johnworden1

44 teeth spiral and bevel cut ring gear. Manufacturer unknown. Or, can anyone suggest a company that is capable of building a new ring and pinion? Contact John Worden 641-474-2313 in Iowa central time zone days or early evening. Truck is being restored by the Gladbrook Iowa VFD who are the original owners. Thank you

I have had decals made ( at considerable expense ) for the 0-60 mph speed indicating revolving drum in the Stewart speedo. They are a very accurate reproduction of the original. I can provide photos to anyone interested in buying one. I will most likely remove the old numbers and off white paint from the drum and repaint it before installing the new decal. I will probebly cut the decal into 2 pieces to make it easier to handle during application. I need $50 for each one and I have 4 to sell. Thanks. John Worden Green Mountain Iowa Phone 641-474-2313

Steve, If it's of any help may I suggest that a typo or human error may be why the seller thought your Milburn was a 1915. If the title shows 1915 these two reasons may also apply. As far as dating your car I would look at the available photos of existing Milburns and to a lesser extent the factory ads to see which year Milburn shares the various parts such as headlight placement, wire or wood spoke wheels, bumpers, type of front leaf springs etc. with yours. Correctly dated cars with the same features as yours would, in my mind at least, indicate the year yours was built. The car number should fit in there also. John Worden

I think 1986 was the last year for a 2 door caprice. John Worden

Can need some repair. Phone 641-474-2313 in Iowa. Thanks. John Worden

Can need some repair. Please phone 641-474-2313 in Iowa. Thanks. John Worden

See BUY/SELL in GENERAL FORUMS for details. Thanks. John Worden

Restoration project located in central Iowa. $1500.00 Prefer to sell it to and restore it for the same person. Best to call as I don't look at this site every day. Phone 641-474-2313 home and shop. Thanks. John Worden

with 3 (three) hub cap retaining lugs to fit a 1968 GTO. The code HG is stamped next to the valve stem hole on the exterior side. I don't absoluteley have to have the code but do need the 3 lugs. John Worden 641-474-2313 Iowa

If the floor is not available through the aftermarket I may be able to make the parts you need. I would need a measured drawing, or photo or the actual part for a pattern. I can provide photos of parts I have made. Send a SASE to John Worden 405 Green Mountain Iowa 50632 Phone 641-474-2313

The lift mechanism fits into the door through the window opening slot. Be sure to lubricate and check the moving parts for proper operation before fitting it into door. I think there are 3 small screws that secure the machanism and allow for some adjustment. After you get the mechanism in and loosely screwed into place, wind it down to it's lowest point to allow clearance for the glass and channel to fit downward into the interior of the door. I believe the window opening channel has to be removed before the glass can go in. The glass with lift channel attached go into the door also through the window opening slot. You may have to rotate the glass around some in order to get it to fit down into the interior of the door. While a helper holds the glass approx. half way to the fully closed position slowly wind the mechanism up to meet the glass and channel. This meeting of parts should be visible through the opening in the interior side of the door. Connect the lift channel and glass to the mechanism. Fit the window opening channel back in and 3 small rubber bumpers. Wind glass up and down to check its operation and tighten mechanism screws once you achieve free movement up and down. Adjust down stop as needed. John Worden

Naval-jelly certainly is good for removing rust. RustMort type products aren't intended for rust removal. Instead, they chemically convert rust to something that is safe to fill, or prime over. I use it to treat metal that I'm not 100% sure that the rusting action is stopped. In those situations the peace of mind is priceless. John Worden

If these are not available through the aftermarket, I may be able to make them. I would need photos, a measured drawing or the actual piece for a pattern. I can send photos of previous work to you If you will send a SASE. John Worden 405 Green Mountain Road, Green Mountain Iowa 50632 Phone 641-474-2313 central time

Your cleaning steps will do a lot of good. After cleaning and before priming consider treating the pitted metal with RustMort by SEM or another product of that type. From experience I do recommend RustMort. John Worden

Speedster, Your primer-filler-primer process is a proven one. I suggest using a regular filler instead of the glazing or finishing type for the rust pit filling you describe. I believe the glazing or finishing fillers were meant to fill surface defects such as pin holes and sand scratches. For the work you describe I would probebly prime, fill, sand with nothing coarser than 80 grit, apply a thin layer of glazing filler over all the previous filler to fill sand scratches and pin holes and sand with nothing coarser than 180 in preperation for another coat of primer. Guide coats work on fillers also. Tweek these grits to suit yourself and the products you use. I believe for the work you describe this method would quickly and efficiently eliminate the pitting on large areas. I don't reccommend using any type of primer to fill pits. High build primers are great products but they will fail if used in excessive thickness. My advice in your case is to achieve finish contour with filler and fill remaining sand scratches 180 or finer with primers only thick enough to do the job. Excessive mill thickness even in the best primers will most likely crack. John Worden

