John Gelfer

Bob's Antique Buick parts has the kits for about $20. They have the gasket, machine screws for the tank top, and new brass springs for the air/vacuum valve levers. My tank was quite rusty inside, so I gave it the POR-15 tank treatment with a foam brush. Use some good gasket compound when sealing it up, and don't over tighten the bolts, or you can crack the casting of the tank top. Check the float for pin holes too. Just clean 'em, seal em' up and they work like a champ.

Yes, I think Keiser is correct. From what I remember from getting intimate with the underside of the car, that piece does look a lot like what I think was there. I'm going to contact a friend in St. Paul who has a similar car to see if we can fabricate a copy. Where did your drawing come from, Keiser? I hope it is a part that is available some where.

I took a nice shake down cruise last week in my 1928 Gardner. It ran fine, but on the way home, the brake pedal went almost to the floor, with very little braking going on. I crawled underneath today and discovered why. A coupling that connects the brake rods for the front wheels is missing. I have two balls at the end of shafts that are just hanging in air, instead of being coupled together. I have included photos below. Any idea on how to come up with a part to fix this?

Did 20's or 30's Desotos have a three tab gas cap? I need one where the opening in the fill neck is 1 5/8 wide. Every one I see had only two tabs. Thanks!

I'm having trouble finding a simple chromed three tab gas cap for my 1928 Gardner. The fill pipe opening is 1 and 5/8" wide. I'm sure some other cars used the 3 tab caps way back when. I can get a two tab cap on, but it doesn't stay on well, and I just lost another one. Any ideas? Thanks.

With the car at idle, remove the plug on top of the tank. You should feel good suction with your finger over the hole. There should be a screen on top where the fuel line connects from the main tank. Check it too. Also try removing fuel supply line at top of tank and blowing back into the gas tank. It should gurgle air in the main tank. If it's clogged, that's your problem. The 1928 Dykes book has the best info on trouble shooting the Stewart system. My fuel line was clogged with little bits of sealer I used to put the fuel sender on the main tank. I thought for sure that I had problems with the vac tank, but it was further down the line.

Do 1920's Buick gas caps have three evenly spaced lugs on the back to lock them in place? I don't have a Buick, but I need a gas cap with 3 lugs on the back, not two, which is what most seem to have. I'm trying to fit it on the tank of my 1928 Gardner.

I finally got my 1928 Gardner on the road. It is a real thrill to drive. I can upshift fine and not cause any grinding by double clutching. I can't downshift from 3rd to 2nd though. I would appreciate any tips. By the way it's a Borg & Beck 3 speed mated to a Lycoming 226 cu in 8 in line. Thanks!

Change the oil first. Then squirt about 1 tablespoon of MMO or ATF into each cylinder and let it sit for about a week. This may help prevent broken rings if they are stuck. Next, pull the center wire from the distributor to prevent ignition, although it is not likely to happen. Let it crank for about 30 seconds and you should be OK. Even on a running vehicle, you always need a bit of oil in the jugs before running a compression test.

Thanks Ivan. It is a Delco Remy 658B distributor. It has the 8 lobe cam, so the points need to be synchronized.

Ooops! I gave erroneous info on the engine model. It is not GT, it is the Lycoming 4HM. I just found a Dykes that shows 10 dgrees AT for the Auburn version, but it says 1" AT for the Gardner, and the same engine was used in the Elcar which shows TDC for timing. Is there a way to calculate the 1" into degrees? These engines were obviously set up a bit differently by the various car manufacturers.

My '28 Gardner has a Lycoming engine, and a Borg & Beck transmission.

I have a Lycoming GT engine, 226 cu in 8 cyl in-line engine. It was used in the 1928 Auburn model 77. It also was used in the '28 Gardner model 75 which I own. Is there any spec for the dwell on the points? The only info I have is the gap setting of .018" to .022". I think the dwell angle would be a more precise way to set them, if someone has calculated what it should be. I'm not sure of the specs to set the timing either. Do I need a 6 volt dwell meter and timing light? Any help would be appreciated.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

I have a Lycoming GT engine, 226 cu in 8 cyl in-line engine. It was used in the 1928 Auburn model 77. It also was used in the '28 Gardner model 75 which I own. Is there any spec for the dwell on the points? The only info I have is the gap setting of .018" to .022". I think the dwell angle would be a more precise way to set them, if someone has calculated what it should be. I'm not sure how to set the timing either. Any help would be appreciated.

Are Model A Ford spark plugs 7/8" 18 TPI? I'm trying to hook up a compression tester for my 1928 Gardner. If they are the same as Model A's, then I can get a 7/8" to 14 mm adapter from Snyders.

Any of the Model T vendors like Snyders, or Macs has the 600W oil by the quart. It costs about $8 a quart.

I read in a post last year something about making sure the "air valve" does not fall out ot the top of the tanks with the older cast tops. Is this a little ball bearing type check valve that drops in the top on the vac. side of the tank? I can't tell from the diagrams available on line. I just put one back together, and may be missing a piece.

All modern testers come with 14mm and 18mm adapters, but none have 1/2" pipe thread, which is what most of us need for antique cars. I tried cutting off the 18mm male, and stuffing a 1/2" hose barb into the hose. It doesn't work! Seems like it should. Any ideas on where to buy one?

My '28 Gardner uses the Alemite pin fittings all around, and there are a ton of them.

Beware of the many brokers who use independent "contractors" who may or may not be any good. I used Federal Express Passport twice to move cars from Florida to Wisconsin, and had very good service both times. They do have their own special vehicles, and the drivers are employees. There are a few other reputable ones out there. My father-in-law used to use Horseless Carriage, and thought they were OK too.

I PITY the fool who would try to repeat such feat. Don't let it get you down Peter. Give your tired brain a much deserved rest. You will slay the dragon another day. Mr. T says hello too.

Hi, I'm in Milwaukee too. A friend of mine's dad works for Valenti Classic Cars in Racine. They farm out their tops to Creative Auto Restyling & Sunroof at the intersection of Hwy 31 & 32. 262 752-9658. Good luck!

Didn't Lycoming build these engines for Duesenberg and others?

Are the ropes made of hair? Sure looks like it.

I laughed pretty hard watching Mr. Stupid get tased off his seat.