eric_b_1937

It looks like a Series 80-90 closed car handle of the second type. It was miss labled when I purchased it. So I will pass it on to someone who is restoring a 80-90. Thanks 50jetback

The NOS handle casting is identical to the original even the part numbers casted into it. The part that is different is the steel shaft that is casted into the handle. Has anyone reproduced the locking door handle for a 1937?

I purchased a similar NOS Locking Door handle that had never been drilled. Is it it the same one? The shaft is too short for my 1937 Sr 40. The shaft is three inches. Does anyone know what series this handle is for? Or could it be manufacturing screw up? Original 1937 handle on the Left NOS handle on the Right.

For Buick performance tests look at “Brook lands books - Buick Cars 1929 - 1939, by R.M. Clarke” this book has re-prints of the British Autocar and Motor magazine from 1930’s which is similar to today’s car and driver magazine. The Motor magazine article that was written in 1934 for a Buick Viceroy Saloon with 235 cu in motor It states that ”A normal main road cruising speed for this car is around 60 mph at which figure it runs very quietly at about half throttle. The maximum speed recorded on the level (level ground) was 74 mph but with a little help from wind or gradient it is possible to top 80 mph without much difficulty.” Since we know that drivers expected 70 mph car’s in the mid 1930’s then we need to know if it was safe to stop. I picked a comparison to a modern truck that weighs about 5,000 lbs the suspension and driving characteristics are similar to an old Buick and a lot of people drive a similar vehicle every day. According to motor week test data a 2004 F-150 with disc brakes will stop from 60 mph in 150 feet. The 1934 weighs 3,850 lbs. and has vacuum mechanical brakes the Motor magazine test data shows that the Buick will stop from 50 mph in 119 feet. Correct for speed and they should be similar distances. Modern car's and trucks have disc brakes because of overheating of the drums brakes on curves and mountain terrain which cause brake fade "longer stopping distance". Thus crashes. So well maintained brakes on a collector car should be safe as long as you do not overheat them in stop and go traffic or several high speed stops in a row. Fuel milage specs are interesting too. 15 mpg to 17 mpg for the 1934 Buick 14 mpg to 18 mpg for the 2004 F-150 truck Look at the performance data of the day and come to a reasonable conclusion on how you should drive your car.

I have a 1941 buick dual carb air cleaner that I restored and it had what I believe is horse hair material as filter media. I cleaned and dried the material and put it back in the houseing then spayed a thin coat of oil on the material.

First off to get some help you should change the title of your post to 1934 Buick....etc. to catch the attention of people who own these cars. 1. Join the Buick club of America and contact the Technical Advisor for your year of car and read the magazine for parts vendors. 2. Post photo's of the car and the ID plate numbers on this board so you know exactly what you have. 3. Purchase a maintenance manual from vendors listed in Hemmings Motor news or on the internet. 4. Assemble all the loose parts so that you know what you have or need before starting the restoration. 5. Examine the wear of engine, break, transmission, components. Estimate if the odometer is correct. They only went to 100000 so your car may possibly have 176000. 6. Depending on the condition of the car it may only need a engine rebuild, brake job, and general maintenance. Or a Frame up restoration. 7. Cost? Engine overhaul estimate $1000 - $5000, Other Mechanical items to get it back on the road $1000 - $5000. Body and trim cost the sky is the limit.

There is a seller on ebay that has side mount mirrors for 36 and 37 Buicks. They fit to the sidemount cover molding. But you have to drill a hole in the trim.

Use the Domed pistons. They will give the engine more power and fit fine. I don't think anyone makes reproduction flat pistons. You can also use inserted rod bearings with some modification.

