1928 series "72" Chrysler Royal sedan

[HarryJ]

Here are some pictures of the challenges/projects I am now working on. The top picture is the Pemberthy Ball & Ball SV-37. The unit you are looking at is a NOS carb; however, you will note upon close examination the ravages of zinc disease. I really would like to reproduce one of these carbs. If I am lucky I can develope a rapid prototyping technique that will allow me to facilitate this goal. Below that are NOS examples of the two oil filters that were fitted to the car when new. On the right is a SG-2 and on the left is a SA-2. The last shot is one of some of the handles and escutcheons that I need to reproduce or locate reproductions. These die cast parts were common to Fisher/GM cars of the late twenties.

[TexRiv_63]

Regarding your interior cast parts, I saw a guy at the Chickasha swap meet a couple of weeks ago that had a nice selection for many makes, castings were his only product. I assume they were reproductions but they looked good. I talked to him about a piece for my Pierce but he couldn't help so unfortunately I did not take his card and do not remember his name - perhaps someone else seeing this will have it.

[TexRiv_63]

Regarding your interior cast parts, I saw a guy at the Chickasha swap meet a couple of weeks ago that had a nice selection for many makes, castings were his only product. I assume they were reproductions but they looked good. I talked to him about a piece for my Pierce but he couldn't help so unfortunately I did not take his card and do not remember his name - perhaps someone else seeing this will have it.

[1929Chrysler]

Yes Harry... I am still interested in the name plate. I forgot all about it. How much for two? Just give me the address where to mail the check and I will do that this week. Where can I get a name plate for the generator? Not sure if the starter has one.

For reproduction on the carburetor.. Did you try the place in Australia? (the name escapes me at this time) They have aluminum casts for the U-2 for $1200!!! I actually had a rebuilt U-2 on my car and the car ran Ok. When I put a BB-1 on it made a world of a difference. It started much easier and and idled alot smoother. If your looking for reliability, I don't think you can go wrong with the BB-1

Dan

[1929Chrysler]

Yes Harry... I am still interested in the name plate. I forgot all about it. How much for two? Just give me the address where to mail the check and I will do that this week. Where can I get a name plate for the generator? Not sure if the starter has one.

For reproduction on the carburetor.. Did you try the place in Australia? (the name escapes me at this time) They have aluminum casts for the U-2 for $1200!!! I actually had a rebuilt U-2 on my car and the car ran Ok. When I put a BB-1 on it made a world of a difference. It started much easier and and idled alot smoother. If your looking for reliability, I don't think you can go wrong with the BB-1

Dan

[thomatt12]

Good job on restoring your ride sir. I'm sure it will be a real looker when it's done. Good luck sir!

_________________________

My Autopartswarehouse | Your Autopartswarehouse

[thomatt12]

Good job on restoring your ride sir. I'm sure it will be a real looker when it's done. Good luck sir!

_________________________

My Autopartswarehouse | Your Autopartswarehouse

[HarryJ]

1929Chrysler...Just give me a call, I'll give you my address. I'm in the CCCA and the WPC Club , for phone #; if you don't have these rosters PM me and I'll give you my #. By the way, I am aware of these folks in Austrailia. Their carb would work on my car; however, it is not original and the Carter BB-1 is an excellent carb as I see you know. As to the tags for the generator and starter contact Larry Symons, 14 Coral Rd., Bell Canyon, Calif. 91307. He represents the Southern California Region CCCA and the tags among other things are region projects. thomatt...Thanx for the encouragement...I need it.

[HarryJ]

1929Chrysler...Just give me a call, I'll give you my address. I'm in the CCCA and the WPC Club , for phone #; if you don't have these rosters PM me and I'll give you my #. By the way, I am aware of these folks in Austrailia. Their carb would work on my car; however, it is not original and the Carter BB-1 is an excellent carb as I see you know. As to the tags for the generator and starter contact Larry Symons, 14 Coral Rd., Bell Canyon, Calif. 91307. He represents the Southern California Region CCCA and the tags among other things are region projects. thomatt...Thanx for the encouragement...I need it.

