tbirdman

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Owen_Dyneto</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For the most part it's a whole different world, and owners of these cars tend to move in different circles </div></div> But We will Still let you talk to use, if you buy one. There's really Not much Brass on the '12 Caddy, is there? I didn't realize that. </div></div> That's why I would keep the Packard. How could I leave you all

The nice thing is that everything on this car has been rebuilt include the the expensive hand made stuff. Ironically the owner traded the car to a dealer in exchange for a Packard plus money back. He already had another brass car so he felt he didn't need to. I sort of the same way, but going in the opposite direction. I also was considering a 37 super sedan Packard that wasn't as nice as my 32. I was considering it for touring purposes but almost felt that I would be duplicating cars of the same era. Though the 37 would ride a hell of a lot better than my 32. With limit space and $, I feel the need to go older into a different era. The one thing I wrestle with is I won't have a car to do carefree long distance touring like the T-Bird if I get the brass car. Yep some of those brass cars have gotten really expensive though the 1012 Cadillac seems a good compromise between a common Model T and a very high end car. It is a watermark car as it is the first car with an electic starter.

This car is the first one with electric start.

I'm contemplating selling my 64 Bird and picking up a 1912 Cadillac that is in great shape with a ton of mechanicals done. Car is very well sorted out. I have never owned a brass car, so I'm not sure what the experience is like. I think I would like one, but I hate to get into one and find out differently. I do relaize that my top speed willbe restricted and highways are off limits. For those that have owned pre-war Packards whci I'm familiar with, how does brass car ownership compare?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrpushbutton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wouldn't that car ordinarily have the grille inserts and louvers painted? </div></div> "Ordinarily," yes. But as Ken said, anyway you want it. Personally, I prefer the shell painted, with the inserts and louvers kept chrome. I've seen all chrome; all paint; shell painted louvers chrome; shell chrome louvers painted. </div></div> I 2nd the motion of liking chrome shutters and painted grill shell. The chrome grill sets off the front end, butthe grill shell is too much. Also the painted shell makes the car look longer.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1935Packard</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"Skinned Knuckes" looks terrific -- thanks for the reference. I plan to subscribe. </div></div> Glad I could help. Here's the link for Skinned Knuckles Magazine.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 34PackardRoadsta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ken, Oh yeah? Well my coupe roadster can beat up your coupe roadster! T p.s. I will see if I can find Auto Notes. Amazing the freaking diversity of periodicals. </div></div> Another interesting magazine is Skinned Knuckles. As the title implies, it's a lot of hands on articles. Every magazine has been a delight to read. I normally give away my magazines that I subscribe to quite quickly to a friend, but I told him his not getting these as they have a lot of valuable references.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Steve_Mack_CT</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Would one of you guys mind posting the phone number, web site, address, etc. for this magazine? Mr. Google was not helpful this time. Thanks </div></div> E2315 County Road B Scandinavia, WI 54977 715-445-5387 kcmath@tds.net

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrpushbutton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wouldn't that car ordinarily have the grille inserts and louvers painted? </div></div> The shutters and the grille shutter could be had either way.

I thought Tom might be interested. I just received unsolicited in the mail, a introductory magazine issue called Prewar autonotes. It has an article in it about the 34 Packard specifically with pictures of a coupe roadster. What was interesting is the article talked about the 33 packards but did not mentioned 32 at all. I consider the 32-34 all quite similiar though the 32 is the best looking of the three years

Negotiating with a plater...hopefully they won't raise the price on you Have you tried sending it out of the country like Canada or Mexico? The cost of plating is another reason why people should restore the more expensive car you can as they can afford as the cost of plating and paint (for the same quality) costs the same on a cheap car vs. an expensive car. Or you can use West's suggestion and use Arkansas chrome Ken

The 4 post will work with lower ceilings, you just won't be able to get the car up high enough to stand underneath it. I bought a lift so I could safely work underneath my cars. It's better than jack stands and easy to get the car up in the air. I have 9' ceilings.

I have bought the copper crush washers for both the 15/16 and 3/8 diameter. Tomorrow I plan to buy the red fiber washers from Restoration Supply . Today and yesterday and went to every auto store including 3 NAPAs and some HW stores. The problem washer was the 15/16". Well I should have some by the end of the week so I can try to start the car next weekend. Well I use the sunny weather today to power wash the moss off the sidewalk and patio-an annual ritual here in the Pacific Northwest.

