tbirdman

Just a V12 engine rebuild approaches 30K while a high performance 500 CI Chebby is under 10K easily.

Looking for info on how to adjust the carb. Can't find any info anywhere in the shop manuals.

Well I adjusted the timing and got what I think all the power back. I tokk it up a 14 degree hill by my house without a miss or stumble so that's a good sign. Tommorrow I will return the fuel pump. Thanks MR Pushbutton! Still not sure it's running right, but I need to take it on a longer drive. Also stuck some STP in it just in case I had some water in the fuel.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrpushbutton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well, generally--when you are about to run out of gas an electric pump will start making a hard hammering sound. </div></div> Well you guess it. Stuck in 4 gallons more of gas and the hammering sound quit. However still have the lack of power I need to trouble shoot now.

Well, I got gas in the car. Just to make sure I added about 2 more gallons before I took off for the test ride yesterday. However I will double check today when I get home tonight.

Not sure what you would call it but instead of the pump sounds, it's different. Plus it won't shut off.

Looks like the electric fuel pump gave up the ghost. It sounds pretty sick. I think that may be my first move.

So I fixed the float problem. OK, now the car seem to have no power when I took it out out fora test drive. When you step on the accelerator the car stumbles. It does not gain any power if you back off or if you just wait. This happens at cold and warm. The timing looks on. The car is not running hot. Ideas? Yesterday it seem to run OK but I didn't push it much going down the hill. But I didn't detect any stumling yesterday on the very short drive.

Well I think the reason the pin might had fallen out is because the slightly longer screw that was suggested, was not there. Not sure if this was was all self-inflicted from the last time I took aprt the carb to replace the bowl plate. It is a reproduction brass bowl so not sure if the hole would have been drill accurately. I did find a .072 stainless hitch pin which I used the straight edge to make a pin. The screw with the lock washer I have in there now should be enough to hold that pin in place though some blue loctight might add some security.

What about Speedster

Jon, What a great memory. Using drill bits I was able to determine that the size was somewhere between .073 and .078 .078 was too large. I ah also never thought of the screw holding the pin, but your right it does. Thnaks for the help. Hopefully I get the pin today and reinstall the carb. Since it will be in the 70s and sunny today, it will be a great day to get towed if something else goes wrong:)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ken, There are brass rod and wire in various sizes, simalar to what you need. I have many sizes that I use in my ship models and in braz-welding. You may be able to take the float to a hardware or hobby store and find some the correct size. Stainless steel rod would be better but I think brass rod would work fine. A welding supply will have stainless and brass, but not sure if it would be the correct size. Will have to trial fit them. As long it fits without much sideways movement (too loose) and does not bind in the pivot holes, it should work great. </div></div> Looking at Tom's carb as a reference, I see the pivot pin. I'm not sure how that pin is mounted and then secured in the bowl. It should be easier to find some rod to fit, but I'm unclear once I found the correct size rod, how to install and then secure.

I just need to figure out where to buy that pivot pin. Looking at previous pictures of the car, it appears perhaps that there was never a pivot pin install. I definitey know when I went to install the top plate this winter, there was no pivot pin because I have up close pictures of the bowl where one end of the pin would have exited.

Well it was very much simpler than most would imagine. The pivot rod for the float was no longer in the carb. Not sure if it dropped out while I was handling it. Looks like one could be made very easily or I need to find a place to order this part for a detroit lubricator. The bowl was clean as a whistle.

Took my 32 out for its maiden trip today. Fr some reason the carb float stuck. I got it towed home which was only about 1/4 mile away as I didn't get too far before this issue happened. I stalled at a light, I opened the hood and had gas flowing from the top of the carb. I have ran the car for a long times in the garage the last couple of weeks prior to drivingit this morning. I had no carb issues. Am I correct that if a float sticks when you're driving on the road, I should had seen the problem when I was running the car in the garage. What's the basic repair method fof a float that is sticking?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"lovely"???... "tarted"?? Not my language. Must have been a Brit. But, I do tend to agree with the Brits when it comes to black sidewall tires and painted wheels, and that they don't tend to over restore cars. I believe the Brits value an unrestored car more than a restored car, just as I do. At the very least, they value a car that gets used the way it's supposed to be used. </div></div> Well West I have to admit, I might have gone for black walls if I had to buy tires over again. I was surprised about the guy stating his dislike for the chrome wheels as I thought that was the standard wheel finish for Duesys. However I could be wrong as that was only an assumption of mine. I just thought of you when he said tarted because it was the first time I had ever heard someone on TV criticize chrome wheels.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey! I represent that remark! </div></div> West, I thought of you this week when watching athe Amelia Island RM aution on TV. The announcer was asked what he thought of the Duesenberg up for sale He said what a lovely car, though the chrome wheels "tarted" it up.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Another problem is that there are bolt and screw heads in exterior of firwall, that need to be painted, after everything is mounted on inside. So I just used a small artist paintbrush to do those, instead of trying to spray them. </div></div> Would those bolts and screws be cadmium plated?

Pretty amazing stuff you do there with your talents. Looks good.

I wanted to thank all of you who helped on my winter project for my 32 Packard. I started the end of October and pretty much have finished on time. Barring any unforeseen problems, all that is left to do it detail the car and take it for a test spin. I almost got eveything done that I had planned (plus extra stuff based on advice received)except for the sidemount sidecovers. With the short driving season upon us in Oregon, I'll leave that for next winter. All of you were a great help as I encountered obstacles and used your help to move past them. Again thanks for the help.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Don't forget that you need the final coat of paint and the carb-linkage on the Firewall before putting the body behind the engine. </div></div> Speedster, Is this advice from experience? Sounds like something I would do.

OK I guess it was Hnery Yeska. He wants $300. Not sure if that is for one or a pair.

OK got past that hurdle. Boy that's a tough job for one guy. I used a neighbor and it went pretty smooth.

Have you contacted Bruce Blevins. I was thinking he was doing these.

No spring loaded pin. It is just the center rod that get's inserted in the front. The tough part is the rear bracket as the screw holes are not exposed with the hood closed. I'm trying to figure outthe easiest way to attched that rear clamp.