RocketDude

There are companies that make 6V alternators that solve all of the problems without the down side. The put out a constant 7.5 volts. There is even one company that makes a 6V alternator that fits into your generatorcase, so it looks original. It's not cheap, but what have you found in this hobby that is?

As far as how it should operate... In most American cars, the clutch is RPM sensitive. It's locked up at low RPM so air will flow through the radiator at stop and low speed operation. When you reach road speeds, it should unlock, as the movement of the vehicle provides enough air flow for cooling purposes. By free wheeling at road speed, it reduces the load on the engine, promoting better economy, and also, most importantly, eliminates the roar. A lot of foreign car clutches have a heat sensitive silicone grease in the center, and it will disengage at a certain temperture.

Constsant roar sounds like the fan clutch is locked up. Try spinning the fan with your fingers, with the engine off, of course. It should spin a little. It won't free wheel, but should spin a half a turn or so. You don't want it to spin too much, or too little. If it doesn't spin at all, it is locked up, if it free wheels, that is not good either. Free wheeling, or close, means it won't lock up and move air when the RPM's are low, so no low speed cooling. Completely locked up makes the roar, hurts MPG, and either can cause the W/P to fail. How much it should spin is hard to explain, it's something that comes with experience. You can go to a little more trouble and remove the clutch, put the nuts back on and test drive it. If the roar is gone, you have your answer, but it sounds like it's a goner.

Just for grins, I googled "Soda Blasting" and got a page full of information. Here is one page out of many that gives some information on the subject.... http://sodaworks.com/

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Scott S</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I guess you get what you pay for. I have several coats of old stuff to remove. Should I be afraid to have it sandblasted? </div></div> Sandblasting is a relative term. Most shops don't use sand to blast a car. You can get it blasted with crushed walnut shells, or other less damaging media. The latest thing in this area, probably everywhere, is soda blasting. Using soda will remove everything, and it is so friendly you can blast it with all chrome and glass in place, if you chose to do so. It will remove the paint without damage to chrome or glass, and it is cool, so it won't warp the metal. Talk to your friend and see if he is familiar with that media, or hop into your yellow pages.

Beautiful..! My folks had a black and white '55 S88 during my hi school years, and when I could talk them out of it for a date, I was definately "The Man..!" One of my favorite ever cars.....

It cost about a thousand dollars to ship it to California. Depending on your situation, it might be something to consider.....

I have experimented with different cleaners, and you're correct, some get rancid and smell terrible. I cured that problem by adding a little bleach. As far as not cleaning well, if your tank is not heated, is will not clean well. Safety Kleen tanks, and some others, are heated. It not only cleans much better, but it feels a lot better in the winter. Cold cleaning solution will get you nowhere

http://collectibles.search.ebay.com/olds...fsopZ1QQsacatZ1 Here is an ebay site with Olds collectibles. I have spent my share of money in here. give it a look....

The first small block OHV Chevy V-8 was a 288 CI. Built from '17 'til '19.... Did the 1/4 mile in 14 sec et, at 150 MPH. (I made that part up..!) http://www.gmphotostore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=53216861

I agree, it looks like a spanner wrench. The tool is cut to go around the shaft, with "dogs", or round dowels protruding from each tang, which goes into a matching hole in the nut. The dowel fitting into the nut hole, give you the gripping power to turn the nut. Would be simple to reproduce.

I have spent a lot more money than I planned It should be required that this sentence be tattooed across the forehead of ever person who has ever started a restoration project on an old car..!

I had an old Allen scope and other old pieces of tools and equipment, that had been following me around for way too many years. I didn't want them, but I didn't want to dump them, either. When I retired and relocated a couple of years ago, I found a Route 66 museum just a few miles from my home. They gladly accepted the donation, and I still get to see my old stuff any time I drop by, which is several times a year. I can appreciate them without them cluttering up my garage.

http://www.calyxmanifold.com/ Nothing else like it. I think Eastwood sells it, but this is mfg direct. Try it, you'll like it..! Cheap, and great..!

Now we're getting somewhere..! Some information to go on. You did mention the parts you replaced, but not that the gauge reads hot ant it was boiling over. Was all of the mentioned work done to resolve said heating problem, and it existed before the new parts parade? Does the overheating occur both when driving and standing still? Have you had a radiator shop, or mechanic do a block test on it? You put a chemical into the cooling system and warm it up, then put a tool in the radiator and with draw some radiator fluid. If you have a cracked block or blown head gasket, the exhaust will turn the fluid blue, and you know if your have a problem in that area. Always start with the basics. Too many novices tend to throw money at a problem, and end up buying many unnecessary parts. Don't worry about the heater core until you fix the problem. Bypass it and forget it until later. If finding one is impossible, take the core to a shop and see about getting it repaired. That is not the best way, but it may be the only way, while you continue to shop for a new one. I have some more ideas, but first I must quell the screaming coming from the next room. It seems I'm taking the wife shopping. Go get busy and feed us more info...!

