D-a-n-i-e-l

Yes you do as long as you use the original OBD1 sensors.

easiest is a 91-95 doner. The 94/95 has a bit more power and a bigger intake. The newer modles have even more power but require a bit more indepth install.

Sounds like a radio power issue. Check to see if you have +12V on the red and yellow wires going in to the radio brain. If you do then insure you have a good ground to the radio. If bolth are present I would bet you have a bad radio. Also check for a previosly instlled after maket system. This would mean they disconnected the factory radio and inserted a line converter or just ran them to an amp.

Sounds great to me. I will call them tomarrow. No one else I have spoke with even comes close to the price. Usally I get some where around $400-$800.

Or new here: While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at CSK Auto But I sugest a junk yard, Caddies and rivs use the same one.

If you are going through all that, just go to a SC engine. To make a larger cam and everything else worth your while you have to reprogram the ECM to make use of them. Pluss for about the same cost you can get a complete SC engine. Or you can go to a 4.9 caddy V8. This will be my next project, if I can find a cheap Reatta to do it in.

OK this is just a little bit of me throwing my two cents into the well. Lower temp=better MPG period. Your fuel burns at X temp, period. So lower engine temp means higher delta T (temp). This means that your fuel does more work because the temp diffrence is greater. Also this means more power is available. ECM and O2 The O2 sensor does see a bit of a change in V output, but the change is very minor after 120 or so. This is why the ECM changes the loop settings around this temp. The 30 degree diff is not going to affect the O2 sensor enough to change fuel consumption by may be a half MPG.. As far as water in the oil causing issues. Hmmmmm. Even if you change your oil ever 6 months or 6000 miles this is not even a thought in my mind. Unless you let your Reatta sit for a week or more at a time I would assume that the film of oil all throughout the internal engine would prevent any noticeable corrosion. Even with my SC series one with a heavy fuel mixture, I still passed WA state emissions for my 89. Long story short. There is no downs side to a 180 thermostat.

Clean and grease (electrical) the nuetral safety switch connection. Also ensure that the bolt for the switch is tight and readjust the shift cable. All this can be done in 5 minutes and should solve most causes of your issue.

Sounds like the radio brain is having issues, but first I would get an other speaker and hook it into the system. This will insure that you have a radio issue and not a speaker issue. easiest way is to swap the read speakers. If you still have the issue and it did not swap sides it is definately a radio box issue. As stated before there are many vehicles that have a compatible radio, but the EQ versions are not too easy to find. I do have one or two sitting here that I would be willing to seperate with for shipping pluss $15, this covers only my cost when I find one in my favorite yard. If you need further hel just say so.

you can pull the codes by pressing warm and off while in the climate control area. No need for a reader. Just in case you are new to the Reatta world.

The 90' would be easy to mod for a disk changer. The hard one is the 88/89.

95 used the 4T60E

My tranny laster all of four weeks of test (tuning) drive time. In its defense it had 110K. I would try to have it rebuilt if over 80k. Just to give it a fighting chance.

Well worth it. Tranny and engine make for a easy swap pluss yo get the ECM needed to control the newer tranny. A no brainer

In the summer of 1991 I touch a black Reatta. Almost instantly its over protective owner flew out the randown dealership's door and told me I would never be able to afford this car and not to lay one more fingure on it. Being the loving respectfull kid I was, I gave him a one fingure salute and imeadiatley took off running back down the rear alley to save my skin. I had all but forgotten about that amazing car until one day I came upon one sitting in a donation car lot. It had molding floors, beat-up seats, and had not ran in a year. I asked about it and the lot owner said it was an ex-employee's. I called several time for a price and to find out if it was even for sale. He never gave me the answer. Shortly after I left for Iraq. Six months after returning home I ended up at the dealer again. This time I left him with an offer of $2500 and my number. About two weeks later I got a phone call out of the blue saying 2k and it was mine. So long story short I drive mine because I was told I could not.

Bump, any progress?

Here it is. http://forums.aaca.org/f116/prism-cupholder-modified-into-reatta-armrest-255363.html

No I have not got around to it. I do have the holder, it came out of a late 80 early 90's corrola/spectrum. I will get to it one of these days. I also can not find the post from the original person.

LC6 is a great piece of equipment (the best so far) but does not help on the rolloff.

Pins 11, 13, 14 are for input. If they are used for for the CD yo can play a silent cd and paralle an aux input. The are on the plug that would have six pins and one ridge. I can email a pic to yo if yo want. The catch with this is with out a CD player yo have to connect a delco aux device to activate the aux input every time that battery power is lost.

I may be able to come up with anpin in back of your radio aux input for you, but I nee to know if you have an un used

OK, I have been messing around with a couple radios that I have. There is a circuit called the DDL ( dinamic distortion limitting) circuit. If disconnect it suts off. So what if I remove the caps, determained to be the filters, and parralle an other amp chip to the exsisting chips. Would this allow me to use the second chip, of better quality, without rolloff?

I did get the Brake light to work, but not the ABS. I did not spend too much time to the issue, as the rest of the system works great. I will give the ABS light an other shot when I get in to the E&C and othe com buses. This will happen when I get a Oscope. (probably in a year or so)

I did the 91' upgrade to include all the ABS, it is not a hard project. Without having to deal with the wiring of the ABS it should not be too difficult. The only two things I had too modify were the length of the rear lines and add a bit to the brake pedal plate (the one for the brake/Cruise switch). I am sure there will be some small issue, but nothing too hard to over come with a backyard mech tool set.

I am guessing that GM is not releasing that due to the BCM holding the odometer reading.