Erik

Sorry Tinindian, I did initialy do a search but got 0 results :-) Ok I just did a little more searching but didn't find a useful answer. Why do I want to change? I have heard a lot about modern paper giving better air flows and better performance. I do know my car is postwar but you prewar guys seem to know more about the 320 I8. I would love to get more mpg than 10. I thought it would be nice to try it out. Living in Europe I can not go to the store and look at different filters but must reguest for a certain make/model

Do any of you know of a paper air filter that will fit inside the old oil type filter setup instead of the wire mesh insert? - 320 straight eight

Do any of you know of a paper air filter that will fit inside the old oil type filter setup instead of the wire mesh insert? - 320 straight eight

Or you can build a bolt-on manifold while you wait for the right reproduction :-)

The bottom housing on the fantastic rebuildt guarenteed pump i bought was rotated 180 degrees. That fixed it is just to take out the plug and use my old air dame. Just hate to rebuild a new item :-( Thanks all for your help

1952 Roadmaster: I just got a "new" fuel pump and this thing is missing. What is it? Do I need it?

Anyone have a good idea how to fit a '52 76R 6volt with a cruise control?

The process for reparing the temp gauge can be found online, but I seem to remember something about freezing the bulb in an ice cube and then filling it with ether. This way the ether will remain liquid while the tube is patched. Cut the tube where it is leaking and sleeve it and solder it

Your temp-gauge is an ether-filled tube. No ether no action. You can repair them, but easier to get a new/NOS (I think Buick Farm still might have them - else E-bay) You can get speedo cables from Bobs or Cars - it's a simple replacement job

Why? Because we can

Cars has a adhisive felt tape for that job

Mine are fitted with a special size female connector. They are larger than 1/4". Rhode Island had them and knew what I was searching for. They are the same size as for Wade connectors

Thanks Ben With power steering I'd much rather prefer less wandering and more stability and precision - specially on the freeway going 65 -70 We are allowed 85 but that is definitely no fun

Sounds very cheep for so rare a car

Quick question just to be safe: The manual states: toe in 1/16 - 1/8 camber 3/8 positive caster 3/4 positive kingpin incl 4 1/4 If running with radial tires, do these numbers hold up? Thanks Erik

I would love a copy too

Welcome to the forum. Besides the 13 bca cars I only know of 2 in Sweden and 1 in South Africa. There seems to be more hot rodded cars than cars in original state. Our cars really are very rare

I have just scraped my 6v pertronix and gone back to points. Pertronix only operate between 4 - 8volt. Often I only had 3.8v on the coil due to effect loss through the relays, wiring etc and I couldn't start. When the battery ran down trying I couldn't jump start from a 12v car. But other than that they were great

I have one from a '52 Roadmaster, but it's in Denmark. Works beautifully

This is solved by grounding the solenoid relay/Gen wire

I mounted a 6v Powermaster Powergen 1wire alternator last year. The powergen looks like the original and bolted straight on. I stripped the voltage regulator of its relays and used it as a connecting box. The solenoid relay to GEN wire I grounded in the empty voltage regulator and shorted the BAT and ARM poles and used the redundant ARM pole to connect the headlamps. All in All it looks original to all but hard-core Buick specialists :-) Best of all is the huge amount of amps at any speed included parade driving with lights on (as required here in Denmark)

The boot can be fitted but not attached. It is simply pressed up against the outer retainer. It works fine or has done so for me the last 7 years

What's happened to the September Bugle?

The cast iron of the early '50s contaned just about everything BUT iron. During the years sulpher has built up, which is also why it is virtually impossible to weld or repair. A 60 year old manifold contains currently mud, sulpher and hope. Don't think to much about it :-) Stainless steel contain a certain amount of chrome and nickel changing its galvanic charge. And what you really don't want is the manifold corroding around the sleeve edge letting the sleeve drop out or welds loosen

Maybe I did come at you a little strong, but then I am tired of everyone (specially in my country) always blaming someone else for own faults. But enough said on this. Do not use stainless or copper for the sleeve. The manifold is cast iron so the sleeve should be plain steel. Else you will create a galvanic battery which with the acidic gasses will corrode the joins. So what if the sleeve only lasts another 35 years. The stove pipe i aluminium is also correct as aluminium does not retain heat well and will react faster to temperature fluctuations.