Try This Site Nostalgia Air: Resource By Manufacturer

The Shiny stuff I could think of. There is a mixture of chrome and stainless all over the 1937 Buick car body and in the systems. Bumper - Chrome Grille - Chrome Hood Ornament - Chrome Grille emblems - Chrome and enameld/ cloisonné Steering wheel emblem - Chrome and enameld/ cloisonné Horn Ring - Chrome Clock body - Chrome Intrument trim - Chrome Speaker grille - Chrome park light trim - Chrome Sun Visor Bracket - Chrome Wiper transmission - Chrome Door handles - Chrome Trunk handle - Chrome Window Track - Chrome Wind Wing Trim - Stainless Steel Headlight trim - Stainless Steel Headlight trim ring - Stainless Steel Center hood Trim - Stainless steel cover over steel Center Grille Trim - Stainless steel Hood side trim - stainless steel Hood side vent - stainless steel Door side trim - Stainless steel Running board trim - Stainless steel cover over steel Side mount trim -Stainless Steel Hubcaps - Stainless steel cover over steel Trim rings - Stainless steel Gas cap - stainless steel Trunk light trim - Stainless Steel Hood handles - Stainless Steel dash knob trim - Stainless Steel Banjo Steering Wheel - Stainless Steel Seat parts - ? Engine parts -? dome Light - ? Dome Light Switch - ?

Be very careful. I broke one recently trying to get it out of a 1935 engine block. try using penetrating oils and nice fitting needle nose pliers with a wiggle motion to free it. But remember it is delicate.

The Buick left the factory with a steel fuel line from fuel tank to pump to carburator. No rubber lines. I believe for safety reasons. Steel lines are harder to bend and install on a functional vehicle. So a lot of car's have some sections of rubber as repacement. But the rubber can collapse or rot many years in the future and cause fuel delivery problems.

The diaphram in your fuel pump may be bad. Older rubbers may not be compatable with alcohol in today's fuels so it causes a loss of elasticity in the diaphram which then decreases the pumping pressure. Depending on the last time the fuel pump was rebuilt it might have had an old diaphram installed. On my car I went thru three NOS pumps untill I rebuilt one with all new parts and it is working fine.

Your Buick is a great looking project. I have two methods of restoring a car If you have the money up front and think you can get it all totally restored in less than two years then do a frame off restoration and restore all components back to factory specs. But since this is probably not the case then you need to spread the cost out over time. Do not tear down the car until you believe you have the best car possible to start the restoration and all the parts are on the car. 1. Buy all the books you can about your car. 2. Clean the car under carriage, engine bay, interior, and body of all grease oil and dirt. 3. Drive the car a lot to find the weak components and restore them as you find them. 4. If the engine, transmission, rear end, brakes etc. needs rebuilt, remove, rebuild and replace it and go on looking for other problems with the car. 5. If the seats are torn, broken down etc. repair to a point of usability, but don't to a full interior restoration yet. 6. keep the car in a clean dry environment and the rust will not grow. A little rain now and then should not change the condition much as long as it is dry when put away. 7. Pull trim parts one at a time and restore. Then replace. Buy a trim restoration book. 8. You can make the paint presentable by doing spot repairs, color sand and buff the paint to knock off the patina, if the rust spots are larger use a sander, primer and color match the paint. This can make the car a five footer. 9. When the day comes where all systems are working correctly and all it needs is body work and new paint, then do the frame up restoration. Keep the time dismantled to under two years. 10. Install the new interior. 11. Done.. you have a car with good paint, trim, mechanicals, and interior. Enjoy.

The 1930's - 1940's Motors manuals have a lot of info for your car. They are usually available at swap meets and ebay. Check your local libary or university they might have one on the book shelf.

They look like the tire covers on my 1937 Buick. Possibly used on other GM cars as well.

