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Rusty_OToole

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Everything posted by Rusty_OToole

  1. Stick with upholstery work if you can. It pays well and does not destroy your body as badly as painting or mechanical work. You may not understand this now but you will in 30 years.
  2. Apparently not. Does it spin as fast as it used to? Any funny noises or smells? If there is no sign of distress it seems you got away with it this time. Whether the starter will fail sometime in the future, well its best before date expired before Doris Day met Rock Hudson so whatever time you get out of it is velvet.
  3. The Chrysler injection system was unique in that it counted every drop of fuel burned. Incoming gas went through a glass window with a plastic pinwheel inside. As the pinwheel turned an electric eye counted each blade. Other systems estimated gas flow from an oxygen sensor and went to default mode until it warmed up. I remember a contemporary road test in Car and Driver. On the next page was a test of a Volkswagen Rabbit. The 1600cc 4 cylinder Rabbit got exactly one MPG more than the 5200cc V8 Imperial, 26MPG vs 25, EPA official measurement. They made an electronic tester that made diagnosing problems simple but only Imperial dealers had it. The injection system was used by no other car besides Imperial. With all the electronics devices, and geniuses there are today I'm sure you could keep one running if you wanted to. But back in the day it was easier and cheaper to rip out the injection for the slightest problem.
  4. Basically Barracuda Valiant and Dart are all the same under the skin. A V8 rear axle and suitable front spindles will do the trick. The best spindles are 1973-76 Dart or Valiant . These will bolt onto your car and allow installing disc brakes. The same spindles were used on early 70s Ebody cars, Cuda and Challenger. Details of the conversion here: Disc Brake Conversion If you insist on the left hand threads you will have to buy new studs for the left side. Chrysler abandoned this feature around 1971.
  5. You can also use a portable 9V/110V set. Wire the battery connections to your 6V system and it will work fine.
  6. In the prohibition era a few big shot gangsters may have owned Lincolns and bulletproof Cadillacs but the working bootlegger preferred a less conspicuous car, but one that could carry a load and outrun anything the cops were likely to have. Favorites were the Hudson Super Six and Studebaker Whiskey Six cars, and REO Speedwagon trucks. A little later when Dillinger, Pretty Boy Floyd and Creepy Karpis were roaming the country, they usually drove low priced cars like Fords and Plymouths. Dillinger and Clyde Barrow were Ford fans while Karpis was arrested in a Plymouth with a concealed arsenal.
  7. I have changed a few cars and finally concluded, the improvement is not enough to justify the cost and trouble involved. It is much better to repair what is wrong with the 6 volt system rather than change to 12 volts. 6 volts work fine if everything is up to spec.
  8. Rusty_OToole

    1950 Packard

    I believe the Packard does ride and handle better especially if you fill the shock absorbers which have often run dry. Chrysler has the advantage here as they were an early adopter of tubular shocks. The lever action shocks usually work great as long as they are full of oil. But if replacements are necessary the tubular shocks are cheaper and easier to replace. Don't make any decisions about power mods until you drive the car for a while. They were one of the most powerful cars of their day and will keep up with modern traffic in stock form. Those old long stroke engines are foolers, they may be low on developed horsepower but have lots of punch at low speed. They do a lot better than you would think for "only" 135HP. You probably already know, that cars of that vintage need more upkeep than modern cars. Such cars need to be tuned up regularly and possibly a ring and valve job may be called for. Luckily these things are much easier and cheaper than comparable work on modern cars. A little work can completely transform a car and seemingly double the horsepower. The wheels are 5 bolt on a 5" center according to one reference. The Custom Eight was the top of the line, super deluxe job with the 356 cu in 160HP engine, tied with the OHV V8 Caddy for the most powerful car in the world. A Custom Eight Packard would have it over a New Yorker like a New Yorker would have it over a Dodge.
  9. To me this is the equivalent to junking the original engine in exchange for a Hyundai engine. They charge $600 to $800 to destroy your original radio and throw in a $29.95 Made in China set, that does not work as well as the original. Why not buy a $29.95 set at Walmart and save your money and your original radio.
  10. I doubt there is much sludge in there. How would it get there? It is at the end of a long oil line with no circulation. I would try it and see how it works. If it works OK leave well enough alone.
  11. Rusty_OToole