[HarryJ]

Folks.....a quick update. Not a lot of progress as I have been working on the floor boards and I am not a wood worker. I have cut out the toe board and have attempted to make the front floor board. The front floor board is about 30"X16" and is made up of several boards joined together by 4 stringers which are screwed to the bottom of the transverse boards. Upon initial examination I thought these transverse boards were tongue and groove; however, as it turns out they are a type of dovetail tongue and groove. I have never seen this type of construction and it is proving difficult to replicate; as I worked for 4 hours today at a friend of mines' woodworking shop and was unable to successfully reproduce these joints. Why did Fisher not use standard tongue and groove but resort to this sliding dovetail connection?

[HarryJ]

Further update on my progress....For the last several weeks I have had to apply myself to making a living and personal business; however, I have made some progress on the Chrysler. The running boards have been reproduced by a local quite talented sheet metal guy. To look at the running boards it would seem they would be easy to replicate, as they are a series of straight line breaks in a piece of sheet metal. The fact is these were originally roll formed and using a break to reproduce the ribs formed by roll forming is not possible. Turns out the parts have to be fabricated out of several pieces of steel. The gentleman that made these fabricated them in such a skillfull manner you can't tell they are made of several pieces! I have included some pics for your review. Note the original running board used as a pattern to the left of the reproductions. Concurrent with the restoration of the running boards I need to find a source for the running board molding. I have attached a quick drawing of what I am looking for. These moldings are made of aluminum and have five beads along the top edge. If anyone reading this knows were I can find duplicates please let me know. In another two to three weeks the car heads off for the body shop again where I hope to have the last of the sheet metal work completed. When the car gets back to my shop I will deal with several other small body details and then to the engine and chassis.

[Guest f-aschwanden]

Hi Harry

Maybe Scott's Old Auto Rubber in Australia will have this aluminum-pieces. See www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au

He is also offering running board rubbers and shackle insulators for the 1928 Chrysler 72.

[West Peterson]

That trim looks a lot like what Packard used from 1927-1930, but I'm not sure of the dimensions. They're availble here, so you might want to call and get more information.

PACKARD RUNNING BOARD MOLDINGS. For 1927-30 cars. Replace your bent, dented and weathered running board moldings with faithfully reproduced duplicates. All moldings are polished and bright-dip anodized, ready to cut and install. Supplied in 6-1/2-foot lengths only. Price $38,00 per length. Contact Warren H. Carr to order and for s/h costs. Delaware Valley Region CCCA, c/o Warren H. Carr, 39 Cooper Street, Woodbury, NJ 08096. Phone: (856)845-0037. Fax: (856)384-8778. Email: CresseCarr@juno.com.

[TexRiv_63]

Try Restoration Supply Company, www.RestorationStuff.com, they list some ribbed trims in both aluminum and brass.

[HarryJ]

f-aschwanden, West, TexRiv63....Thanks for your responses. The guys in Austrailia have running board rubber that is similiar to mine but no running board moldings that I can see on their web site. West, I had a real great conversation with Warren and he is going to send me a fax of the cross section of the Packard running board trim. Tex as far as Restoration Supply goes; they have some that looks almost exactly like what I need but it is made of brass. By the way I spoke to a guy out in Missouri who advertized in Hemmings under running board trim and he is sending me a catalogue showing what he has to offer. I spoke with him and he seems quite knowledgable on the subject of running board trim.Thanks again!

[HarryJ]

Further info on the running board moldings I am seeking.....This morning I went out to the shop and studied the moldings I am seeking closer. The moldings were originally roll formed (not extruded) and the outside molding has a lower lip that wraps under the lower outer edge of the running board. This outside molding measures 1.305" top to bottom and the top edge (with the 5 beads) measures .656" across. The metal is .0475" thick.

[TexRiv_63]

Harry, are you referring to L & L Antique Auto Trim in MO? Let me know what they can do for you, I will be needing moldings for my Pierce and so far cannot find a match.

[HarryJ]

Don....Yes it is L&L Antique Auto Trim. I am to recieve a catalogue in the near future.

