John Gelfer

I could use it for my T. I sent you a PM.

I'm trying to find the TDC mark on my flywheel. I was expecting a small punch mark, arrow, or something like that. What I see is a bunch of numbers that don't seem to correspond to degrees. Some are odd, and some are even. So far I have seen 15, 17, 18, 27, 36, and 45. It looks like the 45 is TDC to me, but I'm far from certain. All the numbers have a vertical line between the two digits that is taller then the digits. I'm viewing these numbers through a little peep hole. Since it's an L-head engine, it is pretty hard to see when the valves are closed and the piston is at TDC. Any ideas on this numbering system? BTW, it is an 8 cylinder Lycoming 226 cu. in. engine in a 1928 Gardner.

Thanks for the help. The picture is too small. I tried to save it and expand it, but the resolution would not work. Could you scan it at a higher resolution, or save it as a pdf file?

I have specs for how the points are supposed to be set in the Delco Remy 651B distributor in my 1928 Gardner. I can't locate an antique point synchronizer tool, but I think I can improvise a degree wheel to get the right setting. Specs say is should fire at 6 degrees BTDC, and be 45 degrees apart. If I set them on the high spot of the cam, it will be fireing late, because it fires as soon as the points open, right? Do I just eyeball when they start to open, or is there an exact way to set them? Thanks in advance for your help.

I think if it was placed in a plating tank, and the current were reversed, the plating would come off nicely, and you wouldn't have to take it apart. Ask your local plating shop.

I've not had any luck on the usual license plate sites with these. Anyone out there have either of these Wisconsin plates? Many thanks. John:)

Wow what a beauty! Congratulations on being the next caretaker of this fine machine. You are a lucky man. Enjoy the ride.

I'm curious about the Fedders patent for automobile radiators. The plate on my 1928 Gardner radiator says:Fedders Manufacturing Company Buffalo, NY Patented April 4th 1911. From what I read, Fedders started out with gas and oil tanks, then got into radiators. This was way before the air conditioning business started. I think they made the radiators for Packard, and quite a few other makes.

Is there a source for various length and diameter springs? I need some pedal return springs for the brakes on my '28 Gardner. The springs also pull the mechanical brake rods back when you release the pedal.

I'm confused by the chart from Lubriplate. They list viscosity at various temps. What is the standard temp that everyone rates viscosity at? The chart at Restoration Supply is quite different for the same product, so I can't make sense out of which is correct.

Thanks everyone. Looks like the consensus is 600 WT oil. I will order some today.

I have a 1928 Gardner. I"m not sure what weight oil to use in the gearbox and differential. I know the Model T's used the very heavy 600 wt steam engine oil for the rear and the gearbox ran in engine oil, but this transmission is pretty far removed from the older model T.

I have a 2004 Volvo XC-70 station wagon I need hauled from Nashport OH (about 60 miles east of Columbus) to Milwaukee, WI. My brother is getting a new one and I am buying the '04. You can call me at 414 803-9528. My email is gelferjml@earthlink.net. John Gelfer

Does anyone know who invented this and when? The vacuum advance may have come along very close after this one. I was wondering on which car it first appeared. OK auto history people, let's have it....

I wish I could get a nice restoration at no expense. Did the magical elves to it after you went to sleep at night?

There are many T experts at the MTFCA site. Try there for some good advice.

The later griffins are more stylized. The earlier ones were more "realistic", if that makes any sense.

The 1928 Dyke's Auto manual has excellent info on trouble shooting the Stewart vacuum tanks.

Scions and Honda Elements are more like "toasters", and that is what I call them.

Is it true that a 120 wt oil will make for quieter shifting than 90 wt?

I believe you do have to double clutch. Clutch once to pull it out of gear, and into neutral. Clutch again and push it into the next gear. Takes a little practice. Upshifting is much easier than a smooth downshift, at least for me. I just got babtized in the "double clutch shuffle" this summer when I got my 1928 Gardner running.

Yes, it is pipe thread. Plumbing supply or hardware store will have it. There is a special fuel proof petcock lube (keeps them from dripping, and also prevents binding up) which also works as a non-hardening gasket compound for fuel related items. It is mainly used in aviation, but I think it is for sale from some of the antique car parts vendors.

May I say "BOGUS!" Wow I can't believe the XXXX people try to pull on the public.

My late father-in-law, Jack Pausewang (AKA "Mr. Cord") purchased an unrestored 1937 Cord Beverly Sedan from Austin in 1968. He finished it in a maroon color. When I got married in 1977, he chauffered us to the wedding in that car. What a beauty! It was sold two years ago, after he died.

Wow, I am impressed with both your interpolation and drafting skills. The figuring out and detective work required for this hobby, can be frustrating, but using your brain is good, and when you finally get it RIGHT, it sure is a wonderful feeling. I'll let you know how it works out.