The washer was rubber which probably not the best material. The rubber tore and I had a little gas shower happening. I have located both a crush washer and a red fiber washer. My concern is that the crush washer won't crush enough as the lip is only 1/8" and the crush washers start out at a 3/32" thickness. The red fiber washer is 1/32" thick which seems just right for this application. I also need a second washer 3/8" inner diameter at the bottom, but for that either a fiber or a crush washer would work. Your thoughts?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well I'll be trying to start my 32 after the long winter project on the engine bay. Besides what Tom wrote, I will add a prayer this Saturday to my starting sequence. </div></div> Well I went to start it and developed a leak at the fuel inlet to the carb. It takes a verythin 15/16" washer/gasket, and I was unable to find one local. Can't seem to find anything online as everything looks to thick. Any ideas?

I would measure the voltage at the red and white wires to see what is occurring when you switch from high to low. If both have voltage on them, then work our way back to the steering wheel switch. If the high beam wire switches on and off then perhaps it's a socket issue. You never know what people have done in the past with these cars. My right high beam headlight working was working when I got my car. There was some cryptic notes with the car about a loose connector. When I took apart the headligght when I restored them, I discoverd a single filiament bulb.

Thanks for the advice. I have an electric fuel pump and the mechanical was just rebuilt. All should be well, but you never know what I screwed up over the winter with my great mechnaical abilities.

Well I'll be trying to start my 32 after the long winter project on the engine bay. Besides what Tom wrote, I will add a prayer this Saturday to my starting sequence.

I located from a CCCA member one of those units that some mentioned that you stick water and a air hose into. When you press a handle, the air presure sends a shock wave of air through the system. The block was very clean so I did not get much out. However I did notice that the water pump was dripping around the water pump very slightly. The water pump had been built about 10 years ago and wasn't leaking when I started this project 6 months ago. Should I try to just tighten the packing nut a little to stop the leak?

Twitch, No heater. I have not started the car since last October and right now the the radiator is not connected. I wasn't planning on starting the engine to flush everythhing out. Most of the coolant should be drained as I removed the head and the water jacket, and water pump. I was going to run a water hose into the lower inlet and then wait until it the outlet became clear. I'm rigging a pvc pipe and with hoses setup so I don't get water all over the garage/car.

Tom, Hate to say it, but mine didn't even look close to as bad as your looks. Mine had zero rust. Ken

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Owen_Dyneto</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sometimes you can find at flea markets for a few bucks the gadget many repair shops used to flush the block (or radiator), and in this case I'd flush the block backwards. Remove the hoses and the thermostat. The gadget has two inlet connections on it, garden hose for water and an air chuck for compressed air. The business end that goes into the lower hose to the block is a series of tapered steps to accomodate a variety of hose sizes. This method with some compressed air burbling with the water is quite a bit more effective than just using pressurized city water. Another way you might try is the same, flushing in from the bottom block hose, but block off the thermostat outlet and open one or two year core plugs. The flushings doing this often look like run-off from the Mesabi Range. Very effective. </div></div> No thermostat in my car. I plan to run some 3' long rubber 1/2" diameter hoses to the engine inlet and outlet. I then will attached with hose clamps 10' long 1" PVC pipe to the hoses so I can run water into the bottom outlet and easily funnel the water coming from the top outlet. I am to keep any mess away from the car.

Tom, If you read the thread on mine thta Speedster posted, I was afraid of breaking it, but just gave it enough pull with a needle nose that it popped out. Though I had to get mine fixed (No big deal as I was restoring the guage anyway)because I had unsolder the end at the gauge not realizing the results of my actions.

The radiator has been flushed. My concerned is anything coming from the engine when I strat it and clogging the recently serviced radiator.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: R W Burgess</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Gentlemen, I have received a complaint about P F Hartmann coming back onto our forums. His posts have been removed. We regret that other posts may have been removed with his. Be advised that this gentleman has a permanent banning against him. His use of our forums is forbidden by the AACA Board. If anyone has any questions about this situation, they can call AACA Headquarters in Hershey, Pennsylvania Monday morning and receive any clarifications needed over this edit. R W Burgess </div></div> RW, It seems to me that Peter's post were excellent, but he got jumped by a bunch of others for reasons which I do not understand. I do enjoy Peter's posts, and though all may not agree with them, they do not contain anything I would consider grounds for getting kicked off the forum. In fact I think those that were against him on this thread, showed a lack of tolerance for someone with a difference of opinion.