RocketDude

I'm always willing to help out a pal.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1962-63-6...1QQcmdZViewItem

I'm always willing to help out a pal.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1962-63-6...1QQcmdZViewItem

Red Ryder's side kick wa Little Beaver.......

Red Ryder's side kick wa Little Beaver.......

Changing just the lower half is certainly something to consider, if you don't mind the extra labor if that idea fails. Once you get the cap off, it should be obvious if that is where the leak is. The biggest percentaqge of the time, it will be the lower half that leaks, so your chances of success are good. If that isn't the whole problem, it has to be at least 50% better, so the catch can size can be reduced....!

I have no experience with that engine, however, I see no reason why the seal can't be changed in the car. I'm sure you won't find a modern seal to fit your engine. It isn't popular enough for a company to make a neoprene seal for it. It's all based on supply and demand, and there is no demand for your engine. Back in the day, most engines had the rope seal. There is an inexpensive tool called a "Sneaky Pete", that you should be able to obtain from any auto parts store. it is designed for replacing the rope rear main seal in the vehicle. I described this tool in an earlier post, but I'll give it a go again. It consists of a small diameter rod, with course threads on one end, and a quarter sized loop on the other end. It maybe eight inches long. The threads are course, like a drywall screw. You drop the main cap, and screw the threaded end into the rope seal, between the crank and the block. Screw it in as far as you can. Then, as you slowly turn the crankshaft, you pull the rod in the same direction, and the seal should come out. Stick a screwdriver or something through the loop on the end as you pull and turn the crankshaft, preferably with a flywheel turner. Pull and turn slowly, and the seal should come right out. The other part of the tool is basically "Chinese Fingers". You stick the end of the new seal in the metal mesh "Fingers", and as you pull on the fingers, it grabs the end of the seal. Grease the heck out of the seal, and push the other end of the fingers up and around the crankshaft, then slowly turn the crank and pull the tool, which is attached to the seal, at the same time. If you don't understand what I mean, go buy the tool and look at it, you will understand what I'm saying. Go slowly and keep the seal lined up and it should pull into place. The seal will be a little long, and need to be cut off flush after you get it into place.. I cut them a tiny bit more than flush, so when you put the two ends together, you have a slight crush on the seals. I also put a dab of silicone sealer at the seal joint. The top half of the seal in the cap half is easy. Put the seal in place, crush it down by rolling it with a large diameter socket, or similar item, then cut it off a hair over flush. It takes some time and care, but you can do a good job and it shouldn't leak. The rope will never be as good as a neoprene one piece seal, but life aint' always fair...! Here ya go, a Sneaky Pte for $8 bucks.! you'll be sailing aloong in no time.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LISLE-Sne...ZWDVWQQtcZphoto

Nooooooooo.... Do not cut the rubber seal..! How much longer are you taslking about? Is the motor in the car, or on the stand..? It should be perfectly flush is you have it installed correctly. I would double check the part number, and how you have it installed. Did you put in the little shims that go above the seal? Do some more checking, and we'll talk about it...!

Here's something to keep you busy when you finish the Limo. http://www.oldride.com/classic_cars/440319.html

Damn..! All that hard work, and now I find the story..! Read it yourself..! http://www.latimes.com/news/local/la-me-mustang21mar21,1,7073348.story?track=rss

According to the story in the LA times, the guy was "a young, single guy" who drove the car to work and parked it in the lot at the Lockheed plant in Burbank, Calif, in May, 1970. When he got off work, the car was gone. A man bought the car from a used car lot one week later, and gave it to his now 55 year old daughter for a High School graduation present. He paid $1,114.00 from a lot in Bellflower. She has owned it since. it has been painted twice over the years, and just had the engine rebuild for the second time. A neighbor was looking at the car with the intent of purchasing it. He discovered the VIN tag on the door didn't match the one in the engine compartment. The lady notified the San Diego PD, and they gave the car a clean bill of health. The two tags still bothered her, so she contacted the DMV. One tag identified the car as having been built in San Jose, the other said it was built in Dearborn. After contacting the DMV, she was contacted by detectives who informed her the car was stolen and they had identified the rightful owner. The real owner purchased it painted "Honey Gold. He stated if he decides to keep it, he will have it repainted back to original. The lady is sad, since she has owned it since she was 18, and recently spent over $4000. in restoration. It looks very nice, as far as you can tell on TV. I'm sure it will have a happy ending. I'm predicting the ol' guy will do the right thing. Maybe he will will it to her in 20 years when he passes on..!

