D-a-n-i-e-l

I am all about finding alturnative energies and I am a fan of Tesla. As far as the electric car idea, were are you getting the energy to charge it? Answer, mainly coal burning pwer plants. Not much gain there. The real goal here is to reduce polution, right? Biofuels are a wonderful idea, but even if all our nations produce went to them we would only power 1-3% of our vehicles. Next water powered car. If they ever become possible, what will we drink? I mean we can barely water our crops, and California and Arizona are already asking to barrow water from other states. Hmmm not quite the answer. Hydrogen powered cars. Our best source of Hydrogen is burning natural gas, not a great source. The only real answer is one of two things. One drive less. Or two solar powered cars and sosiety. Solar panels are not effeciant enough, yet, to provide reliable power for a car, but they are reliable enought to provide electrical power for our nation. There is an article that states, if wee would have spent the same amount of money on solar panel placed in the southwestern states our nation would not have to produce power by any other means. With that plan you could justify going to all electric cars, for normal day to day driving. Although you would want to keep a gas powered one around for long trips.

I wish I knew. I got pick up by DA (department of the army) to go be a recruiter. I am trying desprately to stay in this area, but that is not likely to happen. I will be in North Carolina from June 28 to August 8th, but I will not know were my next station is until some time aroun the 14th of June. Then I will have to be there 5 weeks later.

Last time you change the fuel filter?

Nope. He said, "First offer over $1500." If the army would just leave me put I could go buy it, but they want to play with my stationing again, so all my extra cash is going to doing a few home improvements. Because the housing market is not in my favor at the moment.

Hey does any one want to give me $1500 so I can buy that black/tan Reatta? OK so this was most likely a waste of post space, but everyone is getting that extra tax money right?

I agree, but I do not recall were the lines cross that clost to the tranny. Guess I will have to look when I change out the Teeves.

OK for the last time!!!! It is physically possible to run a car by splitting water in to Hydrogen and Oxygen. <span style="font-size: 20pt">BUT</span> conservation of energy law says, and it is a law not a theory, "energy can niether be created or distroyed". So here is the short and sweet. It takes more energy to seperate the water into Hydrogen and Oxygen than you get when you burn Hydrogen to make water. Basically if you ran this off your car battery,and put all the energy back into the battery you would drain your battery. Even if there were no lose of energy in the transfer of heat to mechanical and then to electrical you woul still not come out ahead. One last thing. Water injection is used in some engines. Water is injected into the cylinder right after the power stroke and befor the exhuast stroke. This is usally done in diesel engines and does save fuel by using the heat that is alredy there, but it is not burning the water just making steam out of it. This prccess requires re-engineering the engine to include the additional stroke, in other words the cam spins one time for every three of the crank. <span style="font-size: 17pt"><span style="font-weight: bold">THE END!</span></span>

I would go with components. The infinities are a good speaker. If I were you I would go with 6.5" all the way around. It will improve your stage a bit, but yo would have to trim the front mounts just a little. For you being on a budget I would go with two sets of these. I have used these and they are great speakers. front and rear(http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=19204) If you do not want to trim the front I would go with these. I have not used this modle, but I have never been let down buy any MBquart speaker I have used Front (http://www.cardiscountstereos.com/catalog%20page.asp?Product+%23=FSA213) Rear (http://www.cardiscountstereos.com/catalog%20page.asp?Product+%23=FSA216)

Only switch the box if you are going to get an amp. I would first upgrade to an 4 chanel amp. You can get a good deal for a V12 alpine or old MTX on Ebay. Either one would suffice. Next I would find some good components for the rear and for the front. The new Infinity referance sound good and come in 2 ohm, so you can squeeze all the power out of your amp and not risk blowing it. Next I would go with a single 10" or 12" in the trunk (facing the rear gives a 3db gain without doing anything else) I would try for one of these, the wattage may sound a bit low, but the wattage rating is well under what they really put out. #1 230247862063 #2 280224015928 (ebay numbers) I ahve used both these amps in the past and either one would be well worth $150 used, but you should be able to get either one at $100, and still have money to buy new Infinitie reference from many differnt audio shops/stores. I

I "believe" the cam sensor is for the back up fuel/ignition system. If something happens to the crank position sensor or other components, I believe it uses the cam sensor to "limp" home.

OK short and sexy explaination of why 6x9's are not a good choice when building a high end sound system. When a lot of power is applied to the speaker the outside/longer-side of a oval speaker moves slower (or lags) than a the inner. This causes distortion at lower levels than a round speaker. Although I do agree that they do provide better more robust sound at lower power systems, or when tring to get better sound out of a OEM or internal amped deck.

