tbirdman

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for the List. Can someone tell me why they Don't consider Packards built before 1922 to be Classics ??? Do the Snobs at CCCA consider those to just be 'Old Cars' ? </div></div> From the CCCA web site... "One of the most common questions asked on this Web Site is: "What exactly is a Classic Car?" The Club defines CCCA Classics or Full Classic™ Cars as "...fine or unusual motor cars which were built between and including the years 1925 to 1948. (Some cars built prior to 1925 that are virtually identical to a 1925 model that is recognized by the Club are currently being accepted on a "Please Apply" basis). All of these are very special cars which are distinguished by their respective fine design, high engineering standards and superior workmanship." They were usually quite expensive when new with relatively low production figures. You won't find your Mom's '72 Plymouth Duster or your Grandfather's Model A Ford in the ranks of CCCA. We applaud other clubs who do recognize these cars and recognize that owning one can be a lot of fun, but they are not what CCCA is all about. "

Here's the list of CCCA "approved classics". Packard All 12 cylinder models 1932 through 1939 1923-1924 Models 226 and 233 All 1st Series 8 cylinder 1925 - 1934 All sixes and eights 1935 Models 1200 through 1205, 1207 and 1208 1936 Models 1400 through 1405, 1407 and 1408 1937 Models 1500 through 1502 and 1506 through 1508 1938 Models 1603 through 1605, 1607 and 1608 1939 Models 1703, 1705, 1707, and 1708 1940 Models 1803, 1804, 1805, 1806, 1807, and 1808 1941 Models 1903, 1904, 1905, 1906, 1907, and 1908 1942 Models 2023, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2055, 2006, 2007, and 2008 1946 - 1947 Models 2103, 2106 and 2126 All Darrin-bodied

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's because neither of those two are Senior models. </div></div> I always thought Senior referred to the all the cars that were not Juniors 110s, 115s and 120s. The best way to learn is buy a bunch of books and start reading. Here's and excellent one to start off with. In my limited knowledge, I can tell tell the difference by: 1. Any pre 9th series has a flat front grill 2. 9th series has a v-grill and no skirted fenders except for the light eight which has a snow plow front grill. 3. 10th series has skirted fenders by front feder does come all the way down. 4. 11th series same as 10th but front fender comes down further on wheel. 5. 12th and later series: radiator is v'd and slanted Just need to study the cars and after a while you get to know them especially the ones you are interested in.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 34PackardRoadsta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ken, That gen looks correct to me. The 34 red-labeled gen has a band around the rear to access brushes, not the cap like yours. Can you read the model number? Owen_dyneto posted a list of the correct gens from 1926ish to the 36 on a recent discussion. If you can see the model number, you can compare it to his list. Here is the part of the list relevant to you: <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: owen_dyneto</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> 901-02-03-04, Gen CL 1005, OD 21732 partial control 1001-1002 1003-1004, Gen CO 1130, OD 21262 partial control 1100 thru 1105, Gen CO 1177, OD 21262 partial control some 1100-1105, 1200-thru 1205, Gen CO 1240, OD 21262 </div></div> Tom </div></div> Mine says model # 1002 but it has a red tag. I'm still having issues fitting the air cleaner. I may have to get the air cleaner modified. It appears I also have an aftermarket cutout generator. I wonder if these are slightly taller than the originals.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does the mounting-bracket on front end of filter have to be modified also? It seems that it would need to be made longer as well. </div></div> No the only middle section would need to be lengthen which is a simple tune section. Unlike the original ones, these air cleaners do come apart. You could lengthen the end section butthat would be more difficult because of the mounting holes. I have indicated the two areas with lines pointing to them. I have located a correct 32 generator from a standard 8 for sale. I believe the 32 Deluxe 8 and Standard 8 generator may be both the same one. Though I may have the correct generator and maybe the just the wrong red label though talking to another Packard guy, he indicated a red label was correct for 32. Here's a picture of my current generator before I started the restoration.

I spoke with Hnery Yeska. He has run into this problem before He offered to extend the cleaner body or make a spacer free of charge except for shipping. So I just need to decide to keep it the way I have it or maybe have Hnery extend the air cleaner. The lip that goes around the louver part of the cleaner is the part of the air cleaner that causes the clearance to be reduced. If that cleared the intake manifold by extending the main body by 1/2" then the air cleaner fits without an issue.

I know about hobbies. The issue is you only have so much time for any hobby so some of us tend to move through hobbies as we move through life.

