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Mike Cullen

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  1. I'd be willing to bet that many of the antique car owners here also own bikes of some type or another. I just sold my 64 Panhead that was pretty nice, although I never had it judged. I'd guess that with very little work it would be wearing a National Badge.
  2. In many places the arm/wrist injury was known as a "Ford Fracture" (I've seen it recorded as such in old hospital records)
  3. The one that RM auctions had at Hershey sold for $62.7K
  4. Don't know anything about it, but a coupe project might be fun, since it's not to badly hosed up. http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/cto/840579145.html
  5. Thanks Jake, I really want to keep it anyway. I hate to spend the ebay fees for a reserve, etc just to satisfy my curiousity, but I guess maybe I'll have to. I know that it's not reasonable to expect stupid money like the high profile auctions, but I'll have to be sure that the reserve is high enough that I won't resent selling it if someone decides that they have to buy it. It does have a lot going for it, being a 36. Lower production, flat Ford style dash, unmolested, AACA 1st. (Jr.) in 07, etc. Worst case situation: no bids, I'll pay the listing fees and still own a great car!
  6. The M-15 pump I got from Alan and installed in my 36 at overhaul about 5 years ago (had to remove extra baffle from bottom of pan and adjust pickup depth as Peecher mentioned) is the best thing I ever did. It holds great oil pressure instantly, and even stays above 40 psi hot, over 30 psi hot at slow idle. Even with the solid non-adjustable lifters, 10W40 oil takes up enough slack to keep the valvetrain almost totally silent. I was really surprised at how quiet that HV12 idles!
  7. I take my 36 sedan out frequently, weekend fun trips, etc. usually 50-100 miles over the weekend. Several times a year I drive to functions 100-200 miles away, no problem. (So far, I've never been stranded with it, delayed once for a flat tire, ran out of gas a couple times before I fixed the gauge.) The only thing I worry about is getting stranded for something simple that I could fix, but don't want to carry the parts or tools to do it. I figure that if I have troubles on the road, I can get the car to a safe place, and go fetch it with a trailer the next day if it's too far to retrieve the same day.
  8. I'm not hurting to sell it, nor am I upside down with it. (I've had it quite a while, bought it right, and haven't gone crazy throwing money at it) I'll likely just keep driving it, touching up little things as I can and enjoy it. Even a Brewster Green car in Southwest Florida isn't too hot as long as you park in the shade, and when you are out, just keep moving. The only reason I'm even considering selling is to make room for a black era T roadster or touring car and maybe another project bike. I really want to step back into the slow lane for a while.
  9. I've been watching the prices on Zephyrs for a while now. It doesn't seem like there are many early (36 and 37) models changing hands. I've been thinking long and hard about parting with my 36 Sedan, but by what I've seen, the market for the Sedans, especially the early ones is soft, not necessarily due to the cars themselves, but only because there are so few good ones that hit the market. I really love the car, and should keep it, but I'm finding that I drive it less and less, although it runs great and never gives me any trouble at all. Any opinions on the desireability of early sedans? (at least the hotrodders don't want them to chop up!)
  10. New York calls it "None of your business, due to Privacy concerns" As do many other states.
  11. Prefer open car, runner or minor project, as complete as possible. A 20-25 touring or runabout- older restoration would be perfect (Florida is not really the best for closed cars, especially in the summer.) If it's earlier, a non-electric start car is OK too. Not looking to make a modernized- upgraded driver, just a plain old T. Don't want anything rare or an early brass car. A "Bitsa this, bitsa that" car is OK too, as long as it has good paper so I can get it titled and legal for the road. I've owned all sorts of cars, but have decided that a T to tinker with and putt around running errands etc. will be a blast. I just want to end up with a driver, not a show car or trailer queen. Looking to trade an outstanding Victory V92C motorcycle. (value of bike around $6K) PM me for pictures and particulars on the bike. I'd consider a speedster, hack, or whatever as well. Just trying to move over into the slow lane for a while.
  12. Feel free to "double clutch" I doubt that it will make any difference. My 36 shifts fine either way. I doubt that it will "save" any wear on the transmission, as long as your normal shifting is gentle and positive, it drops right in as well as any manual I've ever driven. For the most part I think we drivers of older cars pay more attention to the sounds our cars make and find the "sweet spots" for shifting anyway. You get to learn your particular car and it becomes second nature as to when the gears will engage perfectly and silently.
  13. I tend to agree with you Cecil, it does look like a good starting point, and if you like the early bodystyle, this would be a good one. It looks to be intact, and doesn't seem to be sagging, so perhaps the floors aren't too awful bad. It also has the heater and radio, which aren't easy to find. The 37 grille is not a problem, especially since the blue 36 badge is there. 36 is lower production than the 37, and has the flat dash similar to a Ford. The right person might pay around $10K, but I'd guess closer to $6-7K. It would take twice that just to make it a driver. I saw a 36 4 door, a soft #2 go at Kruse West Palm Beach for $40K last year. So there is a market for the 4 door, but not like the coupe-sedan. Without checking, I think the production of 36 was about 12k 4 door sedans, and 2500 2 door coupe-sedans, no other styles. There are about 30-35 36s in the registry.
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