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29 Pick Up rebuild


Guest Merchant Xpress

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Guest Merchant Xpress

One of my biggest problems is I can't stay focused on one thing at a time. So yesterday I slipped home from work and pulled a brake line off and sent it to my parts guys to see if we can get others. I have to wait until monday to find out so today I decided to pull the carb. Sure glad I did that, it was full of white crystal like powder. All the jets were plugged with the junk, not sure what it is but I'm thinking some residue from the new fuels or something leaching from the pot metal. I pulled it all apart and gunked it, the loose stuff all came out but the metal still has a coating of it. I am glad the float is still complete without any holes. I'm not sure what the float level should be but I'll start at 1/2 inch and work from there. No varnish in the bowl though and that surprised me. Still waiting for my motor mount to come home.

Harry

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Merchant Xpress

Wayne, thank you. I haven't gotten much done on the truck in the last week. Work always seems to interfere with hobbies. I finally got my motor mount back from Andy Bernbaum, he did a great job on it so I will get it back on as soon as possible. I'm ready to put the carb back together and I can do that inside where it's warm so that will be an evening project once the rains hit.

Harry

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest Merchant Xpress

UPdate, finally got the motor running with a leaky carb, to be replaced, and finding what the oil pressure problem was and how to cure it. I have a cast iron part to repair that is going to be an ugly job. I need to get the truck inside now so I can start working on replacing wood. I will take some pictures and post them before I start.

Harry

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Guest Merchant Xpress

I have a carb replacement question. I can get a rebuilt Carter for about $250, or I can get a new Zenith for the same amount. The Zenith doesn't have an accelerator pump as it is for industrial engines. Will that be a problem?

Harry

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Guest Merchant Xpress

Thanks Rick, I have decided to go with the new Zenith after listening to a lot of different opinions and from hearing of others who run carbs with no accelerator pumps.

Harry

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This is great following your progress! As to the oil pump; wild guess,,,,,you said the car has a Plymouth type engine? Note, early Plymouth engines have oil pumps that are on the side of the block (above the oil pan). When allowed to sit for long periods of time they are known to lose their prime. Try cleaning the pump and priming it.

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Guest Merchant Xpress

HarryJ, thank you. That is what I have done, I also primed the pump and unhooked the vacuum line while I'm getting the vacuum tank problems ironed out. So today I finally got a fitting for the vacuum tank. Last week I took the vacuum tank apart and cleaned everything, valves were sticking and the flapper wasn't closing right. It's all back together now and today I set up a false tank to feed the vacuum tank. A little choke to the carb and she fired right up. She ran real smooth and purred like a kitten. The oil pump has a leak around the gasket and the thermostat housing has a water leak but I had 35psi of oil pressure at idle, the vacuum kept pulling fuel from the gas can into the vacuum tank and I'm a happy camper. Now I need to get a four tires as these are pretty old and weathered, one blew out, they all need replaced. I can get it into the garage once I get some tires on it. Then I start woodworking. I need to take some good before pictures so I can look back and see exactly what I started with.

Harry

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Basically, there are two types of automobile cooling systems, which are widely used by the automobiles namely: liquid cooling and air-cooling. Liquid cooling is one of the sought after system used by most of the vehicles today while air-cooling is mostly used by airplanes, motorcycles and lawn mowers. The liquid-cooling system for automobiles offers the most positive cooling and it maintains an optimum engine temperature. While air cooling system is feasible for only small vehicles and equipment, as air-cooled engines do not operate at consistent temperature and command extensive use of aluminum to disperse heat.

Chief Enterprises | America's provider of Bosch Relays, Solenoids, Connectors, and Diodes

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: keiser31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The only real dependable air-cooled car that I know of was the Franklin. They performed very well in all conditions. Oh yeah.....and Vee Dubs & Corvairs. </div></div>

Having owned all of the cars mentioned by keiser31, I can say that cooling problems were the only problems that these cars never had. Many motorcycles still use it as it can't be beat for simplicity and light weight. High-performance motorcycles have mostly went water-cooled to maintain tighter tolerances for engines that can rev past 15k rpm. I assume Porsche gave ti up for similar reasons.

The only reason that I know of that air cooling is not in use today in road vehicles is emissions. Although, all of my air-cooled cars always passed the NYMA emissions test.

BTW, what does this have to do with the 29 Dodge that is the basis of this thread?

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Guest Merchant Xpress

How the heck did we get onto air cooled versus water cooled? Did I post something I don't remember about my engine being air cooled? I keep rereading Chief's post and I don't know what prompted it.

Anyway, I hope to get some work done on the truck this weekend. I have this rare disease called lackamoneyosis. It strikes whenever I need tires or some such thing that causes a large expenditure. I know that none of you other guys that restore old cars know what that is but take my word for it, it's tough on the old pocket book and it really slows down the progress.

