wdisher Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 Well got it running and still back to turning over slow.Tested battery and generator and both good.I can not figure out HOW tho get the starter off. Can any one tell me how to do that???41 v12 zephyr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul K. Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 Are the battery cables getting hot when you try to start it? Check the cables and clean all the connections. I recently went through the same situation on my 41, the cables were about 5 years old or so and they looked and felt new. Got new 1 gauge ones from NAPA and it turned over faster and for a longer period of time. Also people on this group recommend an Optima 6v battery as it has about 800 cca. I haven't tried it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdisher Posted November 2, 2007 Author Share Posted November 2, 2007 Yea they do get a little warm.it does have good connection and new battery.Worth a shot. Do you happen to know how to get this starter off we are pretty far into it so I might as well get that to.Thanks for the advise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBoz Posted November 3, 2007 Share Posted November 3, 2007 The starter is held in by the two long bolts that go the length of the starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdisher Posted November 3, 2007 Author Share Posted November 3, 2007 i see them but i thought they held the whole starter togeather Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_V12Bill Posted November 3, 2007 Share Posted November 3, 2007 The bolts do hold the starter together. Take them all the way out and then turn them in about two turns. This will hold the base on the starter when you remove it. You must also remove the bracket that is on the end of the top bolt and is also attached to a pan bolt. Disconnect battery before doing anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdisher Posted November 3, 2007 Author Share Posted November 3, 2007 great i will do it tomorrow and have it checked ,thanks for the help , will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no more Posted November 3, 2007 Share Posted November 3, 2007 If the engine is cranking, consistantly is is more than likely not a problem....starter is pretty tough, basic and trouble free.// Tight connections, un-moveable tight are essential.Slow hot cranking is an overtight new motor, advanced ignition timing, low battery voltage (6 volt batt should be at least 6.3 or better static test..be mindful of all posts and internal connections, but make xtra sure solonoid on firewall is clean and real tight. Original type batt cables, twice as thick as you late model 12 volt. "slow" cranking is compared to ?? 6 volt cars with a hot batt and tuned engine fires on first stroke that gets fuel...but these beasts dont crank like a 12 volt honda, by nature they have a kind of "laboring" sound..how long has it been idle, get it hot..change oil 15-40 chk batt...You can adjust voltage at regulator...easy little bend to give it a little more kick..go bucksjboHIo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdisher Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 Got the starter tested and no problems. Also replaced battery cables with 1 gauge. I'm thinking about just changing it over to a 12v system cause I just can't figure it out. It has idled for over fifteen minutes straight and driven twice. Is changing it over hard or should I keep trying??Thanks for the help,Newbie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdisher Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 Solenoid is clean and tight looks as though it has been replaced fairly recently Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdisher Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 Also replaced fuel filter still wont consitantly run! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizzyDale Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 Dear wdisher,Add an additional ground from the head or engine block to the frame.Use the BRAIDED style strap and make sure all contact points on the frame and block are VERY clean.On any Ford or Lincoln 6 volt system i ever worked on GROUNDS were ALWAYS an issue.NO need to ever switch to 12 volt.Keep us posted on your progress.diz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Cullen Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 Keep plugging away, 6V will work fine. Like Zeffer1940 said, they crank slow anyway, you should be able to hear each stroke of the engine, not like a modern engine. Once you work the little bugs out it will give you far more pleasure being original, especially if YOU make it work right. (I've had my 36 for 6-7 years now and just got the fuel gauge working right, the radio is next) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no more Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 I RECENTLY REPLACED MY STARTER BUTTON, ON THE DASH . I HAD INSTALLED REPRO 20 YEARS AGO WITH METAL BUTTON, INCORRECT....SO I RE-REPLACED IT WITH AN ORIGINAL 70 YEAR OLD SWITCH, NEW PLASTIC BUTTON, OLD CONTACTS..IT LOOKS BEAUTIFUL BUT SOME TIMES MUST REDUCE VOLTAGE BECAUSE ONCE IN A WHILE MOANS AND CRANKS SLOWER. IT HAS TO BEE WORN CONTACT IN BUTTON...MAYBE?? MINE IS NOT A PROBLEM.. I SUGGEST YOU COMPARE CRANKING WITH BUTTON ON DASH..OR BUTTON ON BOTTOM OF SOLONIOID..(OR JUMP TERMINALS) IS IT STILL CRANKING SLOW..? JUST A THOUGHT.. ALSO DONT FORGET, YOU CAN BEND TERMINALS IN VOLTAGE REGULATOR TO INCREASE VOLTAGE ...WHAT IS YOUR STATIC VOLTAGE VS CRANKING ??? IS IT DROPPING BELOW 6 VOLTS?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rickomo1 Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 Hey wdisher i am noew confused at where your at on getting running! as for running for a while then going dead. i had a studebaker do the same thing, It was the gas line with pinholes so it would start sucking air. use a differnt source for your gas to eliminate this aspect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdisher Posted November 15, 2007 Author Share Posted November 15, 2007 Will try the ground wire and a new button hopefully by this weekend thnks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdisher Posted November 22, 2007 Author Share Posted November 22, 2007 Well here is a update..Cleaned the braided ground wire and that looks good..Shorted the solenoid to see about the starter button but still cranked the same which seem better i guess..Replaced the fuel filter after that cause the other one wouldn't stay full..This filter stays full so I assume I x out the fuel pump as a possible problem..So I am foiled again..I am so glad I heard it and rode in it a few times or I would never believe this thing will ever turn over..Thanks for all the continued help.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdisher Posted December 9, 2007 Author Share Posted December 9, 2007 Zeffer1940 has Saved me..He came over to help and had it running in about 15 minutes. Turns out brushes were missing on the ignition coil and it also needed a distributor..He even showed me how to change the oil..The car runs great thanks to him..Thanks Jeff and thanks for everybody that helped all these months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdisher Posted December 9, 2007 Author Share Posted December 9, 2007 Now it on to finding a few body parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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