D-a-n-i-e-l

The CTS does not and will not kill your engine when the car is running. It just sets off the warring of high temp. I would put my money on your ICM, I have had the issue a few times.

I woul not think that the timing chain would be completely off, for the car somewhat runs. I would imagine that the engine would not start at all with out the timing chain. Now I do believe your chain may hae skiped a tooth, but I would exhaust all other options before accessing the timing chain. Have you tried the ICM, CPS, and cam sensor?

Did it shake prior to putting it in gear? If so I would start with checking the ignition components, and timingchain,bBecause it sure sounds like a timming issue. If it was after placing the Reatta into gear I would start with the TCC.

Yes the ICM is under the coil pack.

Sounds to me like a bad ingnition control module. I have had a few do act up the same way. That is until I did the upgrade, and I have not had a problem sense.

Just to add a little note if any one is seriously thinking about this. I would not do it on an 88/9 you must loose the diagnostics and all engine information from the crt. The other functions work just fine. The engine is controlled by a piggy-back ECM. I want to do this swap but I am thinking of doing it in a 90/1 (perferably in a convertable) but it will have to wait until I get back to the DC area because I have a busy 6-7 months whrn I get back state side. As for these not being reliable or long life engines, I would imagine GM has put a bit of thought into the new versions of the Northstar. If they all craped out at 80-100,000 mile I think some one would have complained by now. Exspecialy with the longer warrenties that GM is now offering. Last but not least any one on the east coast want to donate a 90/1 and cost of parts to me? You can keep the car I just want to do the swap.

no it does not work. there is no way a 12v 10 amp fan can force enough air in to the system to make a differance, and if it could you would still have to deliver more fuel to compensate for the air flow. that means you still have to replace injectors and reprogram fuel tables in your ECM. Good enough explaination?

thank you very much

Does any have the ability to mesure both the 88/9 and 90/1 wheel emblems? I am kind of curious to the size diffrence.

I am running them off a mtx thunder 102. I am also working on a few other things to improve the sound with out losing the touchscreen radio, but there will be no progress on that until I get back stateside from Iraq

diamond audio and they sound great but they are 6.5". I had to trim a bit off the rear mounts and make a mdf adapter for the front.

Or you could take a twelve volt power suply to the trunk release switch. - to the body ground and then tap the black wire on the back of the trunk release switch with the positive.

Blazer I have had the same message many times. I love to tinker with my Reatta and see just how it reacts to diffrent things. The electrical message comes up when I dis connect diffrent boxes (ecm, radio, the two under the consel) I suggest checking all the connections to your control boxes.

www.moates.net has every thing you need to get started. I have been told tunercat (tunercat.com) works well. I am just preparing to take on the chip tuning aspect of moding. I have found that it will cost 4-5 hundred to get started but after that I can reprogram most obd1 chips. As F14 said, if this is a one time thing, I would go with Ryan @ GMtuners.com.

That is something I am also going to look into if this idea does not work out.

I am always looking for a way to improve the sound in my vehicles, and up to this point the best sound I have been able to atain from my Reatta has been so so. If you are into high end car audio then you have most likely been faced with the issue of bypassing the factory radio in your 88-89 Reatta. I have not yet made the sacrifice to remove the factory radio. I do not want to lose the ability to control the stereo from the touch srean. That would to me take away from the Reatta experience. Well I may have found a way to retain the use of the touch screan, while using a aftermarket radio mounted almost any where you see fit. I need to know a couple things to find out if this will work or not. I am in Iraq and do not have access to my Reatta, how ever I have found myself with a bit of down time, hense the Reatta brain storming. If some one happens to be working on or around the radio-brain area, could you dis connect the radio harness and tell me if the TCC controls seem to react (I know the radio will not react but the TCC may still aknowlege the touch pressure). Also I need to know how many button options there are when the radio is disconnected from the system. By the way, what I am looking into is using a steering wheel interface adapter with the touch screan, to control almost any after market head unit or a number of other things. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Also (for an other option I am kicking around) does any one know the signel type for the comunication between the TCC and radio brain?

I put my money on gas mileage

GMtuners.com,his email is there. he stays busy so E-mail is the best way to ge a hold of him.

if you want to tweek your chip talk to GMtuners.com. He is cheaper and has a much more indepth knowlege than you will get from "aftermarket chip companies"

Make sure your highbeams are off. Just an idea

dis conect your pump motor wiring then drve to your hill. by the time you get there you will probably have gotten in a wreck or have lost all intrest in driving your Reatta down the hill or any where else for that matter. If you still had brake lights on your pannel that means (on a working system) your pump was still getting power and providing some kind of boost, even if it was minimal. Like I said disconnect the the pump motor wire and then come back and tell me if you have the same opinon.

The way I remember the brake system works with out boost is: you have limited front and no back braking, with the loss of boost. I have driven my Reatta (30 miles the night I bought it) without boost and it would not stop in any kind of a reliable manner. At least with a normal vaccuum boosted system all brakes still work and will stop the car in a much shorter distance. But back to the purpose of this post. Does any one have access to pinouts for the ABS computer in the Reatta and any other GM ABS systems. I know it is a long shot but I am hoping for just a bit of rewiring or even a matching pinout from an other model GM ABS. The other question I have is: does the ABS computer comunicate with the BCM or ECM?

I understand our system and agree it is very misunderstood. But I am planning on upgrading all four corners of the brake system when I return to the states. To go along with that I thought why not try to upgrade to a newer mastercylinder and try to keep an ABS system. The biggest downfall of this system is lack of brakes when the pump and accumulator got out. I am amazed that no one has convinced GM to replace the system by recalling it. Every one here can probably agree with that. On vaccuum boosted systems you do not completely loose use of brakes you just get a hard pedal, and can still stop pretty well. Any way I am just starting to kick around a few ideas for upgrades/replacements

Once again I noticed a colplaint about our Teeves system. I had to replace mine less than a week after buying my Reatta. Ouch! these things list for as much as I paid for the car. Well I pulled one out of a junk Caddy. After two or three evenings I finally construced a woring system. So has any one tossed around the idea of using a diffrent mastercylinder/ABS system? If I remember correctly the Teeves was replaced in the 90 Reatta, but the 90 Reatta still used the same ECM as our 88/89s. I am sure that there is a way to mod and replace our system with off-the-shelf GM stock parts or system. With my plans of a calipier upgrade I think it may be a good time to research a change in the sysetem. Any ideas on this topic?

I know that our ln3 has been mated with a supercharer and did fairly well. I am tossing around the idea of throwing a turbo on to our stock LN3. I am almost to the point were I can do the full conversion on my own (to include programming of the ECM). I have a extra LN3 and most of the equipment to run it on the bench. I am just wondering if the engine itself would hold up and be reliable without modifing the internals. Also if proven reliable would anyone be interested in a bolt-on turbo kit for our Reattas?