tbirdman

Well putting on the hood looks more difficult than it probably is. I have the hood resting on the radiator and cowl now. The radiator end has the center rod inserted into chromed raditor opening. I need to figure out the easiest way to fasten the hood clamp to the cowl. Is this a 2-3 man job?

That's for your confirmation of movement in the shutters. I never noticed it before, but you discover these things when you putthings back together. I gotthe hood back on the car, Now I need to try and secure and align it.

Well define small. I'm not getting a lot but there there's enough that you can move the shutters. Remember it doesn't take much movement on the thermostatic control to translate into larger movements on the shutters. Again not at either end of the travel, but between the ends.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Owen_Dyneto</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You should not be able to move the shutter blades and linkage while it's connected to the thermostat. With the linkage disconnected you can open and close the shutters by moving the linkage rod, though it takes quite a bit of effort to move it against the spring. </div></div> I spoke with Jim Otto who rebuilt the thermostatic control. Between the fully cold and full hot positions, there will be some play on the thermostatic control. Looks like I got it working. So looks like tomorrow is a day to put the hood, lights and horns back on, wash it and take it for a test drive.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Owen_Dyneto</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You should not be able to move the shutter blades and linkage while it's connected to the thermostat. With the linkage disconnected you can open and close the shutters by moving the linkage rod, though it takes quite a bit of effort to move it against the spring. </div></div> I put the thermostatic control in a pan of water and heated it. Until the thermostatic control was all the way open, he could move the center plunger back and forth. Once it got to the very end of it's travel, it was solid as a rock. Is this how they are suppose to work?

I have also noticed that while looking for cadmium plated bolts for my Packard, that Harleys have bolt heads labeled 1038CP.

You are all welcomed to it's 100 year birthday in three years

Well the deal is done. here are more pictures. I figure this would be a car that West would love. No chrome and black wall tires I understand it was featured in the July/August 2006 AACA magazine in a short two page story. Hopefully I will resist touching it in an effort to make it "better". Now I just need to sell the Bird. so that I can get the Cadillac shipped to me. Anyone want to buy the Tbirdman.com domain name

I'm trying to get my grill shutters to work. I plan to take the themostatic assembly apart, but it appears I can move the the thermostic control by hand and that should not be possible if the thermostic control is working. Looking for advice here on possible issues. I had the thermostatic control rebuilt.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave Mitchell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Doing the woodgrain will help a lot, and the progress you have made is super. Make sure your woodgraining company knows the 35 12 pattern - it is a very plain, straight grain. The cheaper cars in 35 had burl, and I have seen a couple of restored 12s that people paid a lot to have done incorrectly. </div></div> Dave, Great advice. I first was recommend to a "Packard expert". I told him exactly the pattern that a 32 had. He proceeded to do it is way. When I called Grain-it they guy I spoke with new axactly the correct pattern. Cost me more but if you want to be authentic as possible, be wise.

Well thanks for all of the help I received. I again learned something. You think I would be real smart by now

So that 34 coupe... was that the car Bert had and was trying to covert into a roadster? Friend of mind is do a power wagon restore with a twist, king cab. He got the cabs from some one who takes two cabs and makes a king cab out of them. Aksi is outting a diesel Cummings in it.

OK found an external gauge that was accurate. It was measuring about 75 lbs at start up. I turn the oil relief valve screw about 2 turns conterclockwise as the maunal said about 5 lbs per turn. It now reads about 53 lbs at start up and down to about 35 when hot and idling.

Superods, yes, but you are still under $1000 and then you can do all the rice burners cars in the neighborhood So for a car with a dash and a few panels you are easily at $2K. I heard wood paneling is coming back so you could do woodgraining of your sheetrock remember, he who dies with the most tools wins:-)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: superods</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One puts his mind to it ...often they do better work than the professional. Now, having but one or maybe two cars...not cost effective. When you have a few ...then you can save 1000 to 1800 per dash and 250 each window. It is all in the tools! </div></div> So I guess the ones I saw were done by "mindless" owners The kits are around $400 so I think they are cost effective for a single dash. For us "do it ourselves owner" we tend to spend more time as our time is "free" unlike the professional. The proessional has the experience/knowledge advantage.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1935Packard</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ken, Never having tried it before, I figure I should probably leave it to the professionals -- the last thing I want is to go through all that time and effort and screw it up. (Plus, I need some metal work done on the dash and frame, so I figure this is a job to be outsourced.) </div></div> The kit look pretty easy as I saw it demoed. But agree with you. Most home done woodgrain projects look...well home done.

