1965rivgs

" If it aint broke, dont fix it" As long as the tank is free from heavy corrosion inside and does not appear as though corrosion from the outside to create a leak is a possibility there is no need to do anything but address the cosmetics. Save your money and put it into another area, preferably one that will increase the value of the car. Tom Mooney

As has been stated the price sounds VERY inexpensive by Chicago area standards. I would imagine there are quite a few interior shops in your area, and possibly an abundance of cheap labor, but I would certainly want to see an example of his work before committing at the quoted price. I agree purchasing the covers from Clarks should assure the "correct" material and pattern but what happens if the seats look terrible and the installer blames Clarks for the covers?? Hard to hold the installer accountable if someone else has made the covers and vice versa unless one has practical experience with upholstery work and can pass judgement as a result. I`m going thru that right now with a set of covers Clarks made, then modified (not Clarks fault as I picked up the project after the previous owner had the wrong carpeting installed), which an inexpensive upholsterer installed (at my cost), and now the seats are not right. I honestly dont know if it is the covers or the installer and I cant bust someones chops unless I`m sure so the seats will end up at a high end shop to get them right $$$. Lesson learned.....good luck! Tom Mooney

Hi Jay, First, are you sure you have a `65 AM-FM? If you are not sure there should be a small sticker with a model number on it. Reason I am asking is because the `63, `64 and `65 have their plugs in different locations on the radio case. If your three male terminals are located at the left rear upper corner of the case they are arranged as follows: First terminal closest to the heat sink and farthest to the left looking at the top of the case is the ground wire for the speaker (black) Second or middle terminal is the power to the speaker (green) Farthest terminal from the heat sink and closest to the middle of the case is for 12 volts. As Jason has suggested best to use an 8 or 10 ohm speaker so you can turn up the volume but just to check operation at a low volume momentarily any speaker will do (dont turn up the volume if you are using a 4 ohm speaker or you risk blowing what`s left of the amp) You will also need an antenna to get decent reception. My experience with the early AM-FM radios is even if they play they need work. Most common problems are the signal fading in and out as you drive (sounds like an antenna problem but I have been down this road more than once and was told by several radio repair persons that problem is old transistors) and losing the volume after appreciable playing time. Good luck! Tom Mooney

Great news!!! Better fake cars... Tom Mooney

Yes, radio is grounded via its mounting. Power is the yellow wire, speaker wires should be green and black. You will most likely need to rig up an antenna also. Play the radio for awhile at a decent volume level to be sure the volume does not fade away. Tom Mooney

You`re thinking too hard...standard automotive wire is fine. Should be available at any decent auto parts store. Tom Mooney

You`re in luck! Info for NEW one! PM sent Tom Mooney

If originality is the goal it should be noted redline tires are NOT correct on the `65 model. 1966 was the first year for this tire choice on the Riviera GS Tom Mooney

Ran across this car last year pushed up against the wall in a corner of the Scottsdale International Car Museum. It had just been removed from years of storage and really needed a thorough cleaning. I couldnt get past the color so made a relatively low but respectable offer which didnt cut it. Another dealer here in Scottsdale picked it up and has cleaned it up and done some minor repairs. Originally a bucket seat headrest car that the original owner had the selling dealer remove!!! If it was mine I`d repaint it Plum, restore the headrests and put a set of chrome wheels or super deluxe wheel covers w/ redlines on it. Nice start to what could be a dandy car Tom

LMAO

There is an excellent start to what could be a dandy `66 GS (if the color is OK with you) running on Ebay right now. See my post for the item number, Tom Mooney

Ebay item #290878266827 Eyeballed this car yesterday. If anyone has a serious interest send a PM and I should be able to answer most questions. Car is, for the most part, untouched and legit. Tom Mooney

Is there a tech adviser who covers the `65 models? Like, someone who REALLY knows the `65 models and we could use as a "source"?? Maybe we could conjure one up on the internet...:confused::confused:... :rolleyes: ... ;):eek::eek:....:mad: Thanks Jim Tom Mooney BTW Dont think the factory installed `65 Wonderbar came with a foot switch...but I`ll have to check my sources