    1950 Packard

    If you like the Chrysler you will love the Packard. The cheaper Packards are very comparable to the New Yorker, the top models more like a prewar car with bigger engine, deluxe upholstery with down stuffing, cloisonne hubcaps etc. You do not state what model you are looking at but I assume it is an Eight or Super Eight (the 288 cu in and 327 cu in models respectively). Either should suit your purpose. Incidentally the 288 and 327 are the same engine except for the crankshaft stroke. It is easy to exchange these engines or rebuild a 288 into a 327. There are certain connections between Chrysler and Packard. Both had bodies made for them by Briggs. The bodies look similar under the skin because they were designed and built by the same factory. Both used Autolite electrics 6 volt positive ground. I'm sure there are other similarities and parts bought from the same supplier. For example both favored the flathead straight eight engine, both had open drivelines and leaf spring suspension From what I have read I believe the Packard would have the edge in ride and high speed road holding.
  12. If the film takes place in 1983 those cars are too old. A police car would most likely be 1 or 2 years old, they usually get rid of them after 3 or 4 years. Possibly a small town would keep a car longer but not over 5 years. It is also a question of what looks right. Anyone who was alive in the 70s or 80s, and sees a 1973 police car is automatically going to set the film in the mid 70s. If you deliberately point out the date of 1983 at some point a "cognitive reset" will have to take place that will destroy any effect of realism. I recommend a Dodge Diplomat sedan. They made millions of them and they are still around at cheap prices, also they were used as police cars in many many early 80s movies and TV shows so any viewer will instantly click to the correct time period. Alternative cars, Chev Caprice sedan, or Ford Crown Vic. These 3 were the leading police cars of the time especially on film. Any will work for you. The Caprice would be easiest to find if the dub wheel crowd hasn't bought them all up lol.
  13. I would expect the newer head to have higher compression as well as smaller plugs. You could check this by looking up the specs for the respective motors. Or if you take the head off you can see if the combustion chamber is smaller than the old model.
  14. Years ago I saw an ad for a bolt on power window conversion. It consisted of an armrest with a built in motor. The end of the motor slipped over the stock window crank shaft. The button was built into the armrest. It should be possible to make up something similar using a junkyard power window motor, and a 12 point socket to make the shaft connection. Make up a nice armrest of wood covered in padding and upholstery material.
  15. Rusty_OToole

    1950 Packard

    As far as parts availability goes they are well supported by Packard clubs and by a couple of well known specialists, Kanter and Max Merritt. Should be as good as for your Chrysler if not better. But not as easy and cheap as a 57 Chevy.
  16. Rusty_OToole

