"What If" question regarding brakes.

[dnt]

What if a FRONT wheel brake line fails, do we loose all brakes? What if a REAR brake line fails, do we loose all brakes?

My brake lines look rusty and I am wondering the worse case scenario if one ruptures. I rather deal with replacing them when the weather is a bit more pleasant.

When replacing the brake lines, do we just use generic lines from the auto parts store and custom fit or...?

[Barney Eaton]

No, since 1967 all new cars in the US were required to have dual or isolated breaking. I believe some imports have one front and the opposite rear on the same circuit, but if one line or one part of the mastercylinder fails, you have half of the system still working.

[dnt]

Thank you Barney for clarifying that for me.

I am having a senior moment, I seem to recollect reading where a Reatta onwer spoke of having total, unexpected, brake failure. What could cause such failure if not a ruptured brake line?

[Richard S]

If you go back through the archives you will find several posts of those saying they experienced the "rock hard" pedal syndrome. In the old days, brake failure was associated with a pedal that went to the floor with no braking effect. I have not seen such a post in my tenure here. I have read of those saying they got a warning light either some time before [weeks or days], or in one or two cases, moments before the pedal went rock-hard. The result was that they could not get any braking because they were unable to press the pedal at all. I have experienced both the pedal to the floor and the rock hard pedal on my Allante. The Reatta did the pedal to the floor, but I could pump and get braking.

[Guest steakneggs]

I ruptured a rear brake line on my '88 which eventually led to my Teves expiring. I replaced it with a section of line from Advance Auto. It is the bubble-head metric line with the green nipples labled BLE. They come in increments of ten inches with the exception of a twelve inch size. The longest is 60 inches. The original main rear line is 11 feet or so. If you use these short lines you will have to get a union or two. The union is Brass-Tite #43512 and is sold at Advance Auto and Pep Boys. If you mess with the rear lines you will have to disturb the rear proportioning valve which is in a location selected by SATAN! You will also have to install the Teves nipple on the first line. Good luck, Steak

[Machiner 55]

Yo, Yo Steak,

I don't know how long you've owned your Reatta but, the longer you have it the more "opportunity" you have to find even more of evidence of SATANS' handiwork. That proportioner valve location is just one of many. At first blush, a lot of jobs look to be simple at the onset but, what at first looks like a "fifteen minute job" turns into a multi-day (if your lucky) if not a multi-week (if your not) project. Some examples of Satan’s' work are:

1.) Signal bulb placement (replacement).

2.) Relationship of Ball-joint stud to ABS ring gear.

3.) Rear brake caliper rebuild fiasco.

4.) Headlight gear/roller/bell-crank assembly.

5.) The little rubber gas line keeper that, not only holds the three fuel lines in place but, holds salty water there to corrode the lines and allow gas to spew forth when the fuel pump runs.

6.) Freeze plug location related to firewall. (you just try replacing one of those leaking b*st*rds without pulling the engine... go ahead... I dare you! Ain’t no easier doing it on a Rivi either.) etc... etc...

Anyone else have examples of his handiwork please feel free to add to the list.

PS

I still love my Reattas despite the cursed devils work in them.

[Ronnie]

I have done some of the things in your list without two much trouble. The hardest thing I have done so far on my Reatta is replacing the transmission dip stick tube seal. It has only one bolt holding it but it is almost impossible to get to. You can't see it and there is only room for one hand. Everything around it is sharp as a razor. My arm was cut to pieces before the job was done.

[Machiner 55]

Yes... there again is his work.

There's also another bolt like that on the car. It can't be readily seen nor easily gotten to. You need to use a mirror and a flashlight to find it but the tool that you use to remove it blocks your view of it no matter what you do. The bolt MUST be removed if you want to separate the engine from the transmission. And who’s responsible for this ????? SATAN!

[89REATTAJIM]

Sometime back, thought I had to replace my "neutral safety switch". Luckily, problem was an underdash relay, (which was not easy to remove); but the switch looks like a real PITA.

[Machiner 55]

Good one there Jim.

The switch <span style="font-style: italic">is </span> located under the TEVES unit.

I don't speak the German language but, I'm beginning to believe that TEVES is Germanic code for SATAN!

(sometimes I crack myself up!)

[Guest steakneggs]

A couple more things about brake lines. If they are rusted beyond use, you can just cut them near the prop valve or brake hose and use a socket to loosen them (that's what I ended up doing). They are 12 mm. Getting them unscrewed from the prop valve is difficult because there is no room to swing a wrench. If you have a 12 point line wrench or a crows foot and stubby ratchet it might not be bad at all. To reach the front of the long line you must remove the Teves pump (easy). I would cut the line and use a box wrench (14mm I think) on the forward fitting (the middle one). An alternative to replacing the whole front line is to flare it where it's not rusty and install a union along with a new section of line. Remove left rear tire to gain access to hose attaching points. Steak