Most if not all of the filler manufacturers now offer a material that requires the addition of hardener and are intended to replace the old one part glazes. These new fillers are of a fine texture, spread easily and level themselves somewhat. They are easy to sand with finer grit paper and I sometimes sand them wet. They can be bought in fairly small quantities also. I think they are more suitable to paint systems that use hardened primers, colors and clear coats than the old lacquer based putty. ( putty is for plumbers ) John Worden

Located in central Iowa. Needs engine work. $1750 Call 641-474-2313 or email jbw.worden@adiis.net

Steve, I took the photo of the 1919 with my 35 mm camera. My scanner is still in the box and I haven't yet mastered sending photos with a post to this site. I would like for you to see both photos so the SASE is best at this time. John Worden

We have everything for the 1915 Milburn car #15106 in my shop except a clock. It should be a manual winding clock and fit into a 2 3/4" hole in the dash panel. Without further research I can't say who the clock maker was. Any leads appreciated. Thanks. John Worden Green Mountain Iowa 641-474-2313

I have milburn car number 15106 in my shop for restoration now. The car came into my shop without a tailight. I visited the Iowa Historical Society Museum in downtown Des Moines and looked at the tailight on their 1919 Milburn. The mounting bracket was identical to the bracket in the 1915. I decided to attempt to replicate the 1919 tailight. I can't say for sure it is correct for the 15 however. I ordered a brass model T tailight ( part # T 6568 BR ) from Birdhaven Vintage auto parts in Colfax Iowa ( 515-674-3949 ) It is nearly identical to the 19 Milburn and can easily be modified to look even better. To do so, drill out the rivits that attach the mounting socket and rotate the socket so that it allows the wireing conduit to point inboard and re rivit the socket back onto the tailight body. Paint the body black. I nickel plated the lens retainer to match the plated parts on the car. Restoration Supply ( Escondito Ca. 1-800-674-3949 ) has a black plastic wire socket # ELEO 141 that is identical to the original and will plug into the tailight wire conduit. Use stainless flex conduit # ELEO 71 from Resto supply to run from the plastic plug up under the car body enclosing the light wires. You will need to slightly enlarge the hole in the plastic plug so the end of the flex can slip in and devise a way to keep the end in the plug. I haven't done that yet but it should be simple enough. I have a photo of the 1919 tailight and the new parts just described. Send me a SASE and I will send copies of the photos to you. John Worden 405 Green Mountain Road, Green Mountain Iowa 50632 Phone 641-474-2313 days Hope this helps. John Worden

I may be able to make the doors and hood for the Stude. I would need measured drawings or photos or patterns or the body. I can send photos of work I've done in the past if you wish. John Worden 405 Green Mountain Road, Green Mountain Iowa 50632 Phone 641-474-2313

Steve, Can you describe the arms in detail? Tubular steel? Painted? Plated? Stainless Steel? Etc. What are the head dimensions? I may be able to make new ones if I had specific info or a photo or drawing. John Worden 405 Green Mountain Road, Green Mountain Iowa 50632 Phone 641-474-2313

Dave, On the 42 I restored I mounted the running boards in their proper place, installed the small rubber cushions in the lower edge of the cab below the doors and made blocks that positioned the cab so that the rubber cushions just made contact with the top surfaces of the running boards. Be sure to use the proper dimension wood blocks that fit in the running board brackets. JW

Moldings of various types such as rocker moldings, hood lip moldings etc. in usable or even restorable condition are sometimes next to impossible to find. Consider having new ones made. If you will provide a detailed description or photo or measured drawing of the piece I will decide if I can make it or not. A description should include length, width, thickness of the material, type of material, (stainless, pot metal, plated, anodized, painted,?) method of attachment, and contour shape. Post the info here or contact me directly. Thanks. John Worden 405 Green Mountain Road, Green Mountain Iowa 50632 Phone 641-474-2313 jbw.worden@adiis.net

Reg, send a drawing or photo of what you want the sides to look like. I may be able to fabricate them for you. I recently fabricated bed sides and end panel for a 1942 Dodge 1/2 ton pu. I also have experience working on the vintage power wagon boxes. John Worden 405 Green Mountain Road, Green Mountain Iowa 50632 Phone 641-474-2313 Thanks John Worden