Machinist_Bill

Willy, maybe this booklet would help........ (First Half) Bill

All 1933-1934 coups and 2-door sedans in all brands are going through the roof because of the front suicide doors. It's the latest craze in the HAMB world. I'm seeing Fords going for $40,000 in those years.

Jpage, You sir are DEAD ON! I have always said: " How many people do you see restoring covered wagons today". That being said enjoy them NOW. Don't delay and buy one today and drive the heck out of it! Just my 2 cents and a dime. Bill

Nice easy description Jason! Of course on the ending instead of rolling in the dirt you dragged me through it! Now I know where to send my hubcaps........... Bill

The diagram is from the 9th edition master parts book. As far as regrinding there probably is not a problem in doing so. BUT! you are correct on the hardness. Have your nearest roll grind shop check it with a hardness tester before you grind. After the grind check it again. Your local shop could send them out to be re-hardened if necessary. If you need more engine diagrams Mike just give me a holler...... Bill

Here's a photo Mike..... Bill

Mike, my parts book shows a valve lifter assembly part #1418, valve lifter screw part#891, and valve lifter check nut part #879. Reference from 9th edition parts book. Bill

This one's gonna hurt Jason...... Bill

Take all the time you need Dave! I appreciate the time your taking on looking..........

I have painted cars most of my adult life except the last 15 years. Paint was $60 a gallon instead of $800 today. The underside of the coupe looks good and brakes are functional. Wheel bearings and steering are good. Frame is rust free. If you look at the photo of the rear you can still see the rare Dodge Brothers optional trunk lid anti-rattle device in blue! I may take Jason's advice on the inside and spray it all down with WD40. My Challenger had a leaky rear main seal and it ended up saving my floor pans from rusting out! I never thought I would own it for 40 years! Still no one with a spare tire bracket??????? Bill

Jack, I don't want to take a chance on the car returning to dirt so I might try this stuff guys are using for restoration. It keeps bare metal from rusting for years! $35 for 8 ounces. I read about this on MOPARTS forums. Still no replies about a spare tire carrier! Nobody has one to sell? Bill

Hey Amigo! Not to change the subject but could you use 2" commercial venitian blinds as material for your crank blade? Maybe double them up? I would use a die grinder to cut the square holes or else the drill might kink it. Just my 2 cents worth...... Bill

Boy have times changed Jack! When I was growing up we used to call it RUST! Heck, guys were made fun of if it was in primer. Now, because it's an Art form, we call it "Patina". Well I guess you're right. I was'nt going to restore it anyway. I even purchased a set of original floorboards that a street rodder sold me. So Jack, how do I keep it from rusting? Use a Kerosene wipe every so often? Bill

That's the plan Jason! I'm in the process of finding all remaining missing pieces, give it a black rustolem brush paint job, and drive the dog doo doo out of it. P.S. My two grandkids are charging me $20 each for the paint job and I have to supply the materials! What a ripoff........ Bill

See anything missing back there? Besides the bumper, rear window glass, and tail light. You guessed it! The 21" wooded wheel spare tire carrier. Anyone have a spare? Bill

John, It's probably cheaper to ship those items than pay the new increased tolls in Illinois! Bill (In Indiana)

Thanks for posting Steve! Right now you are my best friend! In case of mental retardation on my part I may ask for more advise. Bill

Jason, After a terrible experience on the dining room table rebuilding a 4-speed (A bearing shot out and broke the wife's china cabinet glass) I am regrettably restricted to the garage. I plan on making a fixture to do exactly what you described. A little linseed oil during the pressing maybe? Those photos would be a help if you can find them. No hurry as I need to make the fixture for the arbor press. Bill

Doesn't sound too difficult, but I will try it first on a scrap wheel I have with bad spokes. It still runs true so if I can take it apart, put it back together and it still runs true, all is well. I will do some more research so I know the order of removal, re-assembly before I attempt it. A Great winter project! Oh Honey! Clean off the dining room table 'cause I'm bringing in something from the barn! Bill

Dave, is it possible to take them apart, bleach and re-stain, re-assemble the wheel in exact order, and then varnish? This has probably been asked a hundred times so the answer should be quick..... and the phrase: "Are you an idiot?" can be used in the answer if needed. Machinist Bill (NOT WHEELWRIGHT BILL)

Good for you Jason.... Persistence paid off! Bill

Here in Newton County Indiana the building dept. uses google earth to scan the perimeter of your property when applying for a building permit. They look for encroachments or code violations. You can't hide that Dodge behind the shed anymore! Bill

Made the sleeve this week and installed it. Had to grind the port to match the sleeve to eliminate any flow restriction. Used Loctite 660 to seal any seams as added protection even though when its bolted together it will tighten against shoulders. After it was installed it went back on the milling machine for a final deck cut on all the ports. It took .007" to clean up. This weekend it will get blasted and coated. Enjoy the photos and hope everyone has a safe New Year! Bill

I agree with Herm111 completely! When you have a "Old" engine rebuilt insist that the machine shop line bores the mains. AND Insist on a heavy radius on the journal ends when the crank gets ground. This eliminate the "break" in the steel. I don't know how dodge balanced their engines but it would not hurt to have the crank dynamically balanced. (Rotating) Don't static balance! (Not rotating) Just my 2 cents again........ Bill