Steve Braverman

I believe these are for 1914 through 1916 series 8. The 1913 hood has a large screened opening in front, and half way through 1916 the series 9 came out which used a different hood.

Does anyone know of a device to power 12V things like a GPS or DVD player in an antique car? I'd rather not tap into the car's electrical system, I'd rather find a stand-alone power supply. Any ideas?

This is me in my dad's 1910 Sears. I'm bigger now.

My daughter Julia at about 10 months in the Franklin. These were taken last summer.

1931-32 PA.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TG57Roadmaster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Everyone's on their way to Jones Beach or the Hamptons! BTW, what became of the Inn at Shelter Island? I think I read somewhere that the family was packing it in... TG </div></div> Jones Beach is 60 miles west of here, and the Hamptons are on the other fork. Shelter Island is still the great un-touched. The Inn is probably under a different name. Not much has changed there.

I'm 85 miles east of New York City, and today the traffic was worse than I've ever seen it.

Plymouth? Possibly 1928-29

I began the task of mounting new tires on my Franklin yesterday. I've mounted many tires on split rims and drop center rims, but I've never dealt with lock rings before. I got to brush up on my profanity at least. My question is regarding the tubes, or the valve stems to be specific. I bought the tubes with rubber stems that are supposed to be "hand bendable." Now I don't consider myself to be a complete weakling, but I can't seem to bend these things to save my life. Any thoughts? Did Universal send me the wrong tubes? If I leave the stem straight, it get stuck in the spokes.

Coming soon

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Steve_Mack_CT</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I know from his prior posts what Steve B. stole, er bought his Franklin sedan for - a great example.</div></div> I resemble that remark! Actually, my car was for sale for quite some time before I bought it for the full advertised price.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1937hd45</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Most of the parts are in the garages & barns of hobby members. When they move or pass on they are sold to others, the good stuff goes on eBay, iron gets scraped, and the eBay non sellers go to Hershey. I personally don't know anyone doing a Pre War restoration at this time, but they are out there. </div></div> Bob, I'm across the road from you at Hershey, and I'm doing a Pre-War restoration. So you know me, sort of. I'm also under the age of 35 (barely). Friends of mine that are my age and are car guys are starting to get interested in early cars due to my influence and hounding. The market is making cars of the 20s and 30s easier to afford than stuff from the 50s and 60s.

You might want to start with something mild so as not to attack the rubber. I've had very nice results with Pledge, the furniture polish. Some tire dressings leave nasty residues, not to mention making the surface very slick. Not a good thing on a running board.

Egge?

Here's my not-so-classy mounting system for my Optima battery. One piece of 2x6 and two pieces of 4x6 screwed together make up the difference between the 2E and the Optima. It's very secure if not pretty. I wonder how many points I'll lose at Pebble Beach?

As far as I know, there are no "maintenance-free" 6V batteries out there. In any event, the long group 2E that my car takes is limited in availability anyway. I got my Optima battery the other day via Amazon.com. They were $75 less than the local Optima distributor. I've never heard my car crank as fast. 800 cca is a nice shot. Now I'm fabricating some blocks to take up the slack in the battery box. I'll post some photos when I'm done. So far I'm happy.

Four cylinder Plymouths are a special breed and a great car. I love taking mine to local shows and showing the features that make it so superior to its Ford and Chevy contemporaries. AACA is a definite must, but I am not a Plymouth Club member. My father used to belong when it was still called the "Four Cylinder Plymouth Owners Club." Then it became the 4&6 Cylinders owners club, then the 4,6 & V8 Owners club. Now the four cylinder owners are quite the minority. I've owned my PA for 18 years, and my father owned it for 30 before that, so if I can help you with advice, send me an e-mail. The PA is a bit different than the 30U, but not by much. It is a great car that you will not soon tire of.

I miss my Corvair

Chryslers are just big Plymouths

The '58 Buick is my favorite 50s car.

Has anyone had experience with these? The cost is only about $10 more than a standard lead-acid, and the claims of longer life and no leakage are tempting.

What's the life expectancy for a 6V battery? I have a battery in my Franklin that a friend gave me. He had it in storage for many years dry and never wet. I've been running it for six years. Is that it? It's a long and skinny thing, 19"x4". My local NAPA has it in stock for $115.

The BF Goodrich Traction T/A is the replacement for the old Comp T/A. They last forever, grip like glue and ride nice and quiet. Oh, and they are priced well too.

The only time I used a tow dolly was to move an Alfa Romeo Spyder. I made the fatal error of trying to back up, which is a no no, and the car rolled off the front of the dolly. Fortunately, I had a few strong guys with me and we were able to pick the car up and roll it back onto the dolly. I saw some guy trying to the same thing this year at Rhinebeck with a mid-seventies Chrysler New Yorker. They were not as successful as I was. I'll never use a tow dolly again. You really don't want to drag a 20s car down the highway.

This will be my 34th Hershey this year. I'm 34 years old. I can't ruin my record just because of fuel prices.