bruffsup

real gearheads in the UK, Morris minor, chopped hawgs and Vincent Shadow all at the same meet

I worked in the restoration shop at the Canadian Museum of Science and Technology . The mandate for preservation was 100 years minimum.For motorcycle frames the method was to fill the frames with linseed oil. Probably too expensive for a car frame. If you use that do not leave soaked rags around as they can self ignite.

ALL NEW OLD STOCK. PHOTOS ONLY SHOW PART OF WHAT IS INCLUDED. 52 CAST IRON PISTONS, 170 ALUMINUM PISTONS, 93 BOXES OF RINGS + more not tallied. $500 OR REASONABLE OFFER. INCLUDES THE LARGE COLOURFUL ORIGINAL PEDRICK SIGN ( APPROX. 3' X 2' ) ALSO HAVE A LARGE QUANTITY OF OTHER NEW AND USED PARTS INCLUDING NOS PACKARD VALVES etc. WILL SELL IT ALL CHEAP LOCATED JUST NORTH OF KINGSTON ONTARIO not far from the 1000 islands New York border.

Was that in a movie where George Burns played God? Nice car !

not much to tell other than what I have shown here. I made up some dies to shape the small washers which I brazed in place This was as you can imagine time consuming and in retrospect it might have been easier to silver solder them in place.Any pinholes I filled with Devcon Titanium putty which can withstand 250 degrees F. The company that does powder coating for me turned their furnace down a tad for this as it usually runs at 275 F. The powder was used as a base for the final painting which started with black epoxy primer. Not sure what the final coat was but I will check for you and get back. Thanks for your interest.

Thanks ! It is not perfect but I am happy with it.

Here is how I repaired it. It was lots of work welding in those little plugs! Powder coat base then paint. I am pleased with the results

NEVER under any circumstances use penetrol for this! I tried it on my original paint 1936 Ford fire truck and it removed the paint! I have an original paint 1913 Harley that has remained stable over 35 years ownership with the occasional spraying of WD40.

you are correct and probably worth a try. I was thinking of filling the hollow interior with expanding foam and then shaping the indents beforehand.

This is a huge mystery.No one even in the Lagonda club can tell me how the rim of this steering wheel on my 1934 M45 Lagonda was coated.. The main issue is that the wheel is hollow with holes which when covered in whatever early 'plastic"were used provide finger grips. A top USA steering wheel restoration shop can not help. The chap suggested filling all the indents with bondo and sanding and painting. I thought about using the old "racer" trick of wrapping in cord but feel that is a cop out and I like the original thin feel of the original finish. Restoration companies in the UK will not reveal the secret and I have heard horror stories of year long waits with exorbitant prices so am avoiding that route. I am aware of kits to coat tool handles with plastic but that will obviously not work .

I have used an epoxy primer over the freshly blasted parts . There are some rust pits. Can I safely scuff and apply bondo over the epoxy primer before I put the "chassis saver" on? I have been told to scuff the surface lightly before applying the chassis saver over the epoxy primer.

yes I have decided against powder coating. Now the only decision is to use gloss paint or not. I have just received an email from the owner of a very original car and it had traces of the original gloss BRG on the frame before restoration

Good point and I am trying to find out just for curiosity but I am not fond of the look of flat or satin black.My car was originally light grey and the frame was painted that colour as well. I know this as I have the "works record " cards . I do not like grey and will be painting the body BRG ( British racing green) I have already respoked the wheels and had them powder coated dark red. Interior will be red . I do not care about 100% originality and my dream is to just drive and enjoy the car, not have it judged. I will post here what I find out .

all the frame cross members are bolted in place! This model of Lagonda won LeMans in 1934 so it must have been OK ! The only riveting is at the ends of the frame rails where the leaf spring hangers attach and at a couple of other minor points.

here is what I decided on and I opted for the glossy thanks for all your input

I appreciate the advice and have had a recommendation from a local car restorer for a paint similar to POR that he says is very tough and easy to apply. I will complete the sandblasting of the frame rails and begin the process. Thanks very much

For my 1934 Lagonda. I have just about ruled out powder coating . I have heard of some drawbacks . I am not trying to attain a Pebble Beach finish. If anyone would please comment from their experience I would appreciate it. I keep hearing the phrase "epoxy primer" I know this is a big topic. My goal is a finish that is chip resistant, will not allow rust to develop beneath and easy for an amateur to apply . Am I asking for a miracle?

It's really difficult to get pictures on the show field as there are so many people milling about. You did a great job. Thanks.

WOW !

That's a very early V8 ! What make is it?

Thanks for the great photos.What a show! Any Reo Royales? LOL

I don't claim to know everything and I hope that didn't sound too authoritative ! I should have added that I have been playing with vintage motorcycles for over 50 years and have a diverse collection Cheers, Barry PS the tach is a very cool piece never the less

I sold one of these to the National Museum of Science and Technology in Ottawa Ontario back in the 1970's. I recall it was new old stock !

not a chance it is motorcycle.

I would agree TFX is superb. They transported my 1936 Ford 1 1/2 ton panel , a relatively big truck from Ontario to Florida very quickly and efficiently and the loading was in minus 35 degrees in February. I had asked Mackie beforehand and they would not do it, now I am relieved after reading that horror story.