Rusty_OToole

It might be possible. Have you looked at the mounts under the car? A luxury car may have had thick juicy donut mounts that were an inch thick or more when new.

You can get the vintage appearance with a much better transmission by using the modern T5 5 speed. It has the shifter on top and if you get the model used in the pickup and vans it has the shifter where you want it. The model used in cars has the shifter farther back, for today's low slung cars with reclined seats. The shifter part can be interchanged. The transmissions were used in many cars from Chevette to 5 liter Mustangs to 4.3 liter Astro vans and pickup trucks. Some mods to the bellhousing are necessary. A guy named Don Coatney has put an illustrated how to on the web if you want to search for it.

Tom McCahill tested a Chrysler station wagon in 1950 and made similar comments about the power. He also commented on the price, over $3500 a very expensive car at that time, he figured bookies and politicians were the only ones who could afford one LOL. He also described the hardware and fittings as resembling a yacht, with overtones of Crane plumbing LOL. I'm glad you got the old beauty working right. Luckily you did not have to tear down the transmission, this is typical. The transmission itself is very rugged. It's the control system that usually go wrong, but once you figure that out you are a winner. Drive the car for a while, tune up the motor and see if it improves. You could also try a compression test once you have some miles on it. A lot of those old cars start out cranky when they have been off the road for years. But once you put a few hundred miles on them they come back to life. The compression test is a good idea, those flatheads are so well mannered they can be in an advanced state of wear but make no odd noises or other signs. If compression is down a ring and valve job can bring them back to life at low cost. But put some miles on first, it may come around. A shot of Bardahl, Marvel Mystery Oil or Rislone may help free things up too. Sorry I don't know how to fix the mounts.

As long as 9 consumers out of 10 "comparison shop" by price alone jobs will keep going overseas and the stores will be filled with crap.

A pic of a Cimarron and why Time calls it one of the 50 worst cars of all time. 1982 Cadillac Cimarron - The 50 Worst Cars of All Time - TIME

My favorite Cimarron story. When the guy in charge of the project was pitching it to senior management a wiser more experienced executive took him aside and said "You better watch your step. You are doing awfully well in there and if you aren't careful you are going to get your wish. And I want you to know that you don't have enough talent, and GM doesn't have enough money to turn that sh*tbox into a Cadillac". Later he admitted "He was right". Sorry I don't remember the names of the executives involved.

I had a 220Se at that time. So far as I know it was the only one in Canada as they were never sold here. Mine was privately imported. The e stood for Einspritz or fuel injection. It had a mechanical injection system with a 2 piston pump. Yours must have been a 220S with carburetors. To get to the point, someone may be in dire need of that engine. It will fit a lot of Mercedes cars from the early 50s to the early 70s. They were a long lasting engine and not hard to repair. So you could try advertising it online or in Hemmings. Don't be impatient and it will likely sell within a few months probably sooner.

It sounds to me like you have a genuine low mileage vehicle. I never thought it wasn't to tell you the truth. Your shocks need "Knee Action Fluid". This was last available from parts stores during the Eisenhower administration. Hydraulic jack oil is a good substitute. I think motorcycle fork oil would work too, and comes in different weights for "tuning" your suspension but I don't know if anyone has tried it.

Maybe your bearings need to be tightened up.

NADA is crazy.

Old Cars Price Guide says $800 to $1710 depending on condition. If it's real sharp, show room condition $2650. So what? If you aren't going to sell it. If you really love the car and want to keep it for the rest of your life? If you aren't that committed junk it and use the $3500 to buy something you like better.

Looks like a Chev 6 from the thirties. The floor shift trans points to a date before 1939.Any serial number?

I have answered your question more directly in another thread. Now I would like to talk about how the tranny works a little bit. Once you understand how it works it becomes easier to figure out where the trouble is. The tranny is shifted by an internal hydraulic piston. It only has 2 position, high gear and low gear. It is pushed by pressure from a little gerotor pump. The pressure is controlled by a solenoid valve. That's it for the automatic shift. Then we get to the control system. It is wired to cut power to the coil, essentially cutting the engine for a second, when the shift occurs. There are 2 switches in the carb. One connects when the throttle is completely closed, the other when it is completely open. The first controls the normal shift, the second is the kickdown. It is supposed to drop the tranny into 3d when you floor the gas pedal, as long as you are going less than 50. On the air filter support is a little box containing a resistor and a circuit breaker. It must be wired in correctly. There are 2 connections on the coil, one on each side. One is to short out the coil the other is to supply power to the transmission solenoid. On the transmission are 2 devices, the solenoid valve that controls the shift and the governor that controls the solenoid valve. The governor over rides the signal from the engine system to make sure the shifts occur when they are supposed to, according to the speed of the car. That's about it for the control system. There is also a free wheel or over running clutch (think of a bicycle rear hub) in the transmission. It is there to allow the transmission to shift up, without using the regular clutch. Since you have the manual you can look up how all this works. It seems complicated but if you think about it, and go through in your mind how it works in all different circumstances it is a pretty simple and logical system. At that point it becomes a lot easier to pinpoint any defects.

