Xander Wildeisen

You would want to make a cart with caster wheels to place the body on. Same flat surface as your frame. Strap up the body and secure it by bolting it down on the cart. You might also consider just parting the body. Investing your time and money in something that has a known value. Will hit a point where you are going backwards in something that you do not want.

No doubt that is the best way of going.

So much depends on what you are going to do with the body once it is removed. If you are going to take it all apart for restoration. Do it now on the frame. If you are wanting to remove it, and then place it back on the frame, you have a few choices. Again, depends on what you want to do with the body while it is off. If any major repair is going to be done while off. Pulling the doors and adding bracing would be you best bet. As other have mentioned. That will allow access to the areas needing repair. If you want to remove the body and place it right back on. I would leave the doors on, shim the gaps in the door jams. And wrap some straps around different parts of the body. If you do it this way, I would not unstrap anything while the body is off. Some Home Depot wood door shims will fill the gaps in the door jams in between the doors and the pillars. A strap around your front hinges, and the rear hinges. Will draw everything together. A strap around the base of the windshield pillar, and through the rear door window opening. Will also draw everything together. A strap around the fire wall and the rear body, on the body lines. Will draw it together. This way you are using the the body to support it's self by not allowing it to flex, or open up. It is going to move a little, based on the condition of what you are dealing with. You have to make that call. Once strapped up, and disconnected. I would use the lift arms under your lower front door hinge. This is also a call based on condition of the body. You can bump up the lift enough to place a piece of a 2x4 under the body. And run a strap under the 2x4, and across to the other side. Lower the body on the strap and the 2x4. Do the same on the rear of the body. Lifting up just enough to get the block under the body with a strap. The wood block will keep the strap from smashing the lower part of the body. The straps will also wrap/lay over the transmission and frame. Drawing tight as it is lifted. Best lifting points are under your door pillars, front, middle and rear. When strapping it up, get all of your straps in place. And tighten up together. You do no have to really draw it down hard. Should become pretty solid, if the body is in decent condition. You know what you are dealing with. No matter what you do, extra care and a few more hours spent in prep work. Might save you a lot of foul words and heavy drinking. If it goes smooth, you can still do the heavy drinking. This Auburn body was rotten. Lower rocker area was gone. Straps around the hinges side to side pulled the body together. Lift supported the rear body, Strap supported the front cowl. You are the only one that knows what you are dealing with condition wise. And what you want or need to do with the body while removed. Nobody's comments on here are steering you wrong.

Looks like you have a two post lift in your shop. A must have for a one man operation. This way might not be an option? This is a all steel body, best way to lift in my opinion. Getting to the Auburn pictures.

I will post pictures of lifting a Auburn body. I would run straps around the body, forcing the doors to say closed. And lifting from underneath with tie down straps. You would want a cart or something to set the body down on.

That might be a bad idea.

And here is a 1953 Hudson Hornet Hollywood Hardtop.

In Branson, looks like a fun town. I had no time to check it out. Plan is to drop down into Arkansas in the morning. Load the car, and get as far down the road as I can.

Council bluffs Iowa to Branson Missouri. 6 hours, 390 miles. Here is a good picture showing what you see along the way.

Met up with the couple that purchased the Chrysler in Council Bluff. Schedule worked out perfectly. They used to own a 1938 Chrysler Imperial Coupe. Always cool to see someone have memories about a car they used to have. And have the desire to purchase another one. Car is in good hands, what ever they decide to do with it.

Sidney Nebraska, more coffee and more gas.

Rawlings Wyoming to Council Bluff Iowa. 9+ hours of driving, 649 miles.

This picture captures what you see driving across Wyoming.

With the Chrysler loaded up, left Boise for Rawlings Wyoming. 8+ hours of driving, 586 miles. Not the most scenic drive. Idaho into upper part of Utah, then across Wyoming. Only stops are gas stations and the hotel in Rawlings. Dinner with a couple of Long Island ice teas.

While in Boise I spotted a engine and transmission for sale on Craigslist in Montana. Purchased the item and made arrangements to pick it up when returning from the trip. Sold my 38 Chrysler project, and was able to deliver part way for the new owner. That was a tough one to let go. Nice project car, a clean slate for any build/restoration.

6492 Miles, back from my road trip to purchase a car. In 10 different States, crossing State lines 23 times. Way to far too drive, hire a shipper. There was only one car, that if I found one. I would shuffle everything around for. It had to be year, make and model. And a project car in decent condition, and not hacked up. Portland OR, to Boise to grab my flat bed trailer. And back into Oregon and Washington to grab a Parts car. Spotted this on craigslist, before purchasing my new project. A parts car is worth it's weight in gold if you have a project car. Snagged some other things along the way. Always a good idea to look at stuff listed for sale in areas you are driving through. Sold a car, and delivered it along the way as well. Parts car purchase and pick up completed.

What about radium in your gauges?

Buying into projects can be a great way of going. If you know what you are looking at, and the direction of the build you want. A nice two door hardtop will set you back 10-12K. Just for the car. Add up new parts, labor for the tear down and money invested for work done. Asking price is realistic. Just tough selling project cars in this state of restoration/build. Popular car.

Tapping on the fuel gauge does not fill the tank. Tapping to hard breaks the glass. Nice car, should find a new home at that price. Love the look of 46-47 Hudson’s. A set of fender lights would finish it off.

I was also banned, and banished from a State (Idaho) who can top that?🫣

Does everyone figure the travel expenses in the total cost of the car? If you buy a car for $10,000, and travel expenses are $1,300. Are you in the car $11,300? Or is the $1,300 just looked as money spent on the trip, and not the car.

Drove 3100 miles round trip to purchase a 41 Cadillac. 2800 miles round trip to purchase a 34 Hudson Victoria. 2700 miles round trip to purchase a 49 Cadillac convertible.

In the middle of a road trip to purchase a car. And I was wondering how far people have traveled to purchase a vehicle. Straight driving, or flying to look at it. And then driving to pick it up. How many miles have you gone to buy a car?

Would this truck still have a V12? When did they drop the V12’s?

Spotted this in the parking lot across from the hotel. I had a 1944 LaFrance, not sure on the year of this one?