John_Mc

Guys, I don't sell these. I ordered this video from Don Berland of Northe Rdgeville OH. There are two movies that are about 40 minutes in total. Great shots of these beautiful cars when new. Yes, they are hoky to be sure bust it's the best $20 I ever spent. Don can be reached at 440-353-9748.

I'm going to sell my 1977 Lincoln Town Coupe. 55,000 original miles, this car has the super rare tu-tone ans interior and a moonroof. Probably not another one like it anywhere. 460 runs and starts beautifully. Could use paint, this is driver quanity only. Call me and I'll tell you about it. The car has air which does not work. Clean Illinois title in my name. I'd like to get $9,000 but make an offer and I'll probably take it. 847-997-9944.

Hi, I'm trying to reduce debt and pick up some room so I'm reluctingly selling my '61 Lincoln convertible. Good straight solid car, top works, all windows work. This car starts, drives and stops beautifully. Non-air car, needs paint badly. Yes there is some minor rust but it will hold a magnet anywhere. Nice and rare tu-tone leather interior. Good driver. I'd like to get somehere in the mid-teens but if you're interested in it, give me a call and I'll tell you all about it. 847-997-9977. Clean Illinois title in my name. I live near Chicago. To see many more pictures, go to: http://s191.photobucket.com/user/John_Mc_photos/library/#/user/John_Mc_photos/library/?sort=6&page=1&_suid=141986372945507948421590793366

The Lincoln "Black Label Program" is a concept open to many, but not all Lincoln dealerships where a buyer can slelect an incredible variety of seats, bolsters, headliner, shitching, woods, metals etc. Its likely that no two Black Label MKZ Lincolns will be built. It's a great concept, unlike anything out there. Sort of a throwback to the custom bodies of yesteryear. Yes, the cynics will be negative on it but Lincoln is trying to assert itself in the luxury field and this is a good step in that direction. If I had the $, I would own one.

Great tips Tom, thank you!

Great advice from everyone, thanks very much. At this point, I'd like to just get the arm so that is moves and I can pay to have it professionally rebuilt at a later time. This car will probably go about 150 miles a year so if it works or if it leaks does not really matter to me. I love this car, but I can't get carried away with costs. Right now I'm looking at replacing the carpets because they are just shredded and the seats which are so ripped with holes, they just have to be done. Just those two things alone are probably going to go beyond $2,000, additionally I need to replace the windshield, repair the radio, re-dye one of the door panels and who knows what else. That being said I really love this car and I know this is not a cheap hobby but I just have to go a little slow. I'll get to the shocks at some point but when I removed the left rear tire and saw the shock link just hanging in the air, I figured I would try to have it at least bolted back to the axle. You fellows are great, thanks again for th input.

The shock arm is frozen. I opened it up yesterday and poured in some penetrant to see what happens. If I have to rebuild it I will, but I'll bet that's a $200 bill.

Thanks, but I'd feel "dirty" drifing from original on something really basic like a rebuildable shock.

I'll call them, thanks West.

Guys, I tried moving the arm via a pry bar and it's frozen. Should it just be removed and sent out to be rebuilt??? I have no experience with these schocks at all.

This is not my car, for any questions call Jerry in NY @ 585-369-7491

That's PERFECT, thank you!

Guys I need to get the paint codes for my light blue metalic 37 Zephyr, anyone have that?

Great, never would have thought of connecting exhaust with carpet but I'll do it. Thanks!

Hello, can anyone point me in the direction of someone selling an original woven wool carpet for my 1937 4-door sedan??? I have Lebaron Bonney sending me some swatches already. Thanks in advance.

I spoke to Earl this afternoon - VERY helpful and I ordered all the necessary materials to drop the pan from him, plus he gave me many great insights into the job.

Thanks John, I will give Earl Brown a call this afternoon. BTW, I have joined the LZOC and the Midwest Region as well. Thanks for your response.

Guys I terms of price, service and knowledge, where should I buy all the parts needed to drop the pan of my '37 Zephyr V-12? I know the usual suspects, but who have you had a good experience with? Thanks.

I've done a lot of talking with Michael at KM Lifestyle. I am beyond impressed with his knowledge and customer service. This stuff is really over my head but it appears that in 1939 Ford changed how the resistance is read by the gauge. Up to 1939 the gauge without power would read cold but in '39 and later the gauge goes to hot without power. I bought a new sending unit from KM and it was reading the exact opposite of what it should be, in other words when the engine is first started the gauge shows nearly full ho but as the engine warms up the needle falls towards the mid-point. So KM is sending me a new unit that is set up to read properly. Thanks to all who answered, I really appreciate it.

On the '39 Pickup I was restoring a few years ago I got the bolt out by pressing it out with my 12 ton press while my neighbor had a torch heating up the perch. It finally did come out....but it didn't want to.

Guys, I'm having hard time getting my temp gauge to work. I have purchased from KM a new sending unit. When no power is supplied, my gauge shows cold. When power is supplied it begins to go to the mid-range and when the engine is started, it quickly goes to hot even though the engine is cool to the touch. Michael from KM is needing to know if other '37 Zephyrs are like mine - that is when the power is off, is your temp needle hot or cold? Mine is cold.

The problem has been solved and my decklid operates exactly as intended. The ratchet mechanism simply needed to be freed up and the small spring steel needed to be adjusted. Life is good!

Guys, I've been doing som digging into my own hinges and it appears there are no springs in the conventional way of thinking. It is a ratchet in which two small spring steel pieces lock the hinge and then by further lifting the decklid, another ratchet releases the lid. Quite ingenius I believe. The reason mine was not working, and maybe never did was that the spring steel was out of allignment with the ratchet mechenism. I'm not done yet but I think I can repair this thing myself. I'll let you know how it goes.