John_Mc

Excellent response, thank you very much. I was a little gun-shy to open it up but I will do it now. The cable is not broken for sure. I do hope it's something simple. Thanks again.

Well as amazing as it may seem, I replaced the fuse on my 1937 Zephyr and clock began to run! And it continued to run for over an hour and kept pretty good time too. My only issue with it now it that I can't set the time. The cable that feeds the clock just spins and does not engage to move the hands. Can I fix this? Is it a common problem??? Don't want to install it like this. Sure I could send it out for repair, but anything I can do on my bench?? Thanks!

Well as amazing as it may seem, I replaced the fuse on my 1937 Zephyr and clock began to run! And it continued to run for over an hour and kept pretty good time too. My only issue with it now it that I can't set the time. The cable that feeds the clock just spins and does not engage to move the hands. Can I fix this? Is it a common problem??? Don't want to install it like this. Sure I could send it out for repair, but anything I can do on my bench?? Thanks!

Thanks for the heads up - I'm buying it tomorrow!

Who can answer some questions about the 1937 heater switch?? My switch does pull out to stop the flow of heated air but my accessory brochure that I just picked up says "the on/off function of the until is also controlled by the heater switch". Does anyone have more information on these units??? Thanks, it's maddening how little these things are written about in the shop manuals and other printed material. Also, I'd like to take out my clock and try to repair it. How is that removed??? Again, zero information on this either. Is there some book I need and can't find??? Thanks to all.

This is a funny topic because only this afternoon I was wondering the same thing. There is a drain nipple on my 1937 and the drain hose was very dry-rotted had simply fallen off. Looks like it runs underneath the car somewhere.

Hi Tom, never heard back from him, do you have another email?

Thanks guys, I took the car to a local expert flathead machinist who thought it was either a lifter or broken valve spring. His suggestion was to remove the intake and valley pan and have a look which I will do in a few weeks. All of you suggestions have bee great and really appreciated.

I LOVE your program, is it still on the air? It is so refreshing to see REAL craftsman doing REAL restoration. Such a contrast to the tattooed knuckle-dragging, part throwing, every other word bleeping morons who do "restoration" from a catalog. I can't even watch those shows any longer, they make me sick. Please tell me your shows are still available, have not seen them for a while. Perhaps the audience is just too stupid to appreciate fine professional work.

WOW, that is sooooo cool! I will be doing that for my '37, hopefully they will shed some light on my car's history. For under $25? Id be happy to pay twice that! Thank you for sharing that information.

Very true, im bringing it to Mike tomorrow and ill let you know what he says.

Excellent advice, did not realize I could see so much of the engine with the valley pan removed. I'm taking it tomorrow to a flathead expert here and then go from there. I think pulling the engine would be a good learning yet expensive experience.

Mike, You are a good man to admit that and im going to have to watch it carefully, especially since the noise sounds the same! Thanks again. If i have to pull the motor, its really OK, just want to know where im starting from.

Never thought of that but I dropped the pan several months ago and the tray was very tight although possible. Good thought though and I thank you for it, but I don't think a loose tray would not be affected by temperature. This Thursday I'll be taking it to another highly knowledgeable shop owner who will give it a listen. This is a friend of Tom O'Donnell's and I report what he says.

Hi, we did this also and checked out other possibilities such as the fuel pump, generator etc. I do not think it is coming from the front of the engine, but rather the back. Thanks.

Mike, one last question, was this engine making a noise similar to what I am describing before it let loose? If not, did you get any warnings??

OMG, that's awful! I'm very concerned and that's why I have to get tot he bottom of the problem. If I have to rebuild the engine, then that's what I do but it sure would be great to determine the root issue. Did you find out what caused such destruction??

Thanks once again. Tom and I did that and the noise remained the same after shorting out each one of the cylinders one at a time.

Peecher, thank you for responding. No, there is no power differential when the rapping noise starts, but your point is well taken. Would not a loose pin make noise at all temperatures as well?? This loud rapping noise takes place ONLY under 2 conditions: 1) higher rpm's and 2) a hot engine. I can't think of what inside that engine would cause such a ruckus under those two conditions and I really don't want to rebuild this motor if I don't have to do so. If I did not mention it earlier, this car starts on a dime and idles beautifully. Thanks again, ideas from those far more knowledgeable than me are welcome.

Please listen with the volume up. Any input would be greatly appreciated. I've been told on high authority, Tom O'Donnell, that this is at least on wrist pin and before I take the steps to remove and rebuild this engine, I'd like confirmation. This car has 61,000 miles and paperwork indicates is was totally rebuilt, some 30 years ago, with 59,000 miles. The car starts instantly and idles beautifully. Uses no oil and only begins on a hot motor and roughly 1,000 rpm's. I'm using 20W/50. Any advice???? Thanks in advance https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLw0XDYyTNE

Here is the sound I'm speaking about, please turn your volume up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLw0XDYyTNE Any ideas?? Wrist Pin?

Well I really dont have a reason to drop the trans, but shouldn't I as long as its easy to do with the engine out?

Joe, thanks for responding. What did it sound like? Mine is a loud rapping sound that comes in around 1,000 rpm's with a hot engine. Also, did you do anything else in there? How tough was it to pull the engine? All good now??? Thanks again. Im eager to start this project but anxious as well.

I may have to pull my 1937 Zephy engine to repair a wrist pin. Anyone done this before? Any tips?

If not already a member, please consider joining the LCOC and the fast growing Rockie Mountain Region with your car's new home! These are great guys with plenty of events and YES we do have many prewar owners and can provide a lot of information and fLincoln fellowship. I have a '37 Zephyr and had a blast this past weekend with our local region of the LCOC. I belong to both national clubs. www.LCOC.org.