displays the 'error' message. And it will switch at random between 'error' and normal.

The diagnostics seem keyed on the fact that the courtesy lights won't work and is an indicator of issues within the computors - akin to dashlights being same as taillights so that when you don't have dashlites you'll know the tailights are out as well.

Will report back later, unless you hear of a particularly brutal suicide in the shenandoah valley like 'berryville man throws car off the shenandoah river bridge and jumps into drivers seat as car plummets to river...details on page 5'

Later, oj

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Since some of my cars lack the display capability I have had an OTC 2000 for years. Several are on eBay right now Just make sure it has the GM 12 pin cable adapter and a 91 or later GM or "Domestic Pathfinder" aka "3 in 1" cartridge. These appear to be in the $50 to $75 range for a complete kit with the briefcase sized kit (hinges are a weak spot) and the manuals.

They display the codes and all of the engine parameters/sensors. Essential for a Fiero.

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Still at it, think my knees will be crippled for life. I'm thinking the problem is in the courtesy light/switching circuitry. Probably broken wire/short in the flex part at the hinge. problem is that the scehatics and as built are different at connector 200 (as well as 201 & 216) and i am having a time identifying circuitry. The good news is that i havn't tossed this off the bridge...yet.

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I was wrong, the connectors are represented correct ie: color code & etcetc.

Yes i am still at it and have not thrown the mess off the bridge.

I have part of the problem in hand, the drivers' door handle switch is bad. The mounting bracket rivets (or mushed metal from pot metal casting of the door handle pocket) have loosened and the spring of the switch pushes the bracket (and switch) away from the door handle cam, the switch closes (it is a normally open switch)and sends a ground to the bcm as if you were opening the door.

I have yet to figure out the courtesy lighting problem but i got this [censored] by the short and curlies and it'll be working soon enough.

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The drivers door switch being fixed i concentrated on the courtesy lights and it was suggested to have alook at splice S305 because of the proximty of the splice to the devices that either worked or didn't work. As soon as i slid the passenger seat ahead to see how to remove it i knew i had struck paydirt. The carpet in back was soaked (this car is a convertable). I pulled the seat, interior panels and lifted the carpet to expose the raceway lateral for the main harness. I opened the raceway to find standing water saturating the wireing and contaminating splices. Little wonder the poor car had 'electrical problem' if anything it just shows the quality of the car that it didn't just burn up from a short.

I think there is quite a few of you that have followed my saga and it has a satisfied ending. You just don't quit and always look in one more place. Now about my knees...

Thanks, oj

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