The original owner is now 80 years old, and isn't too sure he wants it, now that he found out it is no longer the original color. It should be interesting to see how the whole thing plays out. He was going to drive from Costa Mesa to San Diego today to see the car, but the Friday traffic scared him off, so he will go tomorrow. It's about an hour, hour and a half drive. Watch the news tomorrow....

Just for grins, and because I have no life, I googled "Delaney Power Extractor". The exact same post is posted on every blog site in existence. The claims are made that it has been tested, patent pending, and available. It's amazing how this miracle engine could get so far into research and development, and no one ever finding out about it. It would appear someone has even more time on their hands than I do, to be promoting this fairy tale. It gives an address to write for more information, so I'm going to order one for each of us. Should be fun.... Get your checkbooks ready, I'm going to set up a sales booth at the end of my driveway..!

That is precisely what increases the value of an old car, some idiot getting a nice one and destroying it. Now there is one less nice one, so the rest are more valuable. I love building hot rods, it's where I started, but you start with a junker, not a cherry. It takes all kinds...! I hate to see a nice car bastardized.....

I don't think you will ever find a spec for allowable slop in a timing chain. When new, the chain is tight, with no slop. You have steel gears and chain, which normally will go 50-100 K miles without problems. The chain will get sloppy, but it will still run just fine. A sloppy chain can effect the timing, but minimally. Not something to be to concerned with on that straight 8. In 1952, most engines were worn out at 50k. If you are rebuilding the engine, replace the set, don't even think about it. It would be extremely rare for an engine with steel gears to ever get sloppy enough to jump time, like plastic gears do commonly. On later model cars with the plastic timing gear, it isn't unusual to spit the teeth at 50 or 60 K, and jump time. The plastic gets brittle with heat and age, and can cause a disaster when the teeth break. Any engine I have apart with plastic, and 40 k miles or more, would get new timing gears and chain. You don't have a plastic gear, so not a problem The rule of thumb myself and most mechanics would go by is, if you have the engine far enough apart to see if there is any slop, change the gears and chain..! You can always just change the chain, but that is not a recommended practice, since the gears are also worn, and best practice is to have the three components wear in together. Inspect the gear teeth and see how much wear on them. Another factor is the miles you plan to put on the vehicle. If it's a Sunday driver that may get a maximum of 10 or 15 K more miles in it's lifetime, I would consider just replacing the chain. It would depend on finances, condition of existing gears and chain, and availability of the timing gear set. Bottom line, restoring old cars is expensive. Don't try to cut corners, if in doubt, replace it/them..!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Twitch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I still applaud the times when they took rusting body parts from a junkyard and got them on the street again even in a rod. Better than waiting for the apocolypse or if someone "might" build a 100% stocker someday. </div></div> I loved the cars Boyd rescued from the wreaking yard and made into beautiful Hot Rods, it was the pristine cars he tore apart to build into his form of "Art" that I and other people object to..! As far as Boyd being rich, he was as well know for his filing BK on every business he touched, as he was for building cars. Boyd Wheels is an example. It was an fantastic product. but his inability to manage a business cost him the company. He didn't sell it for a million, he lost it in bankruptcy. He would have been rich, had he hired a business manager and stuck to designing. That wasn't his nature. Just to show there are two sides to every story, go to the Rod sites and he is being remembered as a God. I still say, whether you liked his work or not, it's sad to see someone die so young.

I wasn't a fan, but sad to see anyone go too early..! Boyd Coddington, shown signing an autograph during the SEMA show last October. Hot-rod builder Boyd Coddington dies By Mark Vaughn | 02/27/08, 12:49 pm et Boyd Coddington, the hot-rod innovator whose creations won the coveted Grand National Roadster Show's America's Most Beautiful Roadster (AMBR) trophy a record six times, died Wednesday morning of undisclosed causes. He was 63. Coddington was raised in rural Idaho but moved to Southern California as soon as he could to pursue his dream of building hot rods. He quickly earned a reputation for subtle, stylistic innovations on what had been an almost overdone theme--the '32 Ford roadster. That branched out to '33s, '34s and then all manner of surprising twists on iconic themes. Names such as Boydster, Smoothster, Alumacoupe and Chezoom redefined what a rod could be. His wheels were equally well known, particularly those shaved from billet aluminum. He soon earned the nickname "Billet...

