John_Mc

According to one source: Of 191,355 Lincolns produced in 1977, but 1347 of the lovely 2 doors and 1591 of the 4 doors had this option. Yes, when new the solid glass roof was a rare bird, but now probably rarer still! 1.5% of production.

Yes, I’ve been slowly restoring this car since last November. I guess I can’t help myself! So while it gets better looking and more drivable, the cost keep going up. Here is a more recent picture: But like I said, I’m happy to just keep it. The glass top numbers were not recorded, but estimates run between 1,000 and 3,000 in coupes and sedans in the 1977 - 1979. The glass tops were not available in 1980. They were about the same cost as a moonroof, which of course while smaller, did open up. So naturally far fewer glass tops than moonroofs were sold.

Thanks John, and yes I have put a good deal of money into the car since the original listing including new tires, restored tank & fuel system, professionally rebuilt carb, headliner and a bunch of other items. I’m asking $8K, but I’ll take the first decent offer, as long as my costs are covered. And if I don’t get any offers at all, I’ll just keep it. I really love the thing, and it’s super rare and yes the glass is 100% factory original (installed by ASC). It even carries a Ford “Car-Llite” decal. The story on this Lincoln is that I saved it in the last moment, from going on a TV show in which one of the “artists with a sawzall” was about mutilate it for his own personal gratification. I couldn’t let that happen.

Guys, I have a ‘77 Lincoln Continental with an intermittent wiper system. I’d like to replace the switch, but they are hard to locate. I’d like to rebuild my original. Anyone provide this service?

This is an old post, but by chance is the bumper Jack still available?

Hi all, anyone have the lengths of the old shorter (Ford) and the longer 47-48 Lincoln starter armatures? I believe the old unit is 1/4" shorter than the 47-48 units. Thanks in advance.

Seriously?

Im not sure it’s a case of training or education………it’s lack of judgement

Hi, I regretfully am putting my 1948 Continental Cabriolet. Beautiful and rare V-12 car. Reasonably priced at $40K, call me for all the details. 847-997-9944. I can deliver the car to Hershey.

Ever find your Continental? I’m selling my ‘48 at a very reasonable price.

Rare and beautiful V12. Call me for details, 847-997-9944. Can deliver to Hershey. $40K or reasonable offer.

Somebody got an incredible car! what a beauty!!

I’ve been restoring cars for 40 years, the cowl vent seal was properly installed.

Thanks, my removal process is to pull slowly from the lowest angle possible, kind of like removing the backing paper from a decal. Lost no paint and there was no residue left on the car’s body. One thing I did learn is that the crash tape does stick very well to canvas, but other than that I’m going to continue to use it. I appreciate all the input, and to the naysayers who could not wait to give me 10 reasons why there was no such solution, look around and ask why not instead of no way.

Hi West, I did replace the cowl seal and darn it if it leaked anyway. Water always seems to find a way somehow to get where you don’t want it. Though not perfect, this tape really does the job as it was engineered.

I think I’d rather move to Ukraine than California! :-)

Good news! I used the crash tape in a driving rainstorm and the results were amazing! Yes, some water did get it in but nothing to the drenching that would have occurred without using this tape. I found no residue and the tape just pulled right off! Zero damage to any painted surfaces. Sometimes it pays to look at new ways of how to accomplish the task at hand.

As I mentioned in the first sentence of my original post, I’m familiar with the hazards of towing a covered car on am open trailer.

Not really harsh, I just think you are just missing my point. I’m not trying to prevent the car from getting wet, my attempt is to isolate and cover those parts of the car that allow water entry such as, cowl vent, base of the windshield, trunk seal, where the windshield meets the top etc. I do NOT wish to cover the car, and if a little rain water gets in, OK. I appreciate all the input and while I’m still looking for possible options but I’m going to try the crash tape and I’ll post the results.

Oh no, it’s a convertible. And I intend to only place it where it’s prone to leaks, like the cowl vent, etc. The concept is not to keep the car dry in a rainstorm, just cover those leak prone areas on a temporary basis.

I’m investigating crash tape as an answer. This amazing 3’ wide clear tape was developed for todays cars in a collision to prevent water intrusion destroying and destroying electronics. It will adhere to any surface and has a stickiness so it will not blow off. It will not remove paint and leaves zero residue. Used sparingly on areas know to leak, should virtually eliminate rain water from getting into the car’s interior. A 100’ roll should last for many years. Im trying to think outside the box and rethink the typical responses of “don’t do it.” Anyone used this system?

Thanks

Hi all, I’m very familiar with all the reasons why a car cover should not be used with an open trailer while towing. Yet, I can believe someone cannot come up with a cover that can be secured so it will not rub the paint off the car, or worse yet, blow off the car. After all the boat industry has used the shrink wrap system for decades. Why I’m asking for possible solutions is that I recently towed my “sealed” 1949 Lincoln convertible in the rain and the interior and trunk were just soaked. An enclosed trailer is out of the question. Any ideas???

Very well said. I have three collector cars and I live in a subdivision. I am VERY sensitive to the visuals and sounds around my neighbors. No car is ever left out, all are garaged. I don’t start grinding and running an air compressor after normal hours. I’ve always felt there is a fine line between an antique car collector and a hording hillbilly.