If you are talented, you could order a wood graining kit and do the dash yourself from here . I had them do my woodgraining. About $1200 for the dash and glove box doors. Or you could do what a friend of mine did and go real cheap with shelf lining wood pattern contact paper.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Rick I doubt that Dietrich would have installed those. </div></div> Yes Dietrich would had gotten Pep Boys or Autozone to install the shocks

Very noticable difference. It's amazing what a little detailing can do. Keep up the progress.

1964 Thunderbird Convertible For Sale: asking $39K. I hate to part with this car, but I have purchased a 1912 Cadillac, and it is not physically possible for two cars to occupy the same space. This 1964 model has the soft top which folds into the trunk. The car is 95% stock but easily could be return to stock. Major items not stock are engine accessories and paint. Though not a frame off restoration, it’s easier probably to say what has not been done to this car. It is a very high quality 2+ condition car but also is extremely reliable for long distance touring. In 2003, 2004,2005 and 2006 it completed 1500 mile tours. One of those tours was in 106 degree weather. I suffered, but the car ran great. It has won many local shows including Best of Show at the 2005 All Ford Show, 1st place at 2005 VTCI International Meet and second place at the Forest Grove Concours. The paint is a single stage 1964 Ferrari red with a shine a mile deep. Currently the hood is being repainted to fix some minor road chips. I have own the car for 10 years and everything has been completely rebuilt or replaced. The 390 CI engine has been rebuilt about 8000 miles ago. It features an Edlebrock performance aluminum intake with a dual feed Holley 670 CFM carburetor. The valve covers are custom made finned aluminum. Other engine compartment work included: recored radiator rebuilt fuel pump, starter, brake booster, steering box and new generator, MSD ignition box and MSD electronic distributor ceramic coated exhaust manifold The front end has been completed rebuilt. Drive shaft was rebuilt and balanced. Rear end rebuilt with new gears. Brakes completely rebuilt with stainless steel brake lines. Exhaust is stainless steel. The interior has been complete redone with new door panels and leather seat upholstery stitched to the original vinyl pattern. The radio looks stock, but has an internal am/fm electronics. All interior chrome redone along with the polished anodized aluminum trim. All window rubber replaced and window trim was rechomed or repolished. The aluminum grill has been anodized and is straight as an arrow. All bumpers have been rechromed. Tail lights have been modified with sequential flasher circuit to replicate the sequential tail lights introduced in the 1965 Thunderbird. To protect the car, a alarm was installed with a remote alert. This car would be a show and go car. Nothing left to do. If you want to drive a mechanically reliable car yet be one of the best looking cars at a cruise in, this car is it. For further pictures, please go to here.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'd chose the 900, so I guess we wouldn't be fighting over the same car driving up the price. </div></div> West you're choosing a car not knowing which has less chrome and blackwall tires:-)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: superods</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Now another question for you. Which of the two vehicles would you purchase if they were priced near the same and in the same condition....a 32 shovel nose convertible coupe or the 33 victoria convertible? Appreciate your input. </div></div> From a pure resale value, ou should choose the Victoria though the shovel nose is more sporty. I myself do not care for the shovel nose so I must likely would go with the Victoria which is a very elegant body style. Both are classics.

If I had the garage space I would, but totally out of space. Though like I said before it's hard enough to keep two cars running, let alone three. Well I hope the prospective buyer's like how clean the T-bird is. There are a fair amount of 64-66 T-Bird convertibles for sale, but I don't think I've seen one as sharp as mind.

I guess I need to pick a different name than Tbirdman. Should be interesting with a brass car but I think I will enjoy it along with a whole new crowd I will get to know.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1935Packard</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-style: italic">at the March RM auction a 32 eight roadster sold for $148K. It appeared to be a 2ish car. It just showed up on Hyman LTD webiste, who's a dealer. Guaranteed the asking price will be $190K and he will let it go for $180K-$168K. </span> Looks like the asking price is $182,5000. </div></div> I wish I was as close in my stock market predictions So I would have to say even at 50K the 33 Packard Victoria is a great price unless it is truly a basket case. You have a lot of upside room when you do a restoration.