Machinist_Bill

Okay Willy it's been a couple of days! We need some photos here!

Sorry for my late response Jason but business came first. Having never tore one apart I can't tell if there are any differences but will file away this valuable info for future reference. Great as always! Bill

Thanks as always Jason!

Great post John! Documentation not fiction! Bill

Jason, You know I have a '26! Are you just teasing? Post away my friend!

Great! Now we have to figure out how to keep cows, humming birds, bees, ants, coyotes, and grandkids out of the the syrup.......... Bill

I'm with ya on that Willy! Molasses on the big stuff and evapo on the trinkets. Post your results so we can have fact instead of fiction on this. Bill

Jim, I know this is what I'll be using in the future. If you look closely at the carb vacuum steel tubes and how they cleaned up! I did not do any pre-soak cleaning. I just dumped this stuff in the jug. Next item will be a door latch assembly from my coupe. It's seized so it may need a couple of days. Not a problem there is plenty of Beer in the fridge while I wait! This is hard work!!!!! Bill

On the water inlet there must have been some left over paint.(See Photo) At one time silicone was used to seal it because the silicone was still on the bottom. The bolt is still seized in the hole but it's clean! The carb came out better than I expected. The carb and water inlet were slimy when I pulled it out of the jug so I rinsed them with hot water and scrubbed it with a small soft bristle brush similar to a shaving cream brush. No damage seen on either piece after a 24 hour soak. I know this topic has been discussed in the past (2002) but most of what I read was hearsay. There must be 50 ways of rust removal but I chose this one. I am the laziest man on the planet so this one works for me. Bill

:confused: I know, the gray doors are 1957 Chevy. The doors in brown patina (Rust) look to be 1923 and earlier Coupe. UNLESS it's the Budd body thing that confuses me. Notice the wide belt moulding and only 2 door hinges. The fender seems to be a 1928 Sedan left rear. My parts book only goes up to 1927. It seems to have a part #TO-370690 hand written. Does this number work? Thanks everyone! Bill

RU22, I put some crusty aluminum parts in the jug last night. I will post the results later today. Bill

QUOTE: I'm not so sure that I would dip anything that's case hardened,Like gears,for fear of the material eating away the case hardened layer. Many of these rust removers actually etch into the metal. I use to use ZEP industrial rust remover,worked great on steel but destroyed cast iron and would ruin gears. I thought of that too and did my research. Here are the statements from Harris International Labs, Inc. A product of extensive research, EVAPO-RUSTTM rust remover is an environmentally-safe water-based product that removes rust in minutes, without scrubbing. It's so easy to use, anyone can restore their rusted tools, auto parts, even firearms to like-new condition. One gallon de-rusts up to 300 lbs. of steel. • Removes even heavy rust completely • Non-toxic, non-corrosive, safe on skin • No fumes or bad odors, non-flammable, no VOC's • Biodegradable, water soluble • Easy to use - Soak part in room temperature solution • Requires no special equipment • No acids, bases, solvents or other toxic ingredients • Will not harm unrusted steel, safe on other metals • Can be disposed of safely into sewer • One gallon derusts up to 300 pounds of heavily rusted steel • Will not affect plastic, PVC, Viton and most paints Bill

I think I would stick with blasting on the big stuff Mike! I was looking for something to de-rust small delicate parts that sandblasting would blow out of my fingers and door latch assemblies. I will do aluminum tonight and open it up Saturday. Bill

After a 24 hour soak time I took the gear out and rinsed it with hot water and a wash rag. Works for me! Next I will try an oxidized aluminum carb section and we will see what happens..... Bill

Don't worry about the hijack Vern! This here is a learnin' thread. I have plenty of rusty stuff to try with molassis! I might try that next week and compare results. Bill

Mike, When I get home from work tonight I will post a photo of the rings on my '26. Bill

Here goes....... According to the label you can dip aluminum carbs to clean them up. Everything can be rinsed with water when done. Sure beats blasting! Stay tuned..... Bill

Ok, I'm hearing good stuff about this product so I went to my friendly Harbor Freight store and flopped down 30 bucks for a gallon of this stuff. I have some rusty gears that I will let soak for a couple of days and will post photos of the results. I have been looking for a non-abrasive way to de-rust and this seems to work. I have seen photos of a complete driveshaft that was inserted in 4" PVC and let soak. It came out looking like new. After the gears I will try it on some old door mechanisms and handles to see if it frees them up. Wish me luck! Bill

Just a friendly reminder Dave! Bill

Juan, Is it the Briggs & Stratton white face without a key?

What temperature and for how long Al? Bill

I hope your luck is better than mine Mike. The last time I tried to braze something that thin I watched it turn to ash. I had this stupid look on my face for the longest time. Like you, I have some headlight rings to repair but I will try it on some scrap rings first. Good luck to you! Show us some progress photos! Bill

Tony, I have not heard the term white lead since my apprenticeship in the early seventies. You are correct that it has oil to keep it a liquid. Looked like heavy white paint. It was used in our shop as a coating on a shaft before a coupling or a gear was pressed on. We called it a hillbilly fit because the lead would fill any voids when the liquid dried. I NEVER thought it was used as a primer/filler! It's been banned in this country since around 1980. Nice info...... Bill

Gunnar, Was your truck government owned? Post some photos I Love Trucks! Bill

Willy, Second Half........