D Yaros
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Posts posted by D Yaros
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As long as you have the engine block petcocks open there should be no probs with the heat valve when doing a back flush.
On the timing light and dwell meter, I would go with a brand name, not some Chinese Cheapo.
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On the heat riser: Spray it daily with Power Blaster or something similar. Hopefully it may free up to the point you may be able to move it by hand, eventually.
On the flush: I recommend you back flush the engine. First thing to do is drain the system. You may find nothing comes out of the engine block petcocks when opened. If that is the case, stick a wire in the petcock opening to unplug it/them. Then add water and your chemical flush. Let the car run for some time, not just to the point of warming up.
When flushing, make sure you have the heater ON! To back flush, remove one of the heater hoses and stick the hose in the end of the removed heater hose. Keep the water going until you get steady/clear discharge stream. You may have to drain/flush more than once.
As for the carb, the screws you are referring to are air mixture adjusting screws. Start the car, let it warm up, run at idle. One screw at a time, screw in until engine starts to slow. Then back out 1/2 turn.
Believe it or not, I actually lived in Middletown in the early '70's.
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SW Ohio? Did someone say SW Ohio? Where? I used to live in Cincy.
I have more questions than answers for you. Before I start asking, let me state that I do currently own a 1962 Oldsmobile, Dynamic 88.
What leads you to believe the engine is overheating; what signs/symptoms of such have you experienced?
Does the HOT light on the dash illuminate after the engine has been running?
What is the rating, in lbs., of the radiator cap?
What is the temp rating on the thermostat?
Does the heat riser counter weight move at all? I take it does not.
I will tell you that the 394 c.i. engine does generate a lot of heat; so much so that most folks would touch, or pop open, the hood and immediately think the car is overheating, when it is not.
The proper radiator cap is one with a 16 lb. rating.
The proper thermostat is one with a 160 degree temp rating
The heat riser valve is not of much use/value to you. It's function is to speed up warming the engine on a cold start in frigid temps. I assume you are not driving the car in the winter. If not, then your best bet is to force it open.
I must also assume the valve is open at present. Think about it, if the valve was stuck closed on a single exhaust system you would have little to nothing coming out the tail pipe at any rpm.
My advice is to change the thermostat, flush/drain the system (including use of the block drains as you indicated) and make sure you have a proper radiator cap. Then, let's see what happens?
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Also have a Wayne Dalton door. It is now 5 yrs. old or so. No probs whatsoever!
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Well, I have belts in my '55 CDV. I passed them between the bench portion and the folding backrest; typical/std. install. What I did do was move the attaching point forward as far as possible, so the belts did not protrude too much into the rear floor plan area. They look ok; not "like crap." To do this though, you do need the longest length belts you can buy.
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I would be leery of going with the heavier (std.) springs on the aluminum hood. Best to get the proper hinges/springs if you want to avoid bending the hood. It can/does happen. I folded the hood on a customer's VW once when working in a gas station!
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I have a wide range of NOS wiper motors mostly pre 1960... priced from $45.00 to 80.00 newer models tend to be cheaper. send note for year you are looking for and I let you know If I have what you need...
1955 Cadillac Series 62 Coupe de Ville.
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Well Doug, just to recap a little the four post gives you:
Can store another car underneath if you have the height
How is this an advantage over a 2-post? I ask as my lift stores one car up in the air, and another underneath it.
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Buy a Mohawk brand.
In my opinion, they are the best.
Made in USA.
Tom
I bought a used Mohawk A-7 and love it. Reason I went with Mohawk, they carry a 5 yr. warranty. That convinced me it might be safe to stand under it while working on my 2-ton + '55 Caddy!
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It sounds to me as though the top gets into a bind during operation, placing a strain on the motor, tripping a relay. After the motor cools town the relay resets and the top then is able to be lowered.
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What I can offer is that Terrill Machine in De Leon, TX is presently rebuilding my vacuum advance unit for my '55 CDV (a one year only part). The cost is $75 + $8 S&H = $83. They may be reached at 254-893-2610.
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See my reply to your "other" post on this.
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If you only use the car in warm weather, the valve (heat riser) is NOT essential, or even needed. You have 2 options: a) remove it or
simply keep it in the open position. Removal would require a spacer of some sort to fill the gap. The easiest route is to devise a method to keep it in the open position. This may be accomplished by either removing the butterfly mechanism inside the valve, or welding it tight in the open position.The real problem comes when the valve is stuck in the closed position, which happens quite often.
Does the valve move freely at present? If it does, it should work as intended. If it does not, in what position is valve; open or closed?
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I will join the chorus. Once you swap out the eng/tranny whatever you have left is not an Oldsmobile. Yes body and interior speak olds, but nothing talks Oldsmobile like the 303 engine coupled to the hydra-matic!
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Valve covers are a dark green. I believe Bill Hirsch or Fusick can provide the correct color engine paint for your car.
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The white porcelain portion of the plug, running from the metal tip on top to the black base below would be smooth, instead of having grooves/rings. The only difference, I believe, would be in the fit of the spark plug wire; none in performance.
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Ernie,
My question for you is, Is that lad of yours still involved in the project and, more importantly, is he still enthusiastic about it?
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It is a national day. Believe the car collecting legislator crowd and classic car insurance companies are behind the movement?
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The, as far as I know, ONLY company that made actual TEL which was sold in quarts ceased operations a few years ago. The product was called Octane Supreme. While there was an abortive restart, and talk of a 2nd restart of the company, nothing has come of it and TEL is not available for purchase to my knowledge.
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2 Cincy musts: Skyline chili and Greater's ice cream. If you can find it, try some goetta (a meat like sausage).
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The emblem in question is also used on the rear speaker grille of a non-Starfire convertible. Of course, it is also found on the dash panel insert above the glove box.
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I can not imagine STP working well as a steering gear lubricant in the winter? It can get more than very thick in cold weather.
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The rate/speed of travel varies throughout the route. It depends whether one is in the country or city. Speeds approaching 50 mph, at times, are not unusual.
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Last week I had the pleasure of participating, as an invitee, in the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Celebration of Cars - 2012 event. It was a "class act," I must admit. We were treated royally. There were lots of vintage, classic, and collector cars.
For any with an interest, the photos I took at the show may be found here -
Enjoy!
simply keep it in the open position. Removal would require a spacer of some sort to fill the gap. The easiest route is to devise a method to keep it in the open position. This may be accomplished by either removing the butterfly mechanism inside the valve, or welding it tight in the open position.
Help!!! 62 Olds Starfire overheating problem and brake problem!
in Oldsmobile - Technical
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I would be going with the factory spec on the timing, and go from there. Yes, the gas is crappy, but for reasons that have nothing to do with the timing setting.