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oldbuicks55

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About oldbuicks55

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  1. Someone requested photos of my cabinet in my 90L. I have no doubt it is not exactly as it came from the factory as some of the hardware is a little too crude. Still I have seen enough similar examples that I think the cabinet was an option and not just some crafty restorer's substitute for missing jump seats. But I could be wrong! As a side note, I don't think the wood around the divider window crank is probably stock. Also, for those who are curious that is a clock above the crank.
  2. As the owner of a 1938 Limited 90L, I would agree with the comments so far. All the pre-war Limiteds are great cars and classics and they should be worth a lot more, but the market indicates otherwise. I hope the sellers get their price, but realistically I think the one for sale probably needs to drop at least $10K or more to move any time soon. From what I have seen, buyers seem to be particularly picky when everything isn’t perfect on these. I do really love my 38 and it is definitely a car I plan to keep for a lifetime. I have had it about 12 years now and enjoy driving it.
  3. Matt Harwood--Your 1941 Century blog was a great help to me when I was getting my own 1941 Super back on the road about 12 years ago. So a belated thanks for that. My 1938 Limited was a show car back in the early 80's when it was restored. I think it won best of show at the 1983 BCA meet long before my ownership. It still looks nice but the restoration shows its age as it has put on some miles since then and the lacquer has failed in spots . I have had it for ten years now and while I prefer to keep it stock when possible, my main goal here is to make sure it stops when I want it to. The
  4. Thanks for the reply. The rubber hose is definitely correct as that is what the shop manual refers to (and also what Bob's sells as being correct). Unfortunately, the shop manual doesn't show enough detail to indicate how the rubber hose connects to the metal brake lines. That is currently the missing piece of the puzzle for me. The car was restored back in the early 80's, so they probably went with whatever master cylinder they could find that was close in size, but used a metal line instead of the stock rubber hose (and whatever part I am missing). The non-stock master cylinder failed r
  5. I have a question about what the rubber master cylinder hose connects to for a 1938 Buick Limited. The hose has a male end and a female end. The male end obviously connects to the master cylinder but I am not sure what the female end connects to. The non-stock cylinder I pulled off the car connected to a metal line. which connected to a junction box with the brake switch. The metal line has two male ends, unlike the rubber hose. So the junction box I need to connect to has a female input so the hose wont connect to it. I am sure I can probably find some type of male/male adaptor to make
  6. I replaced my temperature gauge last year on my 1941 Super, so I went through the process of removing the gauge cluster. There were four bolts that held the machined metal dash plate which holds the gauges. It required a bit of an awkward effort to get those loose but it wasnt too bad. This allowed the dash plate (with the three gauges) to come loose and move a few inches toward the steering wheel. In order to give the dash cluster enough play to move forward, I had to first unhook the speedometer cable from the bracket on the steering column in the engine compartment. Once the four nuts
  7. My 1938 90L has the battery in the engine compartment. It is on the right (passenger) side running parallel to the engine. It is the long narrow battery style. I think the Limiteds tend not to be as standardized compared to the rest of the models, so all kinds of variations can be found. For example, mine has 1937 style rear shocks. I don't know much about McLauglins so not sure of the difference and how they varied from the regular Buick line. I can send you some pics if you would like. Lars
  8. Thank you for your offer--I am slowly figuring out that there are not too many 41 Buick owners who post here. I think I figured how to run the line this weekend based on some pictures I found on the internet. If I didnt route the line 100% correct, I think it must be pretty close. My new problem is that in the bleeding process I have found that some of the connections are leaking slightly--so I need to try some different things to get better seals. Always something it seems...
  9. I have perused Matt Harwood's site--he has two pictures that are real close to what I am hoping to find (assuming the Century routing is the same as the Super). I also don't know if his car had the original lines at the time of the photos. I am hoping for something that shows the piping a little better regarding how it goes by the clutch pedal.
  10. A while back I posted about redoing the brake lines on my 1941 Buick Super. I ended up buying a pre-bent set from a place called Classic Tube. At this point, I have managed to install all but one of the lines. The last one is giving me some trouble as I am not sure exactly how it should be routed. It is the one that goes from the brake junction box in the engine compartment (where the four pipes connect) to the rear rubber hose underneath the car. I am hoping someone can provide some pictures that show how this line comes out of the brake junction box and is routed between the clutch and
  11. Thanks everybody for your suggestions! Looks like there are a few more things I can try before I head to the machine shop. I have owned the Buick for about 20 years now (bought it while still in high school!) and have pretty much just lived with the smoke. It smokes about the same now as when I first drove it home all those years ago. Since I have owned it, the car has always been garaged kept and driven about 500-1000 miles a year. Because of the history I have with the car, I have decided it is time I do it some justice and try to get the engine right. I am not ready to do a full on re
  12. Thanks for the reply. I will admit I am a little ignorant when it comes to engine rebuilding. If I take the car to a shop and state "I want the engine rebuilt" does this mean the same thing to every shop? I imagine there is probably a wide range of what that term means to most people. What is done in a typical rebuild and what can I roughly expect it to cost? Also, if anyone can recommend any place near Virginia to do a rebuild I would appreciate it. Thank you, Lars
  13. Thank you for the reply. By WW tire size, I guess I didnt mean tire size (which is the 650-16 Bias) but actually what is the correct WW width? For example, at the Coker tire web site, for 1941 Buick Model 51, they list several different WW widths. I know for 40's GM cars, that Goodrich is correct, but I am not sure what WW width is the way to go. Options are 3 1/4, 3 3/4, and 4 inch. Or is it just a matter of preference? Lars
  14. I have owned my 1955 Buick Special for a long time now and have finally decided I need to do something about the engine. The car runs strong but it does have a bit of a smoke problem. The smoke does not come out the tail pipe, however. The smoke mainly comes from around the valve covers and the vertical pipe in the engine compartment. The smoke is not tremendous but it doesnt look good and sometimes enters the passenger compartment through the steering linkage. The car does not use up antifreeze so I dont think it is a head gasket problem. Someone told me they think it is the valve seals
  15. I bought a 1941 Buick Super 4-dr Sedan a few months ago. I also own a 1955 Buick, but this is my first venture into the pre-war era. The 41 was restored about 25 years ago--it was probably an okay restoration at the time, but they didnt follow the most exacting standards. Also, the car sat in a garage for at least 5 years before I bought it. I have some questions I am hoping someone can answer. 1. What is the correct length for the rear fender chrome spear? On my car, the left side is 24 inches long while the right side is 21 inches. Both are in near perfect shape--they just dont match.
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