Maybe you should be a painter instead of restoring Packards. Great job.

OK with a little gentle persuasion, I was able to bend the cut out relay mounting bracket so that I have two screws holding it on. So looks like I'm past this hurdle. I suspect perhaps that the generator I have may not be the correct one causing the fit issues. Seems like if the relay was just move down a 1/2" all fit issues would vanish. That's a project for next year. Thanks for everyone's help.

Looks like both are the same diameter but the repo being longer. I think I may have found a solution. The cut out is held on with two screws. The one screw fits into a slot on the bracket, while the other screw fits into a hole. By removing the screw that fit into the hole, I was able to use the adjustment on the slot to slide down the cutout about a 1/4" but that's enough so that I can squeeze in the air cleaner. Of course now I have to figure out now if I can drill a second hole in the bracket to accomodate the new bracket position. Alternatively I might be able to live with one screw hold the cutout relay. Here's 903 picture that most I have found look like.

Everything looks the same except for the length of the air cleaner. The original one I have looks lik ethe length of the photo though thatw as from the 902. The rest I have seen show the length being closerto the repo I have with the last convex trim area at the very far right of the air cleaner lines up with the end of the manifold.

My analysis is either: 1. S neck pipe is too short-but both I have have the same horozontal distance of around ~4/1/4 ". 2. Air cleaner may be too short 3. The wrong genrator may place the cut out in the wrong spot. The easiest solution may be to just make a extender piece for the s curve to fill the ~1/2" gap. I also will call Henry Yeska as that's who I got the repo parts from.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ken, Is this the type filter you have? It has a double-elbow tube that moves filter up and in. This one is on a 902 and appears to be the norm for '32. In pic it appears to be very close to regulator but I don't see any indentation in filter, </div></div> Speedster, The original filter someone put a dent in it to make it fit. That is the filter I have. I have the original elbow that actual moves it up a little father.

Looks like that wouldn't affect the fit of the air cleaner, conly if they were smaller in diameter. Thanks for the reply.

I'm attempting to fit a repo air cleaner on my 32. The one that came with the car was purposely dented on the bottom to clear the cut out relay that is mounted on the generator. The repo is not clearing that cut out relay either. I've been told I may haver the incorrect gnerator as it has a red tag which is a higher out generator for later year cars like 33-34. Does anyone know if the generator sizes are that differnet between 32 and 33/34 that would cause this fit problem. Any other suggestions are welcomed.

Also let me add your car may have positive ground so that's the ground is the wire going to the plus terminal of the battery.

Linc400-For ASAP answers, you need to hire an appraiser. I've been on this board for over 2 years, and sometimes I don't receive an answer. I get mad? No, as I understand this is an informal group that does have some knowledge and we do have a common interest in Packards/cars. The participants are under no obligation to provide answers to anyone. Hang around, join the conversations, but don't expect us to be an instant answer service.

Never used cup liners. Do they really save you clean up time? I did buy a gun cleaning kit last weekend after I discovered that the reason for my gun not spraying correctly was a dirty gun. Re-sprayed the sidemount covers tonight and they came out great.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I see one thing that may cause a problem tho, if I'm seeing them correctly. Someone told me that running the wires from Ignition switch to distributor and the wire from coil, thru the plug-wire conduit tube, next to the plug wires, could cause problems (Inductive-coupling misfire). So, I've Not tried it. I've always run mine on the outside, so don't know for sure about that? </div></div> It's been that way for two years without problem as far as I can tell.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">After all, Hookers with too much MakeUp, can be Good people too. Under all the Gaudy MakeUp, there's usually a Great body. And it's the same with Over painted Packards. LOL </div></div> I guess Speedster won't like my redone engine compartment, or he will have to at least where sun glasses.

Why not try to keep everything original and try to use the bulbs that are brighter that they advertise. Blankets and a honey is probably a pretty efficient heater

The width seems about 1/4" shorter. Perhaps since the company is new, they may have mixed up the old inventory and didn't notice the difference.

If you are adding up what it would take to make a #5 car into a presentable car, you almost always are better buying the best car you can afford. I can imagine most Packards selling for $5K or $7K would need a lot of work. All that work cost $.

I'm glad you did your research. Even at the $2K difference, that sounded like a big money pit.

OK looks like I figured it out. The small spring pulls the rod forward which blocks the carb vanes from opening when the choke is open. Thanks for your help, and I learned a lot from this exercise.