[HarryJ]

Further update on progress....Folks, first let me thank you for your help in my project. Posting my efforts here motivates me to continue on. As of late I am still wrestling with finding the running board molding or possibly having it reproduced. I hope I can find some. On top of this I am facing four projects that will require the help of a machine shop. The first of these is repairing the door stop slides for the four doors. There is a small flat spring that offers resistance to the arm as it moves down the slide groove toward the stop spring. All of these springs are worn out; however they are held on with a special stud which is bradded to the arm. To fix this requires grinding off the stud/brad, re-machining it, reproducing the spring,making a die to spread the end of the stud an reafixing it. Secondly, the gas pedal has an aluminum cover on the end that needs to be replicated. Thirdly, I need some slots and holes machined in the running boards. The fourth item I need machined are some large washers used in conjunction with the body bolts to hold the body down. These items may take some weeks or months to resolve; however, I will get them eventually. Now, I have been working on replacing the front floorboards. It has taken me three attempts to replicate the toe board. Seems like this job would be a simple task; however, when the basic body was rebuilt some years back the space the toe board mounts in was set up with slightly different corner angles and different dimensions from stock, requiring me to make a template of cardboard and fit it several times to get it right (see pics). The front floor boards as I mentioned earlier are made up of up to six individual boards that are tongue and grooved together with dovetail tongue and grooves. These are not easily replicated. I am seriously considering fixing the original(which is 98% there) with a couple of dutchmen; one at either end. Yesterday I did cut out several sets of boards with a square tongue and groove which I could assemble and replicate the floorboard and no one would know the difference; however after studying the situation last night I began to consider adding about a 1" dutchman to either end of the exsisting original. You would not be able to tell this fix was accomplished on the restored car without close examination. Either way progress slowly continues. I have attached some pictures for your review.

[HarryJ]

Floorboards....that's what I have been working on for the last three days. I did restore the windshield header mechanism and study for the next steps in the restoration. Making the floorboards and restoring the floor boards is proving to be another challenge to me. I have decided to replicate the front floorboards and add the dutchmen to the original and see which one works and/or looks best. It took "Mr. Bad Wrench" three attempts to cut out a toe board for this car. I tried at first to replicate an original floorboard...no luck...when the basic body was pieced back together some thirty years ago, it was slightly out of square. The original floorboards would no longer fit; so, when I replicated an original to the thousandth's, it would not fit either. I finally made a display board template and carefully fitted it to the hole/space. Attached please find some nine or ten hours of my time per day for the last three days. Also....Chrysler subscribed to the Fedco anti-theft system. Has anyone restored one of these ID tags? How did you do it, or is their someone out there that can restore one of these plates?

[TexRiv_63]

Harry,

On the Fedco tag, I'm no expert but I have a few tags in my emblem collection. It looks like all yours needs is plating unless there is hidden damage. By the way, L & L does have my Pierce running board molding in their catalog, were they able to help with yours?

[HarryJ]

Don....I can't figure out what metal it was plated with and did it have any paint over the plating ie in the background areas? Another problem is that it is attached to the dash in such a way that it can't be tampered with (anti-theft protection). Can a plater plate only the tag and not the rest of the dash. I'm glad you got your runningboard molding; the guy at L&L has promised a catalogue, but none yet.

[TexRiv_63]

Harry,

Let me dig out the tags I have and have a look. They have been removed but I can't remember what they look like. Do you know how this anti-tamper feature worked?

[L & L Auto Trim]

Harry

I mailed you a catalog on 5/26. Let me know if I can help.

Brad Landoll

[HarryJ]

Thanx Brad....Don, I can't tell how the Fedco tag is attached to the dash. Either from back or front I can't see how it was attached (see attached pic of back). I have also included some pictures of the restored floorboards.

[TexRiv_63]

Harry,

I found the Fedco tag, see pictures below. It appears to be nickel plated although the front is worn. It looks like you could remove yours by grinding off the rivet heads, It looks like that is how mine was removed. I think if you pry on it it will damage the front surface. You would have to reattach with epoxy or ? after refinishing. Hope this helps.

