D-a-n-i-e-l

the switch grounds out when the door opens. This means you most likely have a wire grounded and pulling out the switch will most likely not fix your issue

I was looking to do some work in the NV area, but I am back in Washington state now. I will be back out there permenatly around August.

the low oil switch is a basic float switch, take it out when you change your oil and make sure it is not just gunked up. also use a multimeter and check for open and closed contacts. If the contacts are not switching the switch is bad

This is a shot in the dark, well kind of, lug nuts loose?

was it when braking, speeding up, constant speed, or all the above?

There are a few ways to go about adding/changing the radio out of the 88 and 89, but none of them are very appealing to me. The space that the tape is in is not wide enough for a standard din radio. You may be able to find a stock radio out of an other make that would fit in the space. But for me I like the controls of the touch screen, and I have went to great lengths to add a cd/dvd player and improve the sound to high end quality

PSST... JIM The reason biofuels are not the answer is; even if we put all of our resoures into them it would only make up around 3% of our fuel consumption as a nation. Brazil does use Bio fuels for almost all there fuel, but they have less people and less vehicles per person. Brazil also has a much higher production of ag products per person. Thus making it possible for them to be almost indepentent of fossil fuel. And as for water providing the energy, this is what everyone is missing, you put electricity into the water to seperate the molicules. Yhe amount of energy it takes to seperate the water is MORE than what is released in the combustion of the hydrogen. And if these are running around were you are Tammy, find one and see if they will let you monitor a tank of gas. if the car is really getting such great fuel economy, I would see no reason why they would not want to let you see it for yourself.

Last time. It takes more energy to seperate water (H2O) into hydrogen (H) and Oxygen (O) than can be produced by recombinding them back into water. (The proccess of combution of Hydrogen and Oxygen make once again water) Also were are you getting the power to seperate the water? Battery and alternator? What charges them? The engine driven by the FUEL? No mater what the fuel is you have losses and can not put out as much energy as you put in. Basically to even have a chance of working your car running on hydrogen would have to get cooler as it runs. NOT warmer, so when he can produce cold fire I would buy it. Also, Tamy if your guy is for real or wants to have a chance to prove he and his science fair project are for real. Have him contact me. If he can show me it works I will buy 20 on the spot. (That is one for each person in my detatchment) Have him start with disproving most of these laws of thermal dynamics http://www.emc.maricopa.edu/faculty/farabee/BIOBK/BioBookEner1.html Tammy I know it sounds good but please do not buy into it. I would love if it were true or even possible.

Just keep in mind that additives change the combution properties, wich our engines can handle better than newer higher combution ratio engines can. Just something to chew on before over doing the additives

do you have a cat on the car? and do a tune up.

One other thing, adding a hydrogen combution to your gas engine would produce a large amount of water that would take away from the lubercation properties of the fuel, and likely get into your oil. Not to mention the difrence in combution properties. Most deffinately producing knocking or too much pressure, one or the other (I can not remember the combustion properties of Hydrogen vs gas).

Tammy and everyone else even thinking about this, I wish more than anything I could condone this or many other "gas saving" products on the market. BUT, the fact remains this is not the solution to gas mileage. Here are the fact on why this will not work the way they would like you to believe. 1) It takes more energy to seperate water (H2O) into hydrogen (H) and Oxygen (O) than can be produced by recombinding them back into water. (The proccess of combution of Hydrogen and Oxygen make once again water) 2) As stated earlier you can neither create or destroy energy, just change its form. PERIOD! I am sorry but electrolysis of water is not the answer. Now if you are really interested in saving gas/fuel and helping out with the use of oil the only valid option right now is bio-decil and E-85 fuels. Now the Reatta could be modified to use E-85, even with the supercharger, but these are still not the answer. Even if we put all of our corn, soy, and other produce to produce these two fuels it would not cover more than 3% of our nations fuel consumption. Hydrogen powered cars are a wonderful idea, but the fact remains that our current answer of mass producing hydrogen is to burn natral gas. Yes this is much cleaner, but we would still be dependent on fossil fuel. Last thing. Electric cars, This is the most likely answer to our nation's/world's fuel issues. With the invent of 20%+ effetiant solar cells the average person could drive 5-10 miles per day (parking outside) with no outside fuel source. But we would all still need a reliable long distance vehicle. Once again, I am sorry to burst anyone's bubble but most energy is not free. Also remember that there were people selling bihydrogenoxide for like $10 per gallon and made well over a million dollars. This is just an other name for water

OK, Let's start with what have you done with the car. These cars are special, but the workings of the engine control and most other systems are basicly the same as any other GM 3800 engine of the time period.

