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Everything posted by oldbuicks55

  1. I have no real knowledge of the seller on ebay or the car itself, but I am pretty sure it was for sale in the July print edition of Hemmings for $36,500. How many green 1940 Packard 180 limos could there be? A quick google search shows two dealers with this car (both marked sold) with lots of pictures and details. The ebay auction could be an attempt at a quick flip (quite a gamble with a pre-war car) or a scam. Not saying it is either but an interested buyer should probably ask a lot of questions...
  2. Someone requested photos of my cabinet in my 90L. I have no doubt it is not exactly as it came from the factory as some of the hardware is a little too crude. Still I have seen enough similar examples that I think the cabinet was an option and not just some crafty restorer's substitute for missing jump seats. But I could be wrong! As a side note, I don't think the wood around the divider window crank is probably stock. Also, for those who are curious that is a clock above the crank.
  3. As the owner of a 1938 Limited 90L, I would agree with the comments so far. All the pre-war Limiteds are great cars and classics and they should be worth a lot more, but the market indicates otherwise. I hope the sellers get their price, but realistically I think the one for sale probably needs to drop at least $10K or more to move any time soon. From what I have seen, buyers seem to be particularly picky when everything isn’t perfect on these. I do really love my 38 and it is definitely a car I plan to keep for a lifetime. I have had it about 12 years now and enjoy driving it. We even used it for my wedding and several friends' weddings as well. An odd thing is that if I take it some place where it is mostly “car guys”, like a local cars and coffee or small car show, it doesn’t really get a second look. I think it is just seen as a big old four door sedan. However, when I go someplace where it is mostly non-car people or a show that has a lot of the general public attending, they seem to go nuts over it. Mine has the glass divider and leather seats in front but oddly enough no jumps seats. It has a built in bar/storage cabinet in the back of the front seat, which is substantially different than the one installed in the Limited for sale in this thread. I haven’t seen the option that mine has in any Buick literature but I have seen enough 38 Limiteds (at least three others) similarly equipped with the built in storage compartment and no jump seats that it would seem to have at least been an option. Oh and as someone mentioned, the front seat is fixed and probably designed for someone about 5’10” or less. But if you are taller, don’t let that scare you too much. I am about 6”2” and while a couple more inches of leg room would be nice, I have driven the car close to 2,000 miles and for me, it has just been something I have gotten used to. My brother in law is 6’5” and he has driven the car several times, without significant complaint.
  4. Matt Harwood--Your 1941 Century blog was a great help to me when I was getting my own 1941 Super back on the road about 12 years ago. So a belated thanks for that. My 1938 Limited was a show car back in the early 80's when it was restored. I think it won best of show at the 1983 BCA meet long before my ownership. It still looks nice but the restoration shows its age as it has put on some miles since then and the lacquer has failed in spots . I have had it for ten years now and while I prefer to keep it stock when possible, my main goal here is to make sure it stops when I want it to. The brake system is clearly not stock, so I am going to try and find the best solution I can. I think you are on to something about not going back to the stock route. Dave--looks like we live close by each other, I am sure I have seen your 1940 Buick at the All GM show at Montgomery College. Been a while since I have shown a car there. MCHinson--Thanks so much for the pictures. That helps solves a lot of the mystery. I think the Limited must be a little different given where the floor access hole is from the top but the stock cylinder must still connect to the transmission somehow, which explains the need for the rubber hose. The non-stock brake system on my car is routed completely different as my master cylinder was attached to the frame with a bracket, so they also went with a metal line instead of a hose. I must be missing more pieces as I don't see anyway to make the stock master cylinder would work without some kind of bracket that attaches to the transmission. Even with a bracket I don't see how it would reach my brake pedal and be under the floor access hole. My brake line junction box is also quite different. So it looks like my best option right now is to either sleeve the cylinder I have on hand since I know that works with my configuration or to find another cylinder that is compatible per Matt's suggestion. I will start another thread to see if anybody knows the original application for a Wagner Lockheed FD-4862 cylinder. It is the same size as the stock Delco cylinder, but the mirror opposite. I googled it but found no info about it. Thank you again to everybody for your input! Lars
  5. Thanks for the reply. The rubber hose is definitely correct as that is what the shop manual refers to (and also what Bob's sells as being correct). Unfortunately, the shop manual doesn't show enough detail to indicate how the rubber hose connects to the metal brake lines. That is currently the missing piece of the puzzle for me. The car was restored back in the early 80's, so they probably went with whatever master cylinder they could find that was close in size, but used a metal line instead of the stock rubber hose (and whatever part I am missing). The non-stock master cylinder failed recently and is pretty scored on the inside so it needs to be replaced. I ordered the replacement from Bob's as well as the hose. I might need to change the title of this thread to 1936-1938 Buick Series 60-80-90 to get more of a response as I know there aren't too many 38 Limiteds out there. My 1941 Buick has the metal line coming from the master cylinder, so that is no help.