[HarryJ]

Don....Thank you very much! As far as I can tell mine is not rivited on; but I need to study mine more and your pictures more. Note, mine reads WPChrysler, whereas yours reads Chrysler. Is your face plate made of stamped steel and is the metal on the back lead?

[TexRiv_63]

It appears to be solid metal and appears to be plated brass but let me take another look and put a magnet near it, I'll let you know.

[TexRiv_63]

Harry,

The outer metal on the tag is non-magnetic and definitely appears to be brass. The tag is heavy and could be filled with lead, although it seems to be one piece. The two circular bushings on the back are magnetic, assume they are steel. The piece is 3 3/16" wide by 7/8" high and I do not know what year or model it's from. Good Luck!

[HarryJ]

Thanks again Don, by the way, your tag looks to be from a 1928 series "62".

[HarryJ]

I am still working on the floor system of the car. I have assembled the front floor board from several tongue&groove boards as per the original and made a foam core poster board template to fit the space/hole in the car. I took the template and traced it on the above mentioned assembly and mapped out all of the cuts and holes I need to cut out the replacement floorboard. Soon I will cut it out and paint it. The stearing column/brake and clutch pedal floor plate and the shifter/handbrake floorplates are not reproduced; however, I am lucky as they are smooth rubber over a steel core and don,t have a pattern on the face. This allows me to take some 1/16" rubber sheet I acquired from my local hardware supply coupled with cleaning up the original steel cores and fabricate new floorplates.

[HarryJ]

Quick update on progress.....Last Sunday night(about 9:30) I delivered the car to the body man and today I took the last of the body parts to be restored to the stripper for the first step in the restoration process. Two of the required items requiring the skills of a machinist are being delt with.

[AussieLeigh]

Hi, was wondering if you have or know of anyone with a dashboard to suit a closed cabin 72(like the one pictured above)? I was building a roadster but after not being able to find rear panels I have decided to build a coupe instead. I just need a dashboard now.

[HarryJ]

71Pacer....I don't know where to get another dash. By the way, have you ever thought about making the chassis into a two seat runabout? The series "72" was a fast car.

[mikzjr@aol.com]

try jay at ASTEIME@PTD.NET

[AussieLeigh]

Thanks, Jay is looking for a dashboard and the idea of converting the coupe rear into a roadster has crossed my mind many times. I have the standard roadster with the longer chassis which will mean I will have to shorten the chassis by 4 inches. I have a "65" chassis that may work but it's rusted a fair bit. My idea is to make the body I have into a converible coupe. The coupe body I have is actually a 70G which is very close to a 72 except it's 4 inches shorter. I have to make a decision soon so I can start the restoration.

[HarryJ]

71Pacer....How long is your wheelbase? In America only 1 wheelbase length was offered 120.5"

[AussieLeigh]

This is a subjuct of debate that has been going on for ages. My car has a 118 inch wheelbase. The cars were imported as a drivable chassis and the bodies were all made here so I know the Australian cars will be slightly different in appearence. I have been told the Red Head cars were a shorter 114 inch wheelbase. Do you know anything about that?

[HarryJ]

Leigh...This is perplexing. In the resources I have I don't see any 118" or 114" wheelbases on any of the series produced in '27, '28 or '29. (Standard Catalog of Chrysler 1924-1990) I am fairly certain though there would have been only one wheelbase offered in the series"72". This is a question the Chrysler Historical Data Collection could possibly answer. From your picture in this forum it looks like you have the wrong body for the chassis.(ie. Imperial"8o" chassis/"72" body. The cowl (std on all American body styles) and the rear section you have give you 85% of a roadster from what I can see. It would fairly easy for a good sheet metal/body craftsman to fab up a set of doors and sill pieces from patterns to complete a roadster. Note, as is the practice today certain body panels are interchangable between body styles. Have you access to any resources such as parts books or pictures etc. on Chryslers sold in Austrailia in 1928?

[AussieLeigh]

I will measure my wheel base again tonight. Maybe I am wrong.