Harry

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Guest Merchant Xpress

In an exhibition of great stupidity I accidentally got some gasket maker in the bolt holes on the flange that hooks the hose from the head to the water pump. So while installing the bolts the resulting pressure of forcing the goop into the hole cracked the cast iron around the bolt hole. Just enough so that the bolt hole leaks. So today I put the bolt,(now cleaned of the gasket maker) back into the hole and used a cast iron repair epoxy into the cracks and clamped it closed. Hopefully this will repair the leak. The epoxy cured as hard as steel so I'm hoping I have affected a repair in place of welding. I guess I will know when I bolt the flange back in place and add water. I hate it when I create my own problems.

Harry

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I had a '64 Plymouth Valiant Wagon that burnt a channel between the #1 & #2 Cylinders on a 225 slant 6. I did not clearly know the problem until I pulled the head. The solution was liquid steel ("epoxy") putty and then it was filed down and sanded. New head gasket and it ran great for another 10 K before I sold it, never a problem. Epoxy putty is a new age duck tape.

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Guest Merchant Xpress

I have a new predicament. I no longer seem to be getting juice to the ignition. Before if I turned on the ignition my amp meter would show a discharge when the points closed. Now I don't and I don't seem to be getting a spark. I'm going to look for a fuse but I really haven't seen one yet while crawling around under the dash. Since the ignition switch is part of the coil or vice versa I'm hoping the coil hasn't died. Maybe the contacts in the switch are bad. I guess I'll have to drop coil and see what I have to deal with. Does anyone have any ideas who would have the switch coils for sale? Just in case. I just got my new carb so it's only right that something else should die, dang it.

Harry

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Guest Merchant Xpress

Well, I did some more looking up under the dash and I found a fuse. It is over the amp meter. That's the good news, the bad news is the fuse isn't burned so that isn't the problem. All the wiring is in bad shape but I was hoping not to have to make a new harness until I was ready to rebuild the cab. Now it looks like I will have to start making a new wire harness. First I need to track the hot wire from the battery to the ignition switch. This should be an interesting project. Does anyone have a source for the cloth covered wire?

Harry

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Guest Merchant Xpress

Well alright now. A little time in daylight and I tracked down the electrical problem. For some unknown reason after only 80 years a wire failed at the starter button. I just took a simple test lamp and started tracking juice and quickly found where it stopped. It was the wire going to the amp meter then on to the ignition. Once replaced I had power once again. The truck started and ran just fine with the new carb in place. The generator is charging, the water pump is pumping and the vacuum tank is keeping the carb full. Now on to the body work, or I should say carpentry as the cab is all wood covered with sheet metal. I need to call Lucas Tires and order a set of new tires. Lots of stuff to do as I want to get it ready for the first cruise nite in April.

Harry

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Harry, I do have an extra switch. Now.....you had better re-send me your address since I cannot seem to hang onto it even after shipping stuff to you. Man, I wish that you had '31 Dodge stuff to trade because I don't know how much to charge you for it. Hmmmmmmm.......John

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Guest Merchant Xpress

John, I'm guessing the top bumper in the pictures is the rear bumper. I'll look at what we have in the shed on Monday.

Harry

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Guest Merchant Xpress

Stuck at an impasse right now. It's raining and I don't have the truck in the garage yet. I put an old tire I had with a new tube on the back to move it and the danged thing blew out just sitting there. The electric fuel pump I bought a few years ago doesn't have a diaphragm so I need to buy another one. Or find someone with a diaphragm for a S-W model 12-99 6 volt electric pump. Most part stores don't even carry 6 volt electric pumps anymore. You have to order them. I did get the light switch from Keiser 31, thank you John. If it quits raining I'll go out and put the light switch onto the steering column. Maybe get the lights working again, and the horn. Make a little headway and get it closer to being road ready.

Harry

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Merchant Xpress

Oh crud, it looks as though I might have water in the oil. At least the oil took on a milky look while the engine was running today. Hopefully it's only a blown head gasket. I sure don't want to find a cracked block. The only way I'll know for sure is too pull the head. The engine did get exposed to a heavy downpour but I don't think enough water could get in through splashing to show in the oil. I'll let the engine sit for a couple of days and drain the oil to see how much water I'm dealing with. At least the weather is supposed to stay nice for a few days, I just need to make the time to get to it. On another note both the levers on the steering wheel are broken off so there are only nubs. Both nubs look to have a small bolt in the center so I'm wondering if my levers had screw on knobs instead of the paddles I've seen on other cars. I'm not sure how someone would break these off, they don't move hard but it took me awhile to figure out how they work. Seems pretty simple once you know the routine. Same with starting, retard spark, choke step on button. Once it starts advance spark and open choke. Then panic when you see milky oil.

Harry

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Guest Dean_H.

It's surprising how rain water finds it's way into an engine or transmission. I'd probably try changing the oil before pulling the head. Good luck

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  • 3 years later...

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