Hydraulic hammering in the fuel line. Pull up an image of a `66 A/C fuel pump and it will be apparent how Buick changed the pump to deal with the problem. Hope this helps, Tom

I have both AM and AM-FM models available. I may also have a Wonderbar model but would need to check the stash. Please send me a PM, thanks, Tom Mooney

PM sent pending pics, thanks, Tom Mooney

I posted the following in a previous thread regarding rechroming Buick wheels.. "The wheels dont rechrome well. The platers usually grind/buff out the parting line between the painted center and chrome rim and the rechroming process leaves the wheels looking "wavy". It`s pretty easy to pick off the replates. I have two cars with replated wheels (done by previous owners) and I have found they dont hold up nearly as well to the moisture and temp cycles of the midwest. They have a tendency to pit/rust much more quickly than the originals. Perhaps that is due to a nickel/nickel /chrome plate as opposed to the original copper/nickel/chrome. I dont do show cars so ultimate luster is not my priority. I try to find the best originals I can and properly maintain them. The `66-`67 wheels were very poorly plated as new and are the hardest to find in excellent original condition. Even then, the chrome often has a grainy appearance and lacks the luster of the original `64-`65 plate. Say a prayer the replates are being done in Mexico" I made the comment about the plating being done in Mexico because it is my understanding the platers there are still using copper in the process as there are fewer environmental concerns in Mexico. Rob, did this plater use nickel/nickel/chrome or were the wheels done in copper/nickel/chrome?? I know others have posted satisfactory results, maybe I am too picky, but the wheels pictured look wavy and the chromed surface of the individual spokes look over prepped so they are not flat anymore. If an owner is looking for more glitz or "pop" it is impossible to beat freshly plated wheels but this confirms my opinion that the replates just dont look "right". At least it appears they didnt wipe out the raised parting line where the chrome and painted areas meet. Rob, nothing personal, not trying to pick on YOUR wheels, just trying to repeat a general point about the wheels and plating for the benefit of others who are considering writing a fairly large check. Kudos on choosing the correct style wheels for your `65 as that is probably the most important hurdle. Tom Mooney

Use a teflon thread sealant. It comes in a tube and has the consistency of tooth paste. The tape will work but some folks get confused as to the correct direction to apply it (believe it or not it is an easy mistake to make!) and I have seen the tape block the opening to a pressure sensor if not properly wrapped or when a piece breaks off. Tom Mooney

Not 100% positive on the `63 (never owned a black interior car) but the `65 models with black interior came from the factory with a silver headliner. Tom

A fluctuating dwell reading is usually an indication the bushings are worn in the distributor. This would explain why your point plate seems sloppy and your timing is jumping around (inconsistent point gap). High miles on the engine before rebuild? I still run points in my old cars but if the Pertronix system is like the old Perlux conversion then the distributor should still be in proper mechanical condition to maintain the proper air gap between the magnets and pickup. Probably be a good idea to have your distributor rebuilt if the bushings are indeed worn. Tom Mooney

If the car was originally equipped with sentinel there should be a small hole in the left lower dash access cover for the switch to control sentinel operation. Body color wheels was an option. I have seen several over the years, Tom Mooney

If there is exhaust leaking from the choke tube (thru the manifold) then the tube is no good and when attached to the carb choke housing will foul the mechanism. I have rarely seen a replacement tube although they do exist, probably not worth the expense and pain to install. Install an electric choke conversion. Tom Mooney

Hi Sean, The 425 was made available during the `63 model year on the Wildcat and Riviera. I have seen a wholesale car order form after that date which lists the 425 for both models but not for the Electra. I thought since you mentioned the Electra you may have a zone letter or dealer letter announcing the availability of the 425 on the Electra. At this point, unless there is some documentation, it would appear the 425 was not available on the `63 Electra. Thanks, Tom

Sean, Excellent job on decoding the info, especially the carb tag info. Do you have any documentation of the availability of the 425 in the Electra models? My info shows the 425 engine was only available in the Riviera and Wildcat, thanks, Tom Mooney

Moose, Sounds like your problem may indeed be the transmission. Just carefully disassemble it, clean it, and re-lube it. For lube use white lithium grease. Tom Mooney