If you are planning on adding subs I would stick with the 6" in the rear. A 6x9 has its place and that is not in high end sound, unless you want to spen $250+ for one set of 6x9's. I would get into it more but I am a bit short of time. OK As Phil said the brain is in the center console right by the driver seat. (there is a thread on spesifics of getting to it) Now for a high end sound you with out adding a seperate volume control you will need to get one or two high end powerful amps that are well over the wattage rating of the mid/high combo you are looking to use. The reason for this oversizing is that no matter what factory brain/amp you use you will have some sort of bass roll off. The best radio brain I have found for a good soilid sound system is out of a 96' +/- Eldarado with the Bose system, found mounted to rear sear. Key things you gain while using this brain are: Factory low level out puts that can run straight to aftermarket amps with spicing RCA/phono cables and no need to convert the signal (saves a bit of cash), less bass roll off than other units. Now the down side, you lose your balance control, but you still have fad front to back. I would take a trip to a junk yard, to grab the caddy radio and while you are there make sure you get the wire harnesses that connect to the brain. This wil enable you to add aux inputs and leave the Reatta harness intact. One last thing to keep in mind. The amplifiers you choose are what will make or break your system. If you are looking for high end sound do not skimp on the amps. If you must spend less on the other areas of the system. As far as good high end amps here are a few Alpine,if you get there high end, JL, Memphis, MTX, highend JBL, Kicker high end, and Rockford high end (but they are over priced). Also I would stay away from sony expliod, pioneer, kenwood, low end rockford, lightning audio, powerakoustic, most any low end walmart specials, and best buy "good deals". If I can help in any way let me know.

Because I do, and I have had them ballanced rotated twice. The Mustang hub is slightly larger and not large enough for hubcentric rings. ut I have been thinking of having them machined large enough to make use of a hubcentric ring.

Sorry it took so long, but here it is and my money is on the oil level sensor plug. Here are the pics. These are from the front of the engine

A cammaro one fits nicely and you get the dual look, but for a muffler that fits I would go talk with a local muffler shop. There are many that would look stock and even some that would probably match up with the Reatta. Like I said talking with some one that does it daily is a good bet, and advice is usally free there.

You should be able to get to the wires by removing the passenger side tire and a jack. If you want to find them in the engine compartment I would look at the electrical trouble shooting manual to ID the wire color and then find them at the fire wall conection.

I would suggest a mufler shop to bend the pipes and a cammaro single to dual looks good and fits nicely. All manifolds from 88 FWD to 95 FWD will work for the Reatta. A down pipe and cat can be baught from autozone for about $100. I just got one about 3 months ago. Unless you want it stock, then $2K is what you will most likely be looking at.

The factory fuel prime is a green conection that is near the firewall next to the mastercylinder. I am going out in a minute to look and make sure it is the oil level sensor conection and not some thing else.

I believe it may be the oil level sensor, But I will have to go check

The Reatta is 5 x 115, wich, from center is .3mm off from a 5x114.3. Althogh a mustang/114.3mm will bolt up but may cause other issues, such as vibration and lug nuts comming lose. On the other hand people have used them with no side effects.

That makes sense the BCM grounds the relay throught the dimmer switch, but I di not think it was seperate from the headlight switch. Glad to hear it is fixed.

OK here it goes. Disconnect the head light switch, the headlight door switch, pull the high/low relay, disconnect the headlight door module (found under the relay center) and BCM 1)Mesure resistance of the yellow wire from in back of the switch to the yellow wire on BCM, then to the yellow wire on the headlight door module, and to the yellow wire on the high/low relay.(all should be close to 0 ohms) 2) mesure yellow wire at the headlight switch to yellow with black stripe at the headlight door switch. Measure this in both directions: ie swith your multimeter leads for this is a diode and wire check. (should measure high risistance/ohms or almost open in one direction and low or almost no resistance in the other) 3) Measure the yellow wire at the headlight switch to ground. (it should measure infinate ohms or open) If every thing thus far is checking out you have no wiring issues. 4) Reconnect the head light switch. Press the high and low buttons, nothing should happen and the yellow wire should not get hot. (if not your switch is bad) 5)connet the BCM and turn on and off the hi and low lights. the ICP should show hallogen lighs on along with high low beam off annd on. If the yellow wire heats up your BCM is bad. 6)Reconnect headlight door module. Turn high/low lights on and off. If the yellow wire heats up the problem is likely the module, but that is not the only option and we will go over that later if the issue is in this part of the cicuit. 7)reconnect the hi/low relay, turn high/low lights on. If the yellow wire heats up your have a bad relay. 8)Reconnect the headlight door switch and turn on lights. If the yellow wire heats up there is an issue with the switch or wire prior to the headlight door switch. 9) Replace found deffective part and go on your marry way. Let me know what the issue was and if you find it.

wyane were are you at?

OK guys this is not too hard of a problem and should not end in a no answer found! It is not the head light type causing the issue. Ir un the silverstar lights and have no problem. OK what does the yellow wire go to and what is its function? I will cheack tomarrow after my weekly hair cut, if no one ansewrs me. next I did not see any mention of a blown fuse. Only two things cause a blown fuse. 1) short to ground. 2) ading too much poopoo to the circuit. And for the record adding resistance will not burn out a wire or fuse. Although adding arcing will. (remember E=IR or volts=resistance x current). So increased resitance= less watts, wich watts = volts x amps/current so E= amps X 2 x resistance = less E/volts x I/amps= less watts. confused yet? Any way I will lok at the system tomarow and see what the yellow (burning) wire is, for I am sure it is not as difficult as we would like to make it seem.

I wish I had the money, bur U.S.A.R.M.Y. (uncle sam ain't released me yet) and I am getting ready for a move. The car looks great and it is my ideal color combo.