Try this starting procedure it worked on my car. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Tro...m#Hardstarthot See my fuels discussion http://forums.aaca.org/f169/calling-fuels-experts-263681.html

I am looking for reproduction defroster ducts for my 1937 Buick. The rubber has aged and cracked. I believe they were used on many makes and models of GM cars. Does anyone have any supplier information? Or do I need to reproduce them myself? <imgsrc="http://photos.aaca.org/files/4/2/9/7/1/1937_buick_defroster_ducts_img_3549.jpg"alt="1937 Buick Defroster Ducts" /> http://photos.aaca.org/files/4/2/9/7/1/1937_buick_defroster_ducts_img_3549.jpg

I was recently discussing fuel problems on the General Forum. Take a look. http://forums.aaca.org/f169/calling-fuels-experts-263681.html

It was a 98 degree day here in Kansas so I took the car out for a 10 mile drive. Then shut it off and I took temperature readings. The carb temp was 160 degrees. I turned off my electric fuel pump and used the mechanical fuel pump. I then tested the Carb Kings starting procedure. It worked great. At exactly 5 seconds of cranking I pressed the accelerator pedal down 1/3 and it fired up. Thanks Carb King. Now I'll probably try ceramic tape around the exhaust and manifolds to reduce the engine bay temperature a few degrees.

Currently the car starts instantly when cold. After a 5-10 mile drive and shut down the heat soaks the system. I have not seen bubbles in the fuel bowl so gas bubbles must be in the carburetor or upper lines. It then takes a minute or two of cranking and pumping the accelerator pedal to dump the fuel as soon a cold fuel hits the carburetor it starts. I believe my carburetor is operating properly but I will re-check the line fittings. The Buick does not have any OEM heat shields around the carburetor except a new insulation block and I have the splash pan/air ducting installed. My current operating procedure is to let the engine idle some before shut down and then open the hood to dissipate heat. I will try the Carb shops revised starting procedure. Since I was not around in 1937 I can not know from first hand experience if they had hard starting problems with the original gasoline. But I do have Autocar test drive reports written at the time that give performance figures and detailed reviews of the vehicle by independent test drivers and they give no indication of hard starts in these documents. Which to me would have been a major red flag for a car purchase in the 1930's. If hard start was a major problem at the time engineering would have issued service bulletins and fixes for the problem which I can not find. So that leads me back to the gasoline. Kerosene requires a higher temperature than E10 gasoline for combustion so a solution of the two just might solve the problem. I know jet fuel is mostly Kerosene, does AVGAS a lower concentration of Kerosene? As fuels change in the future we antique car owners might have to become chemist in order to drive.

Is anyone using Aviation MOGAS or Avgas grade 82 UL in their Antique car's? If so has it reduced hot start and vapor locking problems? How easy is it to get? I have a 1937 Buick that I have problems with hot start after a drive using E10 Regular gasoline from the Auto pump. I have insulated most of the fuel lines near the engine, correct routing of line, electric pump, and have a carb Insulation block. I have not tried different fuel. From my understanding, most all low octane gas in the U.S. has 10% Ethanol mixed in and This ethanol boils off and creates air bubbles in the fuel line. The temperature comming off the top of the radiator is about 130 and the bottom can be as high as 200, my altitude is about 1000'. 10% ethanol Gasoline Boiling point ranges from 100 to 400 F depending on altitude Ethanol component boiling point 173 °F Methanol component Boiling point 148.5°F I might try to drop my carb and line temp more by wrapping fuel lines and exhaust in ceramic tape. But it would be nice to have the correct fuel the car was designed for. 75 octane no lead. http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ub...e_au#Post517443

CAPS, Broken english, Cut and paste, Unlikely story. Looks like a Nigerian Scammer to me.

1. Best days to attend are Thursday and Friday. I usually go on Friday and it seems that all the vendors are set up. But Thursday is probably when most of the swapping happens within the first four hours after setup. 3. There is a lot of brass era and pre-war parts. The prices are usually higher than other swap meets because the part owners know what they have. But these experts could be helpful in finding a rare part that is not on the table. Good luck and have a good time.

I pulled the Running board trim mouldings off the car and they are double wall construction. The inner steel liner has had considerable corrosion. This caused convex bulging of the stainless cover I also have some concave dents from car doors etc. So since it is a real risk of further damage to try and pull the stainless cover, I am looking for a pair of good running board trim. They are about 63 inches long and any leads will help.