D-a-n-i-e-l

The stock rims do not leave much for clearance. I would look at the dual piston monte carlo brakes from the lat 90s. May work but I have not put more than 2 seconds into the thought for I found them after I did the Camaro brakes

no they atre not identical. They bolt up and look very simular, but have a differant angle in the bend on the arm.

I would be up for something on the west cost.

cell phone/cd/tape all work once the tape play button is pushed. All you need is a tape with no "tape" in it to activate the input.

I am running 255/45/17r on mine with no issues. Speedo is off by 3 MPH at 60 MPH, but that was adjusted with the ECM reprogram.

Have been running mine for 4 or 5 years.

Most common teeves are in the tornado, reatta, riviara, eldorado, deville, and seville. Also found on but common the boniville, lesable, electra, 98, 88, and pontiac safari.

Wow. I would do it all for 500 plus parts, and I would still feel like I was robing you.

Yes it is correct. Yo could most likely add the elderodo and riv on there as well, not 100% sure, but they are all GM "E" body cars. Take it a step further. You can unbolt the sub frame, engine and tranny out of a eldarodo and bolt it in your reatta. (thought about it befor the SC swap.

Disconnect a wheel sensor will disable the ABS. Or fnd a Eldarodo get the brake pedal, mastercylinder, lines, and a flairing tool. The swap is pretty basic.

That is right, no stored snap shot, but why do you need a snap shot when you can see all of it live?

AC will fit fine I kept mine.

SAD

bump, just reviewing things for a new project

Bump

I just lost my EGR. Also if you like the look and function of the original electronics; diagnostics through the heater controls/ CRT I would try to stick with the original ECM. if all you are trying to do is get as much power and performance out of the SCed engines and have no want or care for keeping the original functions, then use a newer PCM. Using the newer PCM makes for a much easier swap also. Me I love my on board CRT and have spent alot of time/money keeping every aspect of it functional, from engine to radio.

The series two is basically the same swap, mechanically. The Reatta ECM can control the Series two with a little rerouting of the plug wires and fuel injector wires, also you must use the OBD1 sensors. All are not too hard to do if you can read a schematic.

Uhm here http://forums.aaca.org/f116/series-one-swap-240868.html

This was already done by F14. It is way more time and money than just swapping the L67 in to the reatta

No not the bellhousing. My 250k sreries one SC is acting up. (about time, as I do rod the heck out of it) I thought about rebuilding the one I have but as I research, price, and locate I have learned that the series two is much more common and easier to find. On the other hand I have many extra accessories for my series ones. What I need to know is if the bolt paterns on the front of the engines are the same. If they are I am certain I can make use of all the extra parts I have, and save $200 on the purchase price of my next motor, by not needing all the extras.

any progress?

I used the OEM with the SC engine for the last 4 years, with no issues. By far the best value.

Take the belt off and check for wobble in the pulleys. Pay close attention to the water pump.

also the ones off a typhoon, syclone, or sc thunderbird fit. They may be the ones that Jon is refffering to. I do not recall the specs any longer.

As I remember the things I used off the reatta engine were oil presure sensor and got rid of the EGR valve (still passes emissions, thanks to being 3700 lbs).