I have used Dependable Auto Shippers (DAS) http://www.dasautoshippers.com/?EADID=wd:phone:das:das_keywords:das+auto+shipping-ex on two occasions recently. I purchased a vehicle in souther Florida in November, 2007, through ebay. DAS was their recommended shipper. They picked it up at the sellers residence, and delivered it to my door step in Souther California, for $1200.00. It was in running condition, which makes a difference in cost. I could have saved a couple of hundred had I made the 80 mile trip to their terminal in Gardena, Calif. It went through storms all the way here, and arrived here right in the mist of the big fires that took place in So Calif during that time period, so it was a total mess..! When the vehicle arrived at their terminal, they washed it before making the final delivery. It sat in their lot in Florida for a week before they got a load coming this way. Once on the road, they went non stop and it arrived in three days, one week ahead of the estimated time of arrival. I was very happy with their service. In January, I purchased a vehicle in New Jersey. The seller delivered it to their terminal in NJ, and I drove to Gardena to take delivery. By them shipping terminal to terminal, rather than door step to doorstep, it cost me $800.00. There was a very small dent below the tail light on the right rear quarter panel. As anyone knows, a small dent repaired properly was $700.00..! I failed to purchase the extra insurance, I assumed I would only get the standard pay off of $150.00. Was I ever surprised.! They gave me $400.00 towards the repair. I don't know why, and I wasn't going to argue, so I am more than pleased with my two experiences with DAS. I would buy the insurance upgrade if I do any more shipping. Because it's necessary to repaint the entire fender to do the job correctly, the price was high to make the repair. I found a small shop without the big overhead, and they did the job to perfection for $400.00, so I broke even. I am now having that shop come to my house Wednesday to give me an estimate on my '51 Olds. Bottom line, I wouldn't hesitate to use DAS again.

Do you have the part numbers from the box..? or the numbers stamped on bearing and race..? I have tried to find roller replacements and never have had any success.

So what happened, Terry..? Do you own two NOS plugs..? Inquiring minds want to know......

There is a torque spec listed in the manuals, but as Monty stated, no one has ever used it. Just tighten securely. It isn't neccessary to go crazy tightening lug nuts, just a little over snug. Impact wrenches are fine is used correctly, but seldom are...

Those plugs are worth a whole lot more right where they are, in the original box, used as a novelty item. As far as a superior plug, they were just another gimmick that wouldn't do anything for your cars performance, and in truth, aren't as good as stock plugs. If they did anything close to their claims, they would still be in business, and everyone would be using them... Leave 'em in the boxes.......

That is a great article, TG57Roadmaster. It's a keeper.! I will make a copy of it, even if it does have a Chrysler product in it... I was a few years away from being thought of in '35. I believe my parents were married in 1937, since I still have the restored 1937 Philco Chair side radio they purchased when first married. That's the same Philco we listened to "Intersantum" on while growing up , and were too afraid to go to sleep. I believe my father went to work for Jewel-T in 1938. From pictures I have seen in the family archives, his first panel was a 1938 Chevy. I believe the salesmen purchased the vehicle of their choice, and the company paid for them. Not much has changed since then, I still have a garage full of Chevrolets, along with my '51 Olds. I sent this thread to my older sister so I will see if my memories were even close.... Thanks to all for the memories..... That could be a song title..!

How about Jewel-T..? My father was a Jewel-T route salesman in the 30's and 40's. They used panel trucks to deliver their wares. The trucks went door to door in the semi-rural area, pedaling soap, coffee, Tea, etc, just about any and every product a housewife could use. They used dishes as premiums to help sell their products. Buy so much product and you would win a dish. Housewives would collect entire sets of dishes, etc. In those days of extremely tight money, those dishes were godsends..! Their "Hall Autumn Leaf" china was extremely popular, and today is quite collectable. http://www.chinaspecialties.com/jewel_t_&_autumn_leaf.htm They had competition with a company using a similar method of distribution called "Grand Union" Both of those companies were big in middle America. I also remember getting coal, ice, milk, bread delivered. And the famous Helms fleet in Long Beach

what is a link to their site? I'm not familiar with them, but willing to look at them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Brandon Hunt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">About 20 years ago, the owner of a local Cadillac dealership said he'd give my grandfather $250,000 and any 2 Cadillacs on his lot in trade for the vehicle... </div></div> Not to dash your hopes, but I have heard this story many times over the years, attached to other old cars that came along. It is one of those legends that keeps reappearing over the years... Not to say your truck isn't valuable or worth restoring, just pointing out a story we have all heard before, and doesn't really equate to actual value..!