D-a-n-i-e-l

Oh yeah, there are no bady kits for the Reatta. Messure the body up and find a common car that matches the dimentions, then look at body kits for that car.

If you are truely serious about adding a computer or replacing the TCC I would start with a carputer (http://store.mp3car.com/Mp3Car_Custom_Car_Computer_Preassembled_Systems_p/ccc-121.htm) and also a touch screen with VGA input. this would be much easier to accomplish and far more expandable/intergaradable. As for the programming I have a buddy who is suppost to take a shot at reverse engineering the thing this summer. Has anyone contacted delco? I was surprised how easy it was to get the prints for the radio brain along with most of the radio family's prints.

nitrogen is an noble (inert) gas it is unlikely that it would have any foul effect on the bladder.

nitrogen is an noble (inert) gas it is unlikely that it would have any foul effect on the bladder.

there is something wrong with your car, or you sit in stop and go your whole commute

there is something wrong with your car, or you sit in stop and go your whole commute

The fan control also comes on a few caddys and couple other cars.

The fan control also comes on a few caddys and couple other cars.

ME 2

ME 2

I just did a quick search and between autozone.com and partsamerica.com I found (using the most expensive parts) all of your brake pads and rotors fo about $180. the only thing that this does not include is calipers, wich should not need replacing.

I just did a quick search and between autozone.com and partsamerica.com I found (using the most expensive parts) all of your brake pads and rotors fo about $180. the only thing that this does not include is calipers, wich should not need replacing.

Brake parts are made to wear out. but if you really want to have a warrentied part, go to autozone or any of the other major parts chains and buy all life time warrentied parts. The warrenties do not cover normal wear, but if they fail any time prior they will repace them for free. As fare as lasting past 36k, I would buy new rotors and high end ceramic pads. 36k is the expected wear out time for most braking systems.

Brake parts are made to wear out. but if you really want to have a warrentied part, go to autozone or any of the other major parts chains and buy all life time warrentied parts. The warrenties do not cover normal wear, but if they fail any time prior they will repace them for free. As fare as lasting past 36k, I would buy new rotors and high end ceramic pads. 36k is the expected wear out time for most braking systems.

Just checking I would hate to see some one replace/fix things that did not need replaced/fixed

Just checking I would hate to see some one replace/fix things that did not need replaced/fixed

Did y clear the code before you started repairing/replacing parts? The code could be old or already fixed. I would write them down and then drive the car after clearing them. This will let you see if they set once again and are still valid.

Did y clear the code before you started repairing/replacing parts? The code could be old or already fixed. I would write them down and then drive the car after clearing them. This will let you see if they set once again and are still valid.

In the climate mode of the crt, press warm and off at the same time. this will put you in the diagnostic mode. use the yes and no buttons to move through the options. also go to reatta.net and look at the diagnostic page. A 88 is pretty much the same as the 89. You can also request access to the service manual through the site.

In the climate mode of the crt, press warm and off at the same time. this will put you in the diagnostic mode. use the yes and no buttons to move through the options. also go to reatta.net and look at the diagnostic page. A 88 is pretty much the same as the 89. You can also request access to the service manual through the site.

you turn it the opposite way that it pulls to release the tention. This way it tightens when pulled to release tention

I would believe that they would be, but I would just buy it new. I a certain, being a GM vehicle, that it is most likely a common solenoid.

Check the fuses, but I also agree with Barney. Get in the manual and start trouble shooting the issue.

I have not done the door lock solinoid, but it should not be too bad. Be careful taking the door pannel off. The plastic pegs that succure the panel are often brittle and hard to find replacements for. How is the solinoid resposible for setting the door warning, guess I will have to look at the wiring diagram.

This warning is often found when the E&C communication is interrupted. Tis is to say the ECU is not communicating with the BCM the radio brain, TCC control box, or even the insterment panel. I would start by checking for lose connections to each componnent, or in my case put back what ever I had pulled out of the system at that time. E&C= entertainment and climate