D-a-n-i-e-l

You could fit a 19" with almost no tire, and look best for show. Although 18" would give the best of both worlds. Great handeling in the turns and enough side wall to flex a bit on take off. pluss they would fill in a lot of the wheelwell.

I want one or three

Glad to hear it Phil, I am very interested in how your six speed swap goes.

OK I a ninty will be easier to do, I ass-umed that you were doing the 88. The 90 will lend itself to a better swap.

You may want to just buy a vett rolling undercarage and put the Reatta body on it. There is a lot to do or attempt to do this swap. As stated earlier you will have to piggyback a different ECM. Doing this you will lose much of the TCC. There was a northstar swap done. There is an earlier thread on it with the web site of the company that did it. If yo are serious about this swap I would go with a 90/91. I truely believe that the TCC is the heart of the 88/89s and hav went to great lengths in my upgrades to keep mine. Now if I were you I would pick an engine or at least managment system from a OBD1 vehicle this way you could make many of the sensors preform correctly withthe stock BCM and ECM. You would still have to run a piggy back ECM but would retain much of the TCC ect.

a coil will act/be bad when hot, and when cold build enough resitance to operate decently. You need to check the coil when hot and cool if there is a large diffrence in resistance say more than 50% then it is most likely bad.

That is a great idea, but I would still plan on replacing/repairing the compressor in the future. The electrical components were designed to run on a normal single blow element, so what ever the cause it will continue to decline until it is completely gone. I really do think that the slo blow is a good short term fix. When does it blow? at start up of the compessor or after the compressor has been running?

Sorry kind of miss understood. The intake material (that come with the felpro gasket) is black RTV.

I would go with fel-pro for an intake seal. The number for your seal should have changed by now do to improvments that have come about over the years. A good GM parts person can direct you to the right part number, but gaskets are one of the few things I prefer to get aftermarket, if Felpro is the one making it.

I would start with the clutch for the compressor. It is what that fuse is powering, if I remember right. The bad news is if that is the case, yo will most likely be replacing the pump/compressor. I hope for you I am wrong about the circuit.

A ball joints and tierods will usally pop (when bad). Strut possibility, but not too likely. I would look into the rack and pinion. But as most of us know there is a certain science to diagnosing steering issues. I realy suggest a good alignment shop and indepth description of the issue with the tech (not a machine operator A TECH)

Do the CPS really go bad that often? I mean there are no moving parts. The only thing to make them go bad would be heat and/or misalignment. Am I missing something here, it just does not seem like a wear-out part to me.

Some service shops still have access to R-12 but I would save the money and convert to r134a. The cooling system is not dramatically affected by the change, and it is much cheaper than finding and maintaning r-12.

I know there has to be a better way to change the marker lights. Especially the ones close to the front tires. I had to remove the intake and bend my hand in ways that I never thought possible. And it only took an hour. I tried from the bottom, the tire well, and from the front withthe head light out. none worked. Has any one found a better way to do this?

I would start with figuring out eactly what circuit you are looking at and what the circuit is doing. The gound being there sounds to me like you have a path to ground through a electrical component when that component is energized. Kind of like seeing a ground on the positive side of your dome light when it is on. close the door and that path to ground now seems to have switched to positive even knowing all that happened is the path to ground was completed when the light was on. Your issue is most likely not relays. interior relays very rarely go bad. I will take a look at the system and see what components are involved in both systems.

did you check the body fuse? Does anything else stop working? Door locks? things like that?

Kat, Did you get it fixed?

What year Reatta? I know the 88' and 89' have a button to the right of the fog lights that wil cause exactly what you are experiancing. I am not sure if it came on all the years or not. Hope this is all your issue is. If not you are going to have a bit of trouble shooting to do.

Yo did inspire me to try my cobra R rims again. I bout new lugs and put the rims on. For the most part the shake is gone, but I will give them a few days to see if they start up again. I wish they would work this time. I really want to instal the Camarro brakes I already bought. I really do not think they will fit under the 15" factory rims.

Did you check for voltage at the compressor clutch conection? If it is like th 88-89 then there is not a schematic of just the fuse block. For the most part, the fuses are found in the electrical trouble shooting section of the service manual. In there given system chart. Also, unless they went backwards on there sensors there should be a low "pressure" code.

I have mustang 114.3 mm on 5 and yes they do fit, but after 3,000 they started to vibrate. I tried eveything I could think of, balance, rotation, triple chcking the bearings, and refacing rotors and changing pads. Nothing fixed it. I went back to stock and no mor vibration. Just a warning. And I do know others have used the stang wheels with no side effects. Just do not be surprised when they start to vibrate.

That is great info and I may use it when I do my final tune

I would have it seviced before summer if you like cold air. Your issues is bacward from what should be going on if a AC system is operating in it's lower capacity area. The only thing that would make sense to me is that the low pressure sensor has a max value that it can handle. I mean when the pressure gets too hight the computer reads it as low. But I would say that this is extreemly unlikely. When you bring it to be serviced they will most likely try to switch you to 134a, If you are not compfortable with the change it may take you a minute to find a shop with R12 on hand. Also you could wait until summer hits and check the pressure yourself but I would just get it serviced now that way when your shop puts the minimum amount of charge on it you will not have the issue of low pressure issue in the fall and winter.

That is great info. Do yoiu do your own tuning?

Here is the easiest and quickest engine upgrade in my opinion, but I would use a series two supercharged engine. It has a bit more power. http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=476731