  6. I have a question about what the rubber master cylinder hose connects to for a 1938 Buick Limited. The hose has a male end and a female end. The male end obviously connects to the master cylinder but I am not sure what the female end connects to. The non-stock cylinder I pulled off the car connected to a metal line. which connected to a junction box with the brake switch. The metal line has two male ends, unlike the rubber hose. So the junction box I need to connect to has a female input so the hose wont connect to it. I am sure I can probably find some type of male/male adaptor to make it work, but I am wondering how this connection was made originally and if anyone sells the parts. The rubber hose was used from 1936 to 1938 on the Series 60 and up models, so I am hoping somebody might have some idea what I am talking about. Bob's Automobilia seemed confused when I asked them, so I might be asking the question in the wrong way. I am also kind of curious as to why a rubber hose was needed in the first place. Whoever restored my car obviously didn't think it was necessary. Unfortunately, the metal line wont work with the new stock cylinder that I have on hand. Thanks for any help anyone can provide.
  7. I replaced my temperature gauge last year on my 1941 Super, so I went through the process of removing the gauge cluster. There were four bolts that held the machined metal dash plate which holds the gauges. It required a bit of an awkward effort to get those loose but it wasnt too bad. This allowed the dash plate (with the three gauges) to come loose and move a few inches toward the steering wheel. In order to give the dash cluster enough play to move forward, I had to first unhook the speedometer cable from the bracket on the steering column in the engine compartment. Once the four nuts are removed from the dash plate it will come out about two inches or so which gives just enough room to remove the nuts holding the gauges in place. Although I didnt remove it, I think there were three nuts holding the speedometer onto the machined plate. When moving the gauge cluster, I used some towels to pad it to avoid scratching the dash, steering coulmn etc. There might be a better way, but that is how I did it. Getting everything back together was a little more challenging as it is easy to drop the nuts and tougher to find them. I have some pictures I took underneath the dash I could send you--I have no idea of how to post them.
  8. My 1938 90L has the battery in the engine compartment. It is on the right (passenger) side running parallel to the engine. It is the long narrow battery style. I think the Limiteds tend not to be as standardized compared to the rest of the models, so all kinds of variations can be found. For example, mine has 1937 style rear shocks. I don't know much about McLauglins so not sure of the difference and how they varied from the regular Buick line. I can send you some pics if you would like. Lars
  9. Thank you for your offer--I am slowly figuring out that there are not too many 41 Buick owners who post here. I think I figured how to run the line this weekend based on some pictures I found on the internet. If I didnt route the line 100% correct, I think it must be pretty close. My new problem is that in the bleeding process I have found that some of the connections are leaking slightly--so I need to try some different things to get better seals. Always something it seems...
  10. I have perused Matt Harwood's site--he has two pictures that are real close to what I am hoping to find (assuming the Century routing is the same as the Super). I also don't know if his car had the original lines at the time of the photos. I am hoping for something that shows the piping a little better regarding how it goes by the clutch pedal.