The larger wheel probably made it lighter, (less rubber) the exhuast would not make but a 5lb increase. The teves being changed out would have save a decent amount of weght but they then added the ABS assembly so that is probably close to breaking even. Do bolth cars have the same options? 16 way seats, sunroofs? anything of the like?

I will tell you after the tune is complete, but as of right now it has been getting 22-23 total mpg. That is on one tank. I do know after I put a cat back on it went up significantly but that tank is not finished and I have not driven it for 50 days. There are a couple things yoiu can do to save gas withthe supercharged engine, I will post on them over the next couple months after the tune is completed. Keep in mind that the engines (supercharged and NA) have the same bore and stroke. The valves open and close a bit diffrently, but for the most part I would be willing to bet my gas milage only changes 1-3 MPG (if I am driving normally and keeping my lead foot out of it) when all is said and done. But that is still to be seen. Like I said I have a few things to try once the tune is done

use the Reatta oil sensor. I would just get a new one but either way. most of the sensors other than the oil are interchangeable but make sure you make a list of what ones you use. The person doing the tune will need the info. I went with all the Reatta sensors just to keep it as simple as possible. Make sure you get the fuel rail and injectors off the donor engine. I did mention as much as I could in that other post, but make sure you read the whole thing. There were a couple times I was reminded of missed points, although I think I put them back in the first post entry.

Here it goes: engine w/supercharger accessory mounting brackets altinator power steering pump and resivoir complete throttle body assembly Also 92-95 supercharged engines will work. the 94-5 had a few improvemnets over the 92-3. I will that the 93 park avenue has a throttle cable bracket that includes a slot for the tv cable (it sure made my life easier) Here is a post I was working on and will go threw and update when I get home. http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Main/109640/Number/477092#Post477092 The post from TrofeoSC was very good, and he must have a very nice shop and alot of experience. I did my whole swap in my garage, so basically any one with the will and a few tools could repeat it.

Nic, I had the same issue, it even got my ac retrofitted for free. The car would not blow cool air while it was sitting still. It was the 5A fuse to the fan. I never would have guess because everything else worked. Just an Idea.

Nic, Sorry I almost forgot the second part. The reprogramming is just the rewriting of a new or old chip. It is not too difficult to do with the right tools and a little experience. (so I am told) As far as having yours reprogrammed: 0. get a hold of Ryan 1. disconnect your battery 2. remove ECM 3. remove two screws holding the Prom cover 4. press latches down on either side of factory prom 5. place factory prom on the moats.net adapter (sent from Ryan) 6. Place newly programmed chip on the adapter 7. insert adater and prom into ECM and replace everything in rverse order 8. test the changes to ensure proper funtions One other thing, there is no need for a new prom if you buy the adapter and chip. Pluss you are a better man if you have the skills to unsoldier the old prom chip.

Nic, GMtuners.com Email them/him. My reprogram was $45 pluss $45 in parts. I would pay the extra $45 for the adapter and chip, it just makes the whole thing easier. His prices may have changed by now but he was $250 cheaper than any body else a year ago.

yes they are better at protection but not really worth the money. If you want to run a good synthetic use supertech from walmart. It is made by Penzoil/quaker. I have used it fo the past five years and have had no issues, pluss it is a whole lot cheaper to use. Also who ever makes their oil filters also make them for napa, carquest, schucks, and parts pluss.

your out put from the alarm wil hook into the relay. Also when you hook in to the relay input I would place a diode in the line (prior to were you hook into) to prevent back feeding the BCM. A diode cost less than a buck your BCM cost $80+. Radioshack sells one that handels like 3 amps. I am sure that is more than enough to carry the load from the BCM signal wire.

what kind of internal locks does it have? And is the battery charged? If the locks are smooth and the battery is dead then call a lock smith. If there is any kind of lip on the locks or if the batery is charged and it has push button power locks then I suggest a stiff piece of metal rod (hanger but they are usally a bit flimsy) and wide beveled tool. Pry the top of the door and use the metal rod to actuate the locks. For the metal rod I have found that the metal off of a wire plant holder thing works well. Did you like the holder thing refrence. I do understand that it might me frustrating but it can be done with a bit of patients.

Well just a piece of info. It is considered rude to even talk about it in Germany. Seems to be inviting a repeat of history, but then we, as Americans, seem to ignore it when it happens in countries in Africa.

Try wiping your doo seals off the night before a freeze, or use a little bit of salt mixed in with a silicon/white lithium grease on the door seal. Use just a light film and clean off as soon as tempitures rise above the freezing point. I guess for you that may be every other six months.