Why are you saying your leaking core is causing overheating? From your other posts, I assume you say it's overheating because you have steam from your defroster vents. Steam coming from your vents means the heater core is leaking. That has nothing to do with overheating. Unless you can provide other reasons. What else makes you believe you're overheating?

It looks like a lesson in frustration. I ran out of patience just watcching..!

Master cylinder is bypassing. Take it out, call the police and report it as a scofflaw, and replace with a new one..! As far as it not wanting to stop running, it is common with GM cars. You have to chain em up in the garage at night to keep em from running away. They were born to run..!!

There was a story in the news not too long ago. Two guys were going down the road and witnessed a car go out of control and roll into the ditch. The stopped and ran over to help. Two of the guys in the wreaked car were out and ok, the third guy was still in the car, and in bad shape. While the two good Samaritans were trying to help guy number three, guys one and two stole their car and took off. Wasn't long before they wreaked that one too. They were all drunk and had stolen the first car, also. Life is full of surprises..!

You only had to deal with the guy for a few minutes, the poor lady has to live with him every day...!

The short is a bad thing, driving you to drink is a good thing..! Disconnect the battery cable and rig up a bulb between post and cable. If there is a draw, the bulb will light. Then start disconnecting things until the bulb goes out. You can pull fuses one at a time, or just disconnect anything you can find, one at a time. After you find the culprit, THEN you get to have that drink..!

If you have steam coming from your defroster vents, you definately have a bad heater core..!

It depends on where you live. If you live in cold country, it will present a big problem in January..! It's not a problem at all, it's done all of the time. Most vehicles use two different size hoses, 5/8 and 3/4, so go to the nearest auto parts store and buy an adaptor designed for just this situation, or make one yourself. Then you have six months to change the core before it snows again..!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Gary_N</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> RocketDude: $250 to blast and powder coat all those parts? Where do you live anyway, Tijuana? I paid that much to get 5 wheels done!Gary </div></div> Actually, I got more stuff done for that cost than I listed. I also had the battery box, the battery cover, the big panel in front of the radiator, I did lots and lots..! I spent several hours sandblasting just a few of the items, and not very well, I might add. I got discouraged and decided to take it to the sandblaster. I had no intention on having it powder coated, for what I expected to be a very high cost. I told the guy how long I spend on the few parts I attempted to sand blast, and he laughed at me. He said he could blast the whole load in less than an hour. Minimum charge for an hour, $75.00..! So I asked how much to blast and powder coat, and he said the would do it all for $250.00. I went to another place closer to my home, and it was cheaper, BUT..! I had a lot of road tar on the fender panels, which they told me I would have to remove, a project that didn't thrill me, so I went back to the first place, and he said they would remove the tar for no extra charge. That sealed the deal. They take a huge torch and remove the tar in minutes, like it was nothing. When you have the proper equipment, life is a breeze. I will soon take my wheels to him, so we'll see how much that costs, but I'm sure the blasting won't take long, so it shouldn't be too expensive. I'll let you know, maybe wheels cost more..? It was done by Vinman performance coating and fabrication in Hesperia California. He has several booths of difference sizes, the largest being big enough to do a truck frame. It sold me, any time I have enough to make up the minimum, it will go to Vinman. I will gladly trade a few bucks for many, many hours of saved labor..! Gary, also...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Gary_N</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> questions #1: What is a good product to use to paint the inner fenders? My inner fenders are in great shape and I want to get them blasted, primed, painted and stored away. Is this a paint thing or a POR type thing? </div></div> I took my inner fender panels, along with a whole pick-up load of parts, to the local powder coater, and had everything sandblasted and powder coated semi-gloss black. It's beautiful and inexpensive. The truck load cost me $250.00, that includes all of the panels surrounding the radiator, the radiator saddle,and all related parts, the fresh air ducting, everything under the hood area that I wanted in black, and all of the front suspension parts, coil springs, sway bar, you name it, if it was black, it was in that load of goodies.. All of those parts were done on both sides for that cost. probably as cheap, or less, than you could paint them for, and they are bullet proof..!