Steve Braverman

Ok, here are some pictures. McMaster-Carr has tapered stoppers, which I guess I can cut to shape. This float is 1.5" in diameter and 1" tall.

You can, and probably should, paint the inside with red Glyptal. I believe Franklin did that with their later engines. It seals the pores of the aluminum and improves oil flow. Glyptal is available from Eastwood. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=2298&itemType=PRODUCT

I'll post some photos later, but the float slides up and down on a sort of a track, so the shape is important. There is a brass do-hickey wrapped around the float. It's too hard to describe without a photo. Wine corks are very easy to find, I have an actual winery as my next-door neighbor

Leave it naked. That's most likely what was done originally.

When we used to launch large wood boats, they would always leak like crazy for a day or so. I remember working on the bilge of a 40' Cris Craft Constellation, and seeing daylight through the bottom like I was looking through a venetian blind. We would leave it in the belts of the travel-lift over the weekend with large sump pumps running. By Monday she would be tight again and ready to go. Wood is amazing stuff. IMHO, I would re-install the crusader V6. Great engine with a nice exhaust note.

I need to make a new float for the gas tank sender on my dad's 1923 Franklin. Any ideas for local sources of cork? How about a synthetic replacement?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: andreson2304</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi, This is andreson.I had Toyota corolla car I can give you the car but you should return my car with in one day.As i am a business man I use to travel to various places every day.So i can give you car for one day.And i will send my driver too.</div></div> That's hilarious!

While on my way to the Franklin Trek last month in my 1932 Franklin, I got a flat tire. The cheapo scissor jack that I bought at the auto parts store could not lift the car. It actually started to bend. I sat on the side of the road with a sheriff waiting for my auto club to figure out where I was when a local stopped by and offered a hand. He went home and returned in a few minutes with a floor jack. Two weeks ago, I noticed a pickup out in front of my house with a flat. I walked out front, and lo and behold, no jack or lug wrench. I changed his tire and he thanked me. I thought I was even. Today, I'm going to get my mail and in front of my house is a stretch limo with a bunch of women standing around a shredded front tire. They had a jack, but no handle or lug wrench. Turns out that they were out for a bachelorette party (I live in Long Island's wine-producing region, tourists get a kick out of wineries). So, I dragged out the jack and lug wrench and changed their tire as well. Am I even yet?

It also has a Model T steering wheel and column.

All you need to do is perfect the flex capacitor, and you're all set.

That battery is available from NAPA also. My Franklin uses the same one. I recently priced it at $115. For $125 I bought an Optima. It's much smaller, but fits in the tray.

I was told not to worry about it. It is not a horrible noise, but I hear it.

This is not antique car related, but I thought I'd ask anyway. I recently bought a Dodge Dakota with the 4.7 V8 and 2WD, and it makes strange clicking or snapping noises when going from reverse to forward. The dealer tech tells me it's the aluminum drive shaft, and that they all do that. I thought it was neat when I looked under the truck and saw the big shiny drive shaft, and I wondered why they would use such a thing on a truck. I've seen them on Corvettes and other high performance vehicles, but never on a truck. So my question is: Why use an aluminum drive shaft, and why do they make noises?

Barry, are you sure the exhausts exit below the waterline? That is not normal, and if the copper springs a leak, is a good way to sink the boat. If you look at the photo of <span style="font-style: italic">Deja Vu</span> you can clearly see the exhaust is above the waterline. Rubber hose is the norm today for inboard exhaust systems. The cooling water is mixed with the exhaust at the manifolds and keeps the hoses cool. Older boats did indeed have copper exhausts, but most rotted away (especially in salt water where I live) and have been replaced with rubber hose and fiberglass joints. Mufflers are also made of fiberglass. I had a 1968 Chris Craft Sea Skiff that had the original Cris Craft engine. It was a Chevy 283. When I was a marine mechanic, I had an exhaust riser clog, causing no water to flow though the exhaust, the hose then did melt and blow apart. It happened quite quickly and probably prevented the engine from overheating. Luckily, it was a twin-screw boat, and I was able to get back on the remaining engine.

I just took apart the sending unit from my father's 1923 Franklin. The float is cork and it's kinda ratty looking. Do I need to coat it, or should I just leave it alone? I assume it will still float.

Are you thinking of buying one of these cars?

Franklins had electric start after 1913.

The Stromberg will fit Franklin series 10C though 11A. The Schebler was used on many applications. Are they for sale?

Looks like a marine heat exchanger.

You could also sell a kidney. You have two of those too, and unlike the Franklins, you'll never miss the kidney.

Out of curiosity, what is the difference between the OE-1 and OE-2?

1924 Series 10C was the first. Not sure when the OE-1 was replaced by the cast-iron Stromberg, but I'll guess that the Series 11 of 1927 was the last. The Series 12 of 1928 may also have used it.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mika Jaakkola</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What kind of engines/trannys Franklins used? Continentals maybe, what about chassis? suspension? Can you guys tell us who don't know. Thanks!! </div></div> Continentals!!!!??? Mika, those are fighting words!! Franklins were known for having air-cooled engines. The engine was entirely of Franklin's own design and manufacture. These are the best photos I have of the Olympic's engine, showing it with and without the cooling shrouds. The suspensions on all but the Olympics and V-12 cars used full elliptic springs with tubular front axles. Franklins were NOT assembled cars like may others of the era. The Olympic is kind of the exception. Franklin needed a less expensive car to sell, so the Olympic is essentially a REO Flying Cloud with a Franklin engine and trim. Franklins are so different from any other car, that I can't even begin to explain it here. Go to the Franklin Club's web site at www.franklincar.org for more info. The price guide numbers that have been posted here are fairly useless.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HarryJ</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I thought '32's were "PB"s. I have a 31 "PA" ; although registered as a '32.. Steve , you ought to get the Plymouth out , no matter the series. </div></div> It was a mid-year model change. Some PAs are titled as 1932s. I'm going to try to get the Plymouth on the road for next summer.

Here it is folks. http://www.cheapwaterfuel.com/