John Gelfer

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Everything posted by John Gelfer

  1. I have specs for how the points are supposed to be set in the Delco Remy 651B distributor in my 1928 Gardner. I can't locate an antique point synchronizer tool, but I think I can improvise a degree wheel to get the right setting. Specs say is should fire at 6 degrees BTDC, and be 45 degrees apart. If I set them on the high spot of the cam, it will be fireing late, because it fires as soon as the points open, right? Do I just eyeball when they start to open, or is there an exact way to set them? Thanks in advance for your help.
  2. I think if it was placed in a plating tank, and the current were reversed, the plating would come off nicely, and you wouldn't have to take it apart. Ask your local plating shop.
  3. I've not had any luck on the usual license plate sites with these. Anyone out there have either of these Wisconsin plates? Many thanks. John:)
  4. Wow what a beauty! Congratulations on being the next caretaker of this fine machine. You are a lucky man. Enjoy the ride.
  5. I'm curious about the Fedders patent for automobile radiators. The plate on my 1928 Gardner radiator says:Fedders Manufacturing Company Buffalo, NY Patented April 4th 1911. From what I read, Fedders started out with gas and oil tanks, then got into radiators. This was way before the air conditioning business started. I think they made the radiators for Packard, and quite a few other makes.
  6. Is there a source for various length and diameter springs? I need some pedal return springs for the brakes on my '28 Gardner. The springs also pull the mechanical brake rods back when you release the pedal.
  7. I'm confused by the chart from Lubriplate. They list viscosity at various temps. What is the standard temp that everyone rates viscosity at? The chart at Restoration Supply is quite different for the same product, so I can't make sense out of which is correct.
  8. Thanks everyone. Looks like the consensus is 600 WT oil. I will order some today.
  9. I have a 1928 Gardner. I"m not sure what weight oil to use in the gearbox and differential. I know the Model T's used the very heavy 600 wt steam engine oil for the rear and the gearbox ran in engine oil, but this transmission is pretty far removed from the older model T.
  10. I have a 2004 Volvo XC-70 station wagon I need hauled from Nashport OH (about 60 miles east of Columbus) to Milwaukee, WI. My brother is getting a new one and I am buying the '04. You can call me at 414 803-9528. My email is John Gelfer
  11. Does anyone know who invented this and when? The vacuum advance may have come along very close after this one. I was wondering on which car it first appeared. OK auto history people, let's have it....
  12. I wish I could get a nice restoration at no expense. Did the magical elves to it after you went to sleep at night?
  13. There are many T experts at the MTFCA site. Try there for some good advice.
  14. The later griffins are more stylized. The earlier ones were more "realistic", if that makes any sense.
  15. The 1928 Dyke's Auto manual has excellent info on trouble shooting the Stewart vacuum tanks.
  16. Scions and Honda Elements are more like "toasters", and that is what I call them.
  17. Is it true that a 120 wt oil will make for quieter shifting than 90 wt?
  18. I believe you do have to double clutch. Clutch once to pull it out of gear, and into neutral. Clutch again and push it into the next gear. Takes a little practice. Upshifting is much easier than a smooth downshift, at least for me. I just got babtized in the "double clutch shuffle" this summer when I got my 1928 Gardner running.
  19. Yes, it is pipe thread. Plumbing supply or hardware store will have it. There is a special fuel proof petcock lube (keeps them from dripping, and also prevents binding up) which also works as a non-hardening gasket compound for fuel related items. It is mainly used in aviation, but I think it is for sale from some of the antique car parts vendors.
  20. May I say "BOGUS!" Wow I can't believe the XXXX people try to pull on the public.
  21. My late father-in-law, Jack Pausewang (AKA "Mr. Cord") purchased an unrestored 1937 Cord Beverly Sedan from Austin in 1968. He finished it in a maroon color. When I got married in 1977, he chauffered us to the wedding in that car. What a beauty! It was sold two years ago, after he died.
  22. Wow, I am impressed with both your interpolation and drafting skills. The figuring out and detective work required for this hobby, can be frustrating, but using your brain is good, and when you finally get it RIGHT, it sure is a wonderful feeling. I'll let you know how it works out.
  23. Bob's Antique Buick parts has the kits for about $20. They have the gasket, machine screws for the tank top, and new brass springs for the air/vacuum valve levers. My tank was quite rusty inside, so I gave it the POR-15 tank treatment with a foam brush. Use some good gasket compound when sealing it up, and don't over tighten the bolts, or you can crack the casting of the tank top. Check the float for pin holes too. Just clean 'em, seal em' up and they work like a champ.
  24. Yes, I think Keiser is correct. From what I remember from getting intimate with the underside of the car, that piece does look a lot like what I think was there. I'm going to contact a friend in St. Paul who has a similar car to see if we can fabricate a copy. Where did your drawing come from, Keiser? I hope it is a part that is available some where.
  25. I took a nice shake down cruise last week in my 1928 Gardner. It ran fine, but on the way home, the brake pedal went almost to the floor, with very little braking going on. I crawled underneath today and discovered why. A coupling that connects the brake rods for the front wheels is missing. I have two balls at the end of shafts that are just hanging in air, instead of being coupled together. I have included photos below. Any idea on how to come up with a part to fix this?