Continually Running pump, NEW accumulator STILL no brake PWR.

[Barney Eaton]

This sketch may make more sense.........

Also this would need to be modified for "88 cars with the other type of line. I suspect you can buy lines with the "banjo" fitting on one end and a flair fitting on the other for '88 applications.

[Ronnie]

Barney, that looks like it would work. however I have another Idea that I would like to add.

What about taking an old accumulator and making an adapter out of it by drilling and tapping the hole in the top where the allen wrench fits, the correct size so you could screw a pressure gauge into it?

You would need to pierce the bladder in the old accumulator (it would probably be broken already) to allow the pressure to reach the gauge.

Then you could remove the accumulator from the car and screw your new adapter into the the manifold to test pump pressure. See Photo below.

[Guest steakneggs]

I'm not certain, but I think that the factory setup includes the accummulator so it can be tested for it's ability to store pressure. Why else would it be a part of it?

[Ronnie]

You are correct. It wouldn't test the accumulator's ability to hold pressure. I was under the impression we were needing to test the pump. I was looking for an easy way to do it. The brake test on Reatta.net already has a test for the accumulator being bad.

[Guest steakneggs]

I was looking at my '88 FSM and the gauge replaces the banjo bolt in the pressure line. I was looking for the test for the accumulator and the only thing I could find was a "pre-charge pressure" reading below 500 some psi or above 1100 some psi. That manual is quick to have you throw a complete $2500 Teves at some problems. One of the tests tells you to first replace the pump/motor and if that doesn't work replace the master cylinder! How many Reatta owners had a $3000 bill to fix lowly brakes? No wonder they have no resale value. Steak

[Guest RoadmstrNReatta]

A cheap to buy Reatta is NEVER "cheap" for long I am finding out!!!!!

[Ronnie]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RoadmstrNReatta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A cheap to buy Reatta is NEVER "cheap" for long I am finding out!!!!! </div></div>I know what you are saying all too well. I think most of us probably get more tied up in our Reattas than we would like.

[Guest crazytrain2]

A FYI - I had shopped prices for rebuilt motor & pump and found Autozone cheapest in town on Cardone. In this case it's $329 but that includes a new accumulator!

Heres some links for reference:

http://www.autozone.com/R,627004/vehicleId,1030901/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,2598/partType,01586/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

http://www.cardone.com/English/club/members/customer/ecat_brands/imageinfo.asp?PARTNUM=12-4408

Also a contact at Cardone who sent me pics and confirmed the accumulator was included (at least it was with mine 12-4407)

DSpang@cardone.com

[Guest steakneggs]

I would get a used pump/motor from someone. You can also just get the pump because it separates from the motor and your motor is good. I would never spend more than a hundred dollars to fix a Teves. There's a bunch of used Teves and Teves parts out there. Steak

[Guest RoadmstrNReatta]

So, which parts can use used ones from pre 1991 Riviera's, Toro's, Seville's & Eldo's? I see plenty of THOSE at the yard's but never any Reatta's of course.

[Guest steakneggs]

Before you swap out your pump, did you check for a clogged reservoir? All you have to do is pull the rear hose off the reservoir, see if fluid pours out, and stick it back on if it does. If it doesn't, you have found the problem. Since your's is working intermittently that's what it sounds like. A bad pump wouldn't fix itself. Steak

[Guest RoadmstrNReatta]

No, I haven't check for a clog.

I drove it around a bit today, brakes feel okay, still has YELLOW light on with new Accumulator though, never turned off.

[Guest steakneggs]

My FSM shows the same pressure parameters to illuminate both lights, so I don't know why one would still be on unless it's something in the ABS that's malfunctioning. Don't tailgate. Steak

[Ronnie]

Check for ABS codes through the ALDL connector. They will not show up in diagnostics screen. Follow the procedure in the FSM section 5E1-8 to retrieve the codes. Let us know the results.

[DAVES89]

For the amber light that is on. I would check the ABS sensor leads to the front wheels. If the cable is worn/frayed, I would replace them. I bought 2 of Jim Finn installed them and my light went out never to return.

[Guest RoadmstrNReatta]

Are those ABS lead wires/cables available from the dealer still? part#

[Guest Drake]

One of the first problems I had when I purchased my Reatta, was the amber ABS light was on all the time. After numerous testing & cussing, turned out to be the plug on the electronic brake module wasn't locked into place. Snapped it back in, ABS light went out.

The module is located in the trunk, mounted to the driver's side wheel well, behind the carpeting.

[DAVES89]

I don't know as I just ordered from Jim. But if you checked with your local dealer he probably could tell you both part # and availibilty. Then you would know and be a source of information to the forum as well.

[Guest RoadmstrNReatta]

Well, funny enough that was exactly my problem Drake. It looked well connected, but just to be on the safe side I reconnected and VIOLA` the ABS light went off. WOW....I now have a Reatta with "working" brakes. KNOCK WOOD!!!!! Thanks for all the help, it was very helpful AND appreciated.

[padgett]

Early on the question was raised about seeing flow in the resovoir. This condition is abby-normal and indicates that either the m/c is dumping fluid into the line internally or one or more of the ABS dump valves is stuck open.

The latter could account for the yellow light staying on (no ABS). Since you have brakes now that indicates that the motor/pump is working properly.

Sounds like you need a rebuilt ABS unit. I just passed on a very nice appearing triple blue 'vert because the yellow light never went off & owner was not willing to adjust the price accordingly.

[Ronnie]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: padgett</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="color: #FF0000">Sounds like you need a rebuilt ABS unit.</span> I just passed on a very nice appearing triple blue 'vert because the yellow light never went off & owner was not willing to adjust the price accordingly. </div></div>Did you possibly read his last post incorrectly? He said he has good brakes and the yellow ABS light was out. Why would he need a new ABS unit?

[Guest MauiWowee]

I believe the comment about turbulence came from Steak, not the OP.

[Ronnie]

I didn't mention turbulence. I questioned why Padgett thought RoadmstrNReatta needed a rebuilt ABS unit. I still wonder why. I know Padgett is very smart on these matters and I would like to know his reasoning. He must have saw something in another post that I missed to think a rebuilt ABS unit was needed.

[Guest steakneggs]

Let me clarify something about the "turbulence" in the reservoir which is no longer an issue on this thread because his brakes are functioning. According to the FSM, under the chart for continuous running pump and red light on, looking for visable flow in the reservoir would indicate that the pump is working. You will not see it on a system that is working properly because the pump will shut off before you can get out of the car to check it. I've never seen it for myself and would not be anything to look for in a functioning system. It only allows you to determine if the pump or the master cylinder is at fault for the above symptom. Steak