John_Mc

Got the bolt off and have removed the ball and after pushing down on the wishbone, I still can't get the pan to clear the wishbone. I don't see any interference with the tie rod or the cranks counterbalance in the front. I just can't twist the pan enough to get it past the wishbone. Any other ideas?

Thank you, I found a small trap door under the carpet as yo suggested and got right to the bolt, thanks. Now however I still can't remove the oil pan, it's jammed by the wish one which I've thiught would give enough clearance after the ball was removed but it still will not drop down far enough

The starter has been removed. Anyone know of a trick to this proceedure?

I now have the pan almost off except for the one bolt over the starter. I can barely see it, how am I supposed to remove it???

Guys, I'm at the end of my rope!!!! I'm removing the pan on the '37 Zephyr and CANNOT remove and can barely touch the single bolt on top of the starter. Is there a trick??? I was thinking that it would require the removal the round "can" at the back of the pan that the bendix goes into but I'm out of ideas. How is this bolt removed?????? Thanks!:mad:

Yep, he's got them. Thanks Tom.

Where might I locate the correct high-shoulder exhaust manifold bolts for my '37 Zephyr?

Is he looking for me?

Great information, is that back issue of Way of the Zephyr available for purchase??

Great info Tom, I think I have that manual from when I was working on my '39 half-ton. Should I need that puller I'll come and holler. Thanks for the kind offer!

Fellows, the last thing I want ot throughly inspect and repair is the cable brake system on my '37 Zephyr. I will not consider changing to hydraulics. which are obviously a better system. Outside of the obvious fraying etc., does this system have any known failures?? What do I look for and where? Is there a manual that clearly goes through the brakes step-by-step? Thanks for all responses, got to get this old girl ready for summer!

Thanks,you guys are great.

Do I need to disturb the wishbones when dropping the oil pan?? Looks like I have enough clearance after removing the exhaust crossove and starter. I'd like to have to remove the ball, but maybe I shoud just replace it as long as I'm down there??

All, when I see folks do really great work. I had Kieth make up two lighter knobs and one radio knob for my '37 Zephyr. As you all know these are impossible to find. When I bought the car both lighters were missing and the radio had some ugly black Radio Shack knob that matched nothing. I could not be happier! Thanks Keith!!!

Steve, as you probably know these cars' structuraly intregerty depends upon the frame rails which are welded to the floor pans so rust can be a huge problem. Just look in the usual places, wheel wells, wheel arches etc. Also trunk panels are prone to rust and are extremely expensive, if you can find a good one. Outside of that remember these cars are really complicated machines - amazing to me that they were built on an assembly line! My '61 convertible runs and drives and the top works. It's no show car at this point but at least I was able to find one that I could afford. Look for these early convertibles to sky rocket in the next 3 to 5 years, in my opinion.

Hi Tom, I've been out of the country for about a week so I coul not respond. I did try to weld a nut several times and could not get the nut to weld to the stud well enough to take the stress of the wrench. I've done some welding but can't say I'm proficient. The good news is that I ended up taking it to a machine shop here locally who will drill it all out and then helicoil it for $50-$60. Not the best senario but could have been worse. I'll post pictures.

Hi Tom, well I used MAP gas and it worked beautifully for one of the studs. The other one that was broke off almost even? Not so much and I tried everything and ended up drilling it out. That was working pretty well too and then the drill bit broke off inside. Not good. I ended up taking it to a machine shop here in town that will drill it out fully and probably insert a helicoil if it can't be tapped for about $50. Not a pleasant experience but that's part of working on these old Lincolns.

I just bought a set of arms and wipers last month for my '37. Zephyr so I know he has them.

Looks beautiful, any more pictures? A convertible out there has got to be next to heaven!

Thanks Tom, but unfortunately I need to work today. :-( Do you have a manifold with a broken off bolt???

you know, I've been thinking. I've had for years an oxyacetylene torch set and never got around to getting the tanks. Well I'm going toget them now, it might be a good thing that I broke off the stud as I'm going to fix it myself. A good learning experience.

Will do Bruce, I have used never seize for years and it's great stuff.

Well I have the manifold off the car. I ended up splitting the nut and everything came apart. You guys were right, removing the manifold bolts was no big deal. Now I need to replace the studs, think I'll take RP 1967's advice and take the manifold to Midas. Should be like taking candy from a baby for them. Thanks to all! Now back to removing that pan!

Don't need to Tom as I cut out all those crazy splices and went directly to the switch.

Thanks Tom, I do not have an acetylene torch, will MAP gas perform as well??? Thanks for the info on the manifold bolts. Hopefully I'll get lucky. Also, not sure if its original but my crossover pipe is fixed with a sleeve so once I get the remaining nut off, I should be OK. Thanks again, stupid on my part!