tbirdman

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: superods</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks Birdman.... Will ask 1500 for a set and 500 for the speedo. I could break out the speedo if you want it...will trade it for the wheel if that works for you. Also need a complete dovetail set for one of my doors on 32 coupe that was not with the car. </div></div> OK how about a steering wheel for the clock and the speedo?

Sounds like Tom is advocating a car commune. I have sold parts to people on the list at what I consider a reduced price from the market price. But I can surely see if you are trying to restore a close Packard, the price of the parts hurt worse than if you are doing an open car relative to the final value of the car.

Tom, For woodgraining, the underneath needs to be as nice as if you were painting a car, though the woodgraining may hide some defects. You can have bondo as the paints will cover up anything underneath.

Tom, I think from the discussions that perhaps there was a change in dampners where the design changes from using a friction material and the two halfs would slide against each other, to the spring and rubber core one you have. According the the "Dampner Dudes" who rebuilt mine, it was like yours.

Superods, Not sure if you did your interior yet, but I found tonight while cleaning up, a magazine article that looks like a reprint of a Packard 1932 Deluxe 8 brochure. Don't know if the standard 8 would be the same, but here's the 902 coupe picture.

In the 2007 PI membership guide there are ~3000 cars listed. So this doesn't count those who don't belong to PI or those who do not list al of their cars but 3K is a bottom line number you can start with.

West, I didn't notice the ones on the cowl and was only counting initially the headlights, trippe and the other light in the middle. Yikes, what was the restorer thinking with 9 lights?

From what I can see from watched E-bay auctions. Two clocks went one for 50 and one for 71. I know NOS clocks were available for $400. A "restored" temp gauge went for 320. It appeared that face had not been restored. A speedo in good shape went for $200. I personally bought a year ago a full set of gauges including clock and speedo for $400. I still have them. I used the acquired ammeter when I restored my gauges to make one good ammeter. Your pricing doesn't seemed to be unreasonable unless you are talking to a non-Packard owner or someone who is rstoring on a tight budget If the guages need to be restored, that's another $2K plus on top of the acquisition cost. I wouldn't let the full set of gauges go less than $2K.

OOPS! Not sure what I was thinking. Maybe I was blinded by the lights It does have the West "trifecta". Chrome wheels, whitewalls and too many lights.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Are those chromed wires? </div></div> Noooooo. </div></div> West, I saw this car in the latest PI magazine. It has your preferred black walls but the owner lost his way with the number of lights.

Are those chromed wires?

Trade you a 32 steering wheel for the gauges and speedo.

I took the easy way out. I brought my hupcaps to a guy who does vehicle lettering for a living. He used the paint around letters process you described.

Well if Steve's exhausts are anything like the Bijur pump rebuild he did for me, his quality should be very high.

I was going to use stainless. I hadn't heard about and drastic sound changes vs. steel.

Looking for a recomendation for exhaust system supplier for my 32 Packard.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 34PackardRoadsta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ken, Here is a copy of my owner's manual. See the carb section. http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/article/view.article.php?165 Cheers, Tom </div></div> Thanks. The owners manual for 32 is devoid of any useful information like this. It would be handy of a 32 manual existed. Ken

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clipper47</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman Jon. </div></div> Found out the problem was that a late 50s Ford Victoria had a stuck throttle. Slammed into a 60s vette and then a junkyard Volvo. The Ford had to be towed. The vette looked sad with its fiberglass side all crunched. 10 minutes earlier, and I might had been the vette. The guy must had panic as the tire marks looked looked like a K-turn in the street. [/quote</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> How did the "junkyard Volvo" make out? Probably better than the Vette </div></div> The volve had it front corner hit. No disrespect to the Junkard Volvo, but I don'tthink it was even there for the cruise, but just parked by some unlucky resident.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: carbking</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Tom, and Ken - while the float was designed to be adjusted as Tom suggests; another way that does not cause possible damage to a very expensive float is to change the thickness of the gasket(s) between the fuel valve seat and the bowl. Jon. </div></div> Good advice. I don't think I'll be messing with the float as it ran fine last year and seems to be doing OK this year. Took it out for about a 60-75 mile spin today. Went to two cars cruise ins today. Was lucky that I hit the snooze button this morning. Went to the first car show and was waiting in line. It wasn't moving. Found out the problem was that a late 50s Ford Victoria had a stuck throttle. Slammed into a 60s vette and then a junkyard Volvo. The Ford had to be towed. The vette looked sad with its fiberglass side all crunched. 10 minutes earlier, and I might had been the vette. The guy must had panic as the tire marks looked looked like a K-turn in the street.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 34PackardRoadsta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey Ken, The only adjustment on that carb, I think, is the metering valve at the bottom of the throat. According to my manual (for the 733, same carb as yours), you tighten it down until the engine starts to stumble, then slowly open to the point were it is running smoothly. If you have a vacuum gauge that you can hook up to the intake manifold you can do the slow unscrewing until vacuum is maximum. The float is adjusted by bending the connecting tab either up (for a higher float level) or down. Cheers, Tom </div></div> Tom, What manual do you have? Nothing that I have indicated anything like that. In factthe Packard manuals I have all seem to be sketchy on details.

I just hope I didn't buy at the peak.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Steve_Mack_CT</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Agreed. In some ways many of the prewar cars are great buys now, especially when you consider relatively flat prices over the last 20-25 years and the inflation factor. no other takers on a caption to the Hemi Packard?? </div></div> I thing the closed models are a great buy as they have not kept up with the price surge of the open models. Here's a 1934 Victoria Super Eight offered at $425K. Seems just a little over priced but the seller is probably looking at the 33 Super 8 Victoria that sold for $414K in March. I believe this is the same 34 that is for sale for $425K. car.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Johan Boltendal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hello Ken, Congratulations , well done. One question,like to know, why did you re route the fuel pipe? Johan '32 Cadillac AWP </div></div> I route the fuel lines as what I thought was correct. Every 32 I have seen seems to have the fuel lines routed differently.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Steve_Mack_CT</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Great job, Ken. Did you do all that with the engine in the car? How far did you have to go in terms of disassembly to reach that level of detail? </div></div> The engine compartment was clean, but not up to my standards. My friends laugh at me because with the 12 Cadillac I bought, I claim that I plan just to drive it. They laugh because they say the Cadillac will soon receive "Ken's touch". I can't stand to see average on my cars The engine was left in the car and the hood removed. Most of the things like the starter, oil filler, distributor, carb, air cleaner. splu wires and holder etc were removed on the car. The manifold was removed to be re-porcelain. The radiator assembly/grill was removed. I didn't touch the generator or the steering gear. The firewall was in very good shