John Gelfer

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Everything posted by John Gelfer

  1. I think the rod and crank bearings are a cast babbit material. You can't just drop in an insert bearing. They have to be poured, and then line bored to fit.
  2. Measure the distance between the shaft and housing. You may need something fatter than plumber's twine. McMaster Carr has quite a few sizes of braided graphite impregnated pump packing. The right size packing makes a big difference.
  3. Looks like I figured this one out. After taking out the plug, I figured out it was the same size as a 1/8" NPT grease fitting, so I screwed one in and gave it a few pumps of grease. I figure this is for the Bendix to slide and engage the pinion gear with the flywheel. I hope this was the right thing to do.
  4. I have a Delco starter on the '28 Gardner. There is an oil cup on the front end, and a plug on the rear. Does regular chassis lube need to go in the Bendix end of the starter?
  5. I'm a sucker for brass cars. Add loud , open and fast, and I'm gone. I'll take a bright red 1914 Mercer 35-J Raceabout if you please.
  6. Anyone out there have either one of these?
  7. There may have been a little tube sticking out of that hole to attach a vacuum hose to for the windshield wipers.
  8. It was a 1939 Chrysler with the rear floor rusted out. That was 1952, and it lasted until 1956 when the engine blew and my folks bought a new Plymouth. The Chrysler was towed to a field where an advertising sign was attached to it. I think it sat in the field for another 10 years before it disappeared.
  9. It's best to get help from someone with experience using the rim spreader tool. It is too easy to put a nasty bend in the rim when expanding them back to size. I've seen a few messed up split rim wheels because of this.
  10. Most of the plumber's packing is pretty skinny string type packing, and meant for faucet packing. McMaster Carr makes the braided graphite rope in several widths. Measure the gap between the shaft, and cavity. It's easy to figure by measuring the hole in the pack nut to the outside thread. Order the nearest size packing, grease the shaft and inner housing, and put as many turns of the rope around as you can get and still have a few threads to start the packing nut. McMaster-Carr
  11. The E 10 fuel does not seem to matter in Model T's, but I suspect that is due to the very low (3.5 to 1?) compression ratio. It may be carb design too. I run an NH Holley carb, and always fill up with the 87 octane Mobil gas. The E 10 will cause problems in an old fuel system by dissolving varnish clinging to the inside of an old tank. Had an old tank cleaned out at a radiator shop, and it still clogged the carb up. Marine Clean took the old varnish off real nice.
  12. My plater told me to use silver polish. He said that brass polish is too harsh for nickle.
  13. Thanks for the help everyone. I originally thought I had carburetor problems, but it seems that "operator error" was causing the trouble. I will advance the spark after starting and see how it runs.
  14. Yes, that's what we were saying...retard it for starting. The question was should I advance it after starting, since it has automatic advance anyway. I see the logic in what Nickelroadster was saying, and will try pushing the advance after starting.
  15. I've never had overheating problems, like Model T's are prone to when running with a retarded spark, but I have had a lot of carbon on my spark plugs, and low fuel economy. Can running without sufficient advance cause these problems?
  16. I'm used to manual advance from driving a Model T. My '28 Gardner has manual advance, but also has centrifugal advance that kicks in at 650 RPM. I normally start and run it with the manual advance fully retarded and leave it alone. Should I be advancing it after starting?
  17. I used Teflon in my Model T pump and it worked for a few years with no leaks. I'm told it won't last as long as the graphite impregnated rope packing. Teflon does not compress much. BTW, the model A packing is too skinny for my application. I ordered the right stuff from McMaster Carr.
  18. It would help to know what brand/model of distributor. Single or dual points? 4 or 8 lobe cam? Did Horch make the motor?
  19. Just pulled the leaking water pump off my 1928 Gardner. I had tried to tighten the gland nut, but it didn't help. I dug out the old stuff, and found molten lead had been poured over the string packing forming two lead/string donuts around the shaft. The gland nut has 1/2" of thread, while the hole is 15/16" deep. That's a lot of space to fill. Should I just use a lot of the 1/4" compression packing to fill the hole?
  20. Thanks for the help! The "bubble method" worked very well to find the exact TDC. I attached a hose to the fitting in #1 cylinder, and dipped it in some soapy water. My wife watched the bubble grow while I cranked over the engine with my McGyvered starting handle. After several tries, we were certain where TDC was. The number on the flywheel in the peep hole was 18. I don't understand the number, but that's what it is. Maybe they meant 1 of 8?. That still doesn't explain the other numbers.
  21. I figured it out using the "bubble method". I put a fitting in #1 cylinder, attached a hose, and put some soap suds on the end of the hose. As it came up on compression, I watched the size of the bubble growing. If you go to far, the exhaust valve opens and the bubble deflates. After several tries, I was sure where TDC was. The number 18 was showing on the flywheel peep hole. This still makes no sense, but at least I now know where the TDC mark is.
  22. I know this motor was used in the 1927 Auburn model 8-77. The 8 cylinder Lycoming 4HM, 4H, GS & GT were used in other Auburns from '26 through '29. I have the GT in my 1928 Gardner. I'm trying to locate the TDC mark on the flywheel through the peep hole near the starter at the rear of the engine. I'm seeing many numbers on the flywheel like 15, 27, 18, 27, 36, 45. There may be more, but it seems like TDC is where the 45 shows up. Isn't there supposed to be a punch mark or arrow to indicate TDC? I want to make sure I have it right.
  23. I could use it for my T. I sent you a PM.
  24. I'm trying to find the TDC mark on my flywheel. I was expecting a small punch mark, arrow, or something like that. What I see is a bunch of numbers that don't seem to correspond to degrees. Some are odd, and some are even. So far I have seen 15, 17, 18, 27, 36, and 45. It looks like the 45 is TDC to me, but I'm far from certain. All the numbers have a vertical line between the two digits that is taller then the digits. I'm viewing these numbers through a little peep hole. Since it's an L-head engine, it is pretty hard to see when the valves are closed and the piston is at TDC. Any ideas on this numbering system? BTW, it is an 8 cylinder Lycoming 226 cu. in. engine in a 1928 Gardner.
  25. Thanks for the help. The picture is too small. I tried to save it and expand it, but the resolution would not work. Could you scan it at a higher resolution, or save it as a pdf file?