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About oldbuicks55

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    Bethesda, MD

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  1. Matt Harwood--Your 1941 Century blog was a great help to me when I was getting my own 1941 Super back on the road about 12 years ago. So a belated thanks for that. My 1938 Limited was a show car back in the early 80's when it was restored. I think it won best of show at the 1983 BCA meet long before my ownership. It still looks nice but the restoration shows its age as it has put on some miles since then and the lacquer has failed in spots . I have had it for ten years now and while I prefer to keep it stock when possible, my main goal here is to make sure it stops when I want it to. The
  2. Thanks for the reply. The rubber hose is definitely correct as that is what the shop manual refers to (and also what Bob's sells as being correct). Unfortunately, the shop manual doesn't show enough detail to indicate how the rubber hose connects to the metal brake lines. That is currently the missing piece of the puzzle for me. The car was restored back in the early 80's, so they probably went with whatever master cylinder they could find that was close in size, but used a metal line instead of the stock rubber hose (and whatever part I am missing). The non-stock master cylinder failed r
  3. I have a question about what the rubber master cylinder hose connects to for a 1938 Buick Limited. The hose has a male end and a female end. The male end obviously connects to the master cylinder but I am not sure what the female end connects to. The non-stock cylinder I pulled off the car connected to a metal line. which connected to a junction box with the brake switch. The metal line has two male ends, unlike the rubber hose. So the junction box I need to connect to has a female input so the hose wont connect to it. I am sure I can probably find some type of male/male adaptor to make
  4. I replaced my temperature gauge last year on my 1941 Super, so I went through the process of removing the gauge cluster. There were four bolts that held the machined metal dash plate which holds the gauges. It required a bit of an awkward effort to get those loose but it wasnt too bad. This allowed the dash plate (with the three gauges) to come loose and move a few inches toward the steering wheel. In order to give the dash cluster enough play to move forward, I had to first unhook the speedometer cable from the bracket on the steering column in the engine compartment. Once the four nuts
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