    1950 Packard

    I would say the New Yorker and Packard are very comparable, depending on exact model of Packard. They were selling to basically the same customers, in the same price range, at the same time. The big difference in specs would be the Ultramatic which was a more modern design than the Chrysler Fluid Drive. The Ultramatic was of the new generation of torque converter 2 speed transmissions like Chev's Powerglide, Buick's Dynaflow, and others that were made up into the mid 60s. Fluid Drive was an old school, prewar, early attempt at an automatic drive. The other difference would be horsepower depending on which model of Packard. They ranged from a 288 cu in 135HP to 327 cu in 150HP to 356 cu in 160HP while Chrysler had a 323cu in 135HP engine. So any Packard would be equal in power to the Chrysler or better. They would be about as similar as two cars from different makers could be. Each with its own strengths and weaknesses. I can easily imagine someone trading in his 1948 Chrysler on a 1950 Packard. If you are happy with the Chrysler's performance the Packard should suit you. Either will keep up with modern traffic and cruise all day at up to 60 or 70 MPH provided it is in top shape, engine cooling system etc. Both are rather sluggish off the line but gather speed nicely if you give them a chance. I would like to see your impressions as a Chrysler owner. Can you imagine, if you had bought your Chrysler in 1948, eyeing the new Packards in 1950 with the idea of trading in? How would the Packard appeal to you? How would it compare to your Chrysler? Can you see someone making the trade or would you more likely buy another Chrysler or possibly a Buick, Futuramic Olds 98 or Lincoln?
  17. My guess is that the fenders will interchange. The 1937 and 38 models used the same body, updated slightly for 1938. Plymouth and Dodge shared many parts in common. I would expect the fender to bolt on but the holes for tail light mounting to be in the wrong place. You might have to weld up the holes and drill new ones. Can you get pictures and measurements before you buy?
  18. Springs hold up the weight of the car. Shock absorbers absorb shocks. Your car most likely has a weak spring. The shock absorbers have nothing to do with it. The lever action shocks used on your Buick never wear out. Fill them with oil and they are good as new. About the only thing to wear out is the seals. If they are shot you will find out when you put in the oil, it will leak out. If you can't get knee action fluid or shock oil, use hydraulic jack oil or motorcycle fork oil. Replace the springs in pairs or all 4 at a time. A new spring will lift up your car and throw it off the other way. For a temporary repair there are rubber blocks that can be inserted in the coils to lift up the low corner.
  19. The tip of the spark plug has to stay hot enough to burn off the carbon but not so hot as to burn up the spark plug itself. Too far one way and the plug will foul with deposits and stop working. Too far the other way it will burn out and stop working. Or, if the tip of the plug gets red hot it can cause damaging spark knock. This is not such an issue today. In the early days it was more critical to have just the right plugs. Hard working full throttle engines, as in trucks and race cars needed cooler plugs. Cars that putt putt around on short errands need hotter plugs. If they fit your engine give them a try. Worst that can happen is they will foul up with carbon in a few months and start to misfire. But they will probably be fine.
  20. Could be a burned intake valve, stuck intake valve, or carb too lean. A vacuum leak will cause backfiring. Check the carb bolts are tight likewise the intake manifold. Do not overtighten. Spray WD40 around the carb base and manifold joints, if it is sucking in air it will speed up when it sucks in the WD40. To find burnt or stuck valves do a compression test. If you find a low cylinder squirt some oil in and test again, if compression comes up you have weak piston rings, if it stays the same its a bad valve.
  21. Who else remembers the one on the Bob Cummings TV show in the early 60s?
  22. Some cars had dampers to eliiminate shimmy. Later Dodges had a "kick shackle" on the left spring. 30s Packards had dampers built into the ends of the bumpers, other cars had the bumper mounted on rubber. Westinghouse made dampers for luxury cars starting in the teens, that went on the bumpers. I don't know what your car had, if anything. But if there is a spring loaded kick shackle you should check it is working. Or, if the bumper was originally rubber mounted, if someone bolted it solid that would cause a shimmy. As others have said, caster, alignment, good springs, good shock absorbers, wheel balance, tight king pins and steering joints all help. If all else fails you could add a steering damper. They make them for light 4 wheel drive trucks and SUVs. Like a shock absorber that bolts onto the tie rod and front axle. It does not interfere with steering but damps out rapid movement and vibration.
  23. With scrap the way it is you would be lucky to get $50 bucks. The Plymouth drive train was in a car, in a junkyard. The junkyard owner was willing to cut all the parts out and load them on my truck for $225. The guy he bought it from, drove it into the yard a few days before.
  24. I brought home a Chrysler flathead industrial engine last week. It cost me a non running VW engine and came with its own trailer and test stand. Hope to put it in my DeSoto this summer. They aren't that hard to find. I turned down a 1951 Plymouth engine, trans, and rear axle for $225 a month ago. Out of a running car.
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