If it was mine I would check over the wiring, connections etc first. Then put a test light on the shifter solenoid and go for a drive. If the light lights up at the correct time but the tranny doesn't shift, that points to low oil level or possibly more serious trouble in the transmission. If the light does not light up it points to a fault in the wiring, switches, or control system generally. It might be a governor problem. They have electrical contacts that sometimes get gummed up with oil and dirt. It pays to clean them every 50 years or so. Be careful of the contacts, they are made of silver and are rather soft. Spray with contact cleaner and drag a piece of paper between the contacts for gentle cleaning. Another thing that can prevent proper upshifts is a low oil level in the transmission. This can interfere with the pressure needed to shift the gears.

Nothing we enjoy more than giving free help to someone to make a fast buck.

You should find what you need here. Vintage Power Wagons is the leading supplier of parts for trucks like yours. Parts Catalog | Vintage Power Wagons

C38 = a 1946,47 or 48 Chrysler six cylinder. 70564429 is the first number issued for a 1947 C38W which I assume is the Windsor model. Your number 70590687 would be the 26,258th one of the series. Since the next year's starts with 70633017 that suggests a total of 42,330 produced putting your car a little past the middle of the year. By the way in those years the numbers starting 700 indicated a C38S which I guess would be the Royal. 705 (706 for 1948) is C38W or Windsor. 710 indicates a C38 Town and Country. In those years they did not issue different number series for different assembly plants, that started in 1949. Does your car have an ID plate indicating where it was built? They had plants in Detroit Michigan, Los Angeles California and Windsor Ontario. So, your numbers indicate a 1947 Windsor six built about 7 1/2 months into the year. Since the production year starts in September your car was probably built in April of 1947 or thereabouts.

Open the driver's door a few inches. Lift it up and down. How much slop is in the hinges? Now do the same to the left rear door. If they are nearly the same the car has 30,000 miles. If there is a lot more play in the driver's door it has 130,000 or was used for a pizza delivery wagon. Pedal pads or upholstery don't mean a lot because they can be replaced. Wear on the window surrounds is more significant if they have not been repainted. On a genuine 30,000 mile car there should be slight or no visible wear on the driver's door, none on the other doors. If there is much wear on the driver's door and some on the passenger side it's high miles. In this case by wear, I mean the paint is worn away or worn through. Don't forget the windshield. First is it original? Check for the trade mark in the corner. If it is original, at 30,000 it will have a few pinpricks from stones. At 130,000 it will have a frosted appearance. This will only be obvious when driving directly into the sun, with a clean windshield.

I like the one about the hillbilly whose wipers quit in his pickup truck. He looked in the glove box for a fuse but all he found was some .22 bullets so he put one in for a fuse. The wipers worked fine until the bullet got hot and shot him in the b*lls.

I wasn't aware they made a full flow, remote mounted filter. So that makes 5 possible types of filter, none, partial flow throw away, partial flow replaceable cartridge, full flow remote and full flow tower. The full flow remote could be replaced by a modern spin on filter. The partial flow throw away by a partial flow cartridge. The others are best left original.

If exposed to sunshine by being parked outdoors the cloth upholstery will fall apart after 20 years even if the car is never driven. Starting with the back of the rear seat. This goes for any car made before synthetic materials came in, about 1955. Leather upholstery, I'm not so sure. But if left outside, I think it would be done in after 20 years too.

If there is any doubt about the size of the engine you can measure the stroke with a ruler without taking the engine apart, no kidding. On top of the head, above cylinder #6 there is a pipe plug. If you take out this plug you can drop a wire or rod down on top of the piston. Turn the engine till it is at the bottom of its stroke, mark, turn the engine till it is at the top of its stroke, mark, measure your marks and there is the engine's stroke. All Dodges had 3 3/8 bore. 4 1/8 stroke = 218, 4 1/4 stroke = 228. As I said before your engine is a 228 according to the book. This feature was put on for finding top dead center and for setting the spark timing.

I'd buy it myself if it wasn't so far away.

If it was mine I would find a correct cartridge filter assembly and put it on. The cartridge is supposed to have a finer filter than the spin on type. The cartridge is not hard to change although a bit messy. I like to put my hand in a plastic bag, pull out the filter and wrap the bag around it for disposal. Then wipe out the canister with a rag and pop in the new filter. There is a ring on top of the filter cartridge to make lifting it out easier. There is also a plug at the bottom of the cannister to drain off the oil. This makes replacing the cartridge less messy. Replace the lid, using the new gasket that comes with the filter. Total time, 5 minutes or less. Practically the same as a spin on filter. This only needs to be done every 8000 miles or less. The factory recommends 8000 mile change intervals but they will go longer.

There were at least 3 different oil filters for that engine. 4 if you count none at all. The cheapest Plymouths and possibly Dodges could be had with no filter, it was an option. There was a sealed cannister filter that went on the side of the engine. It bolts onto the engine by a bracket and connects to the oil system by 2 small pipes. You were supposed to replace the whole cannister every 5000 miles. If you have one of these you can tell if it is working by feeling it after the engine is warmed up. If it is hot the oil is circulating. If it is cold or cool it is plugged full of dirt, time to replace it. These are no longer made but sometimes turn up at flea markets, old parts vendors etc. The second is the most common, a replacable cannister filter. It looks like the first type, held on by a bracket and connected by 2 pipes. The top is held by a bolt, you can take out the filter and replace just the inside part. These filters are used on tractors and other types of machinery and are still available from the local parts stores. The 3d type was used on 51-54 Chrysler Windsor andsome DeSoto. It has a full flow filter in a tower that bolts onto the side of the engine. No external pipes. It has the same replaceable cartridge. This type cannot be fitted onto the earlier engines, the engine block casting is different.