  11. A while back I posted about redoing the brake lines on my 1941 Buick Super. I ended up buying a pre-bent set from a place called Classic Tube. At this point, I have managed to install all but one of the lines. The last one is giving me some trouble as I am not sure exactly how it should be routed. It is the one that goes from the brake junction box in the engine compartment (where the four pipes connect) to the rear rubber hose underneath the car. I am hoping someone can provide some pictures that show how this line comes out of the brake junction box and is routed between the clutch and brake pedals. I took several pictures before I took everything apart, but the old brake lines on my car were definitely not original and dont match the new pre-bent tubes at all, so my pictures dont help much. The way the new tube is pre-bent gives me several options but I am not sure what is correct and I know I am bound to pick the wrong way. So if anyone could provide a picture or two, or steer me to a website that might have such a picture posted I would greatly appreciate it. My car is a Super but I would imagine all of the Buicks from that year used very similar brake line patterns. Thank you, Lars
  12. Thanks everybody for your suggestions! Looks like there are a few more things I can try before I head to the machine shop. I have owned the Buick for about 20 years now (bought it while still in high school!) and have pretty much just lived with the smoke. It smokes about the same now as when I first drove it home all those years ago. Since I have owned it, the car has always been garaged kept and driven about 500-1000 miles a year. Because of the history I have with the car, I have decided it is time I do it some justice and try to get the engine right. I am not ready to do a full on restoration, however as the car is just a decent looking driver. The smoke is not a "wow, your car might be on fire" kind of smoke but it is definitely more than what could be considered normal. The main annoyance (and safety concern) is the smoke that comes into the passenger compartment. Sometimes at stoplights, smoke works its way through the steering linkage. Not a lot of smoke, about the same as a lit cigarette, but enough to usually concern my passengers. I guess I could try sealing around the steering linkage to keep the smoke out, but that probably is not my best long term solution. Even after long drives it still smokes somewhat, so I dont think it is a matter of cooking anything out. The car sometimes smokes worse than other times, so maybe there is still room for some adjustments. While I have done a lot of work to the car over the years, I've never really felt too comfortable tinkering too much with the engine. I haven't tried changing the thermostat so maybe that will help. I will try some more things and keep everyone posted!
  13. Thanks for the reply. I will admit I am a little ignorant when it comes to engine rebuilding. If I take the car to a shop and state "I want the engine rebuilt" does this mean the same thing to every shop? I imagine there is probably a wide range of what that term means to most people. What is done in a typical rebuild and what can I roughly expect it to cost? Also, if anyone can recommend any place near Virginia to do a rebuild I would appreciate it. Thank you, Lars
  14. Thank you for the reply. By WW tire size, I guess I didnt mean tire size (which is the 650-16 Bias) but actually what is the correct WW width? For example, at the Coker tire web site, for 1941 Buick Model 51, they list several different WW widths. I know for 40's GM cars, that Goodrich is correct, but I am not sure what WW width is the way to go. Options are 3 1/4, 3 3/4, and 4 inch. Or is it just a matter of preference? Lars
  15. I have owned my 1955 Buick Special for a long time now and have finally decided I need to do something about the engine. The car runs strong but it does have a bit of a smoke problem. The smoke does not come out the tail pipe, however. The smoke mainly comes from around the valve covers and the vertical pipe in the engine compartment. The smoke is not tremendous but it doesnt look good and sometimes enters the passenger compartment through the steering linkage. The car does not use up antifreeze so I dont think it is a head gasket problem. Someone told me they think it is the valve seals. Anyway, the engine has about 130,000 miles on it so I think some type of rebuild is probably in order. Unfortunately, I dont have the equipment nor the skills to do it myself. So my questions are the following: 1. What is the minimum I should have done and what would an approximate cost be? 2. If I want everything done right (not just the minimum) what should be done and what would a rough estimate? 3. Can anyone recommend any places to have the work done in the Northern Virginia/DC Metro area? Thank you, Lars
  16. I bought a 1941 Buick Super 4-dr Sedan a few months ago. I also own a 1955 Buick, but this is my first venture into the pre-war era. The 41 was restored about 25 years ago--it was probably an okay restoration at the time, but they didnt follow the most exacting standards. Also, the car sat in a garage for at least 5 years before I bought it. I have some questions I am hoping someone can answer. 1. What is the correct length for the rear fender chrome spear? On my car, the left side is 24 inches long while the right side is 21 inches. Both are in near perfect shape--they just dont match. 2. What is a good source for pre-bent metal brake lines? When I purchased the car, the brake pedal went down to the floor. My original plan was to just replace the wheel cylinders, shoes and springs etc. After poking around underneath the car, it is pretty obvious that the metal brake lines are not orginal and were very sloppily installed. There is not even a rear rubber brake hose--instead they just left some extra metal line to provide some give. I would prefer pre-bent lines since I don't have good originals to provide a pattern. I know Kanter sells stainless steel lines but these are a little pricey and can take up to six weeks to be delivered according to their catalog. 3. I also need to replace the exhaust system. What is the best approach to this as I am pretty sure my local Midas probably wont stock the giant size muffler this car takes? I know places like Kepich sell complete systems, but will a muffler place be willing to install parts they dont sell? I dont think I am up to installing it myself since I dont have a lift or cutting tools. I live in Northern Virginia if anyone has any places they can recommend. 4. What size and type WW tires are correct for this car? 5. What type oil should I be using? The engine has about 60,000 miles on it and I dont believe it has been rebuilt. Thank you for any help you can provide! Lars
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