Mike Cullen

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Everything posted by Mike Cullen

  1. I'd be willing to bet that many of the antique car owners here also own bikes of some type or another. I just sold my 64 Panhead that was pretty nice, although I never had it judged. I'd guess that with very little work it would be wearing a National Badge.
  2. In many places the arm/wrist injury was known as a "Ford Fracture" (I've seen it recorded as such in old hospital records)
  3. The one that RM auctions had at Hershey sold for $62.7K
  4. Don't know anything about it, but a coupe project might be fun, since it's not to badly hosed up. http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/cto/840579145.html
  5. Thanks Jake, I really want to keep it anyway. I hate to spend the ebay fees for a reserve, etc just to satisfy my curiousity, but I guess maybe I'll have to. I know that it's not reasonable to expect stupid money like the high profile auctions, but I'll have to be sure that the reserve is high enough that I won't resent selling it if someone decides that they have to buy it. It does have a lot going for it, being a 36. Lower production, flat Ford style dash, unmolested, AACA 1st. (Jr.) in 07, etc. Worst case situation: no bids, I'll pay the listing fees and still own a great car!
  6. The M-15 pump I got from Alan and installed in my 36 at overhaul about 5 years ago (had to remove extra baffle from bottom of pan and adjust pickup depth as Peecher mentioned) is the best thing I ever did. It holds great oil pressure instantly, and even stays above 40 psi hot, over 30 psi hot at slow idle. Even with the solid non-adjustable lifters, 10W40 oil takes up enough slack to keep the valvetrain almost totally silent. I was really surprised at how quiet that HV12 idles!
  7. I take my 36 sedan out frequently, weekend fun trips, etc. usually 50-100 miles over the weekend. Several times a year I drive to functions 100-200 miles away, no problem. (So far, I've never been stranded with it, delayed once for a flat tire, ran out of gas a couple times before I fixed the gauge.) The only thing I worry about is getting stranded for something simple that I could fix, but don't want to carry the parts or tools to do it. I figure that if I have troubles on the road, I can get the car to a safe place, and go fetch it with a trailer the next day if it's too far to retrieve the same day.
  8. I'm not hurting to sell it, nor am I upside down with it. (I've had it quite a while, bought it right, and haven't gone crazy throwing money at it) I'll likely just keep driving it, touching up little things as I can and enjoy it. Even a Brewster Green car in Southwest Florida isn't too hot as long as you park in the shade, and when you are out, just keep moving. The only reason I'm even considering selling is to make room for a black era T roadster or touring car and maybe another project bike. I really want to step back into the slow lane for a while.
  9. I've been watching the prices on Zephyrs for a while now. It doesn't seem like there are many early (36 and 37) models changing hands. I've been thinking long and hard about parting with my 36 Sedan, but by what I've seen, the market for the Sedans, especially the early ones is soft, not necessarily due to the cars themselves, but only because there are so few good ones that hit the market. I really love the car, and should keep it, but I'm finding that I drive it less and less, although it runs great and never gives me any trouble at all. Any opinions on the desireability of early sedans? (at least the hotrodders don't want them to chop up!)
  10. New York calls it "None of your business, due to Privacy concerns" As do many other states.
  11. Prefer open car, runner or minor project, as complete as possible. A 20-25 touring or runabout- older restoration would be perfect (Florida is not really the best for closed cars, especially in the summer.) If it's earlier, a non-electric start car is OK too. Not looking to make a modernized- upgraded driver, just a plain old T. Don't want anything rare or an early brass car. A "Bitsa this, bitsa that" car is OK too, as long as it has good paper so I can get it titled and legal for the road. I've owned all sorts of cars, but have decided that a T to tinker with and putt around running errands etc. will be a blast. I just want to end up with a driver, not a show car or trailer queen. Looking to trade an outstanding Victory V92C motorcycle. (value of bike around $6K) PM me for pictures and particulars on the bike. I'd consider a speedster, hack, or whatever as well. Just trying to move over into the slow lane for a while.
  12. Feel free to "double clutch" I doubt that it will make any difference. My 36 shifts fine either way. I doubt that it will "save" any wear on the transmission, as long as your normal shifting is gentle and positive, it drops right in as well as any manual I've ever driven. For the most part I think we drivers of older cars pay more attention to the sounds our cars make and find the "sweet spots" for shifting anyway. You get to learn your particular car and it becomes second nature as to when the gears will engage perfectly and silently.
  13. I tend to agree with you Cecil, it does look like a good starting point, and if you like the early bodystyle, this would be a good one. It looks to be intact, and doesn't seem to be sagging, so perhaps the floors aren't too awful bad. It also has the heater and radio, which aren't easy to find. The 37 grille is not a problem, especially since the blue 36 badge is there. 36 is lower production than the 37, and has the flat dash similar to a Ford. The right person might pay around $10K, but I'd guess closer to $6-7K. It would take twice that just to make it a driver. I saw a 36 4 door, a soft #2 go at Kruse West Palm Beach for $40K last year. So there is a market for the 4 door, but not like the coupe-sedan. Without checking, I think the production of 36 was about 12k 4 door sedans, and 2500 2 door coupe-sedans, no other styles. There are about 30-35 36s in the registry.
  14. As for "everyday drivers" pretty much any post war car, properly maintained would be acceptable for routine use. Of course if I lived in a big city, or highly populated area such as DC, NY, etc. it would be a different story. My 36 Lincoln is a pretty good example and illustrates the items of concern. #1- lighting: The headlights aren't sealed beams, but are fine. Of course it's important to not overdrive your lights, regardless of whether it's a modern or an oldie. The taillights are small, and getting rear ended is a concern because many other drivers are inattentive. Another issue with the taillights is that there are no signal lights, today's drivers are clueless about hand signals, I've overcome some of my worries with this by tapping the brake pedal rapidly 5-6 times prior to making a hand signal in order to get the other guys attention. #2- Brakes: No problem at all, I have cable brakes and they stop the car fine, of course they have to be properly adjusted and you have to realize that your stopping distances are not as short as modern cars with disc ABS systems. In a panic stop situation you can stop it pretty well, the key is to not put yourself into a situation where a panic stop is necessary. #3- Tires: not an issue, properly inflated bias tires are fine, as long as the suspension system is in good shape. #4- Speed: Even though it's a V12, it's no hot rod. In the era when my car was new, the average travel speeds likely were in the 30-40 MPH range. I can cruise all day in the 50-60 MPH range, but with a change of rear end gears, or a Columbia rear axle, I would have no trouble running 60-70 on the interstates. In my opinion, higher speeds like that for extended periods of time tend to put you in the range where other shortcomings are amplified such as brakes, lighting, tires, etc. So I stick with the surface roads and the 50-60 range. #5- Economy: At 50 MPH, even with a V12, I get 14-15 MPG, better than I got with my modern 97 F150 with a V6, and overdrive. The bottom line, would my Zephyr be a practical commuter car, every day use? no. It's fine for occasional use, and weekend fun driving, etc. A slightly newer car with hydraulic brakes, bigger taillights, signal lights, sealed beam headlights and a set of radials would be fine for an everyday, even commuter car here, maybe not in a bigger city but here a post war car properly maintained would be fine. I've been watching for that kind of car for that exact purpose for a while now, since I only have a motorcycle, and the rainy season is coming. The idea that older cars are not safe and must be upgraded to modern standards is a justification to build a hot rod. If you want a hot rod, build one. Driving a vintage car on a regular basis requires that the driver posess a higher level of skill and maturity. If you don't posess the skills or are too lazy to pay attention all the time, build a hotrod, or drive a modern car.
  15. Just a small chunk of meat, it's healed quite nicely now.
  16. Nice work again Peter! I'm still screwing around with the vacuum wipers in my 36, they work, but not quite right yet. A warning to anyone else who is fiddling with the vacuum wiper motors, especially with the motor installed and reaching under the dash blindly to try the adjustments. A vacuum motor can bite, It's amazing how much torque that bugger has, and how tightly it can grab your finger if you aren't paying attention! (at least so I've heard!)
  17. The reason I suggested the S10 frame is that it is a simple solid frame that can be stretched or shortened to come out where you need it. Also most GM running gear can be used, and selected for the proper tread to make it work. Hence, from junkyard parts you can have a frame, front and rear suspension, juice disc brakes, open driveline, power steering etc. Just to be different, maybe an in-line 6 cylinder like a Ford 300 would fit nicely in place of the narrow V12, and they have plenty of grunt to push the Zephyr around well. (especially if you use a 240 head, better cam, intake and headers) Without grafting your upper body onto a donor, you will be investing way more labor and money into this than can be justified. This body, IMO, sitting on late model running gear, will have the good looking lines of a Zephyr, but be more driveable on a daily basis. It won't be a "restored Zephyr" but it won't be a far-out custom either. A sort of practical Zephyr-bodied driver/tour car. Just my opinion, I'm somewhat cheap, so I'd do the budget build. If I was doing a full restoration, I'd find a car with better basic structure to start with.
  18. Not a bad looking sedan. Good brakes would turn it into a fun driver for a fair buck. Cheaper than a good second hand car, and a lot more fun.
  19. You need bug screens like that down here during love-bug season!
  20. Did the seller give you a big wet kiss before he handed over the title? As much as I hate to say it, you might be better off starting with a chebby S10 frame, and just using what is left of the body shell for the basis of a custom. IMO, you don't have enough left to restore this to stock without having another car as a 2 into one deal. As beautiful as a Zephyr coupe is, sometimes you are stuck trying to polish a turd.
  21. That sure is a great starting point. IMO, that is one of the most beautiful car bodies ever made. The proportion and smooth curves from the roof to the rear bumper are incredible! The guy actually suggests that it would make a good hotrod..... NOOOOOOOOO!
  22. Are you sure it's not 8BA? that would be a 49 and up Ford 239, a solid flattie. Not as hot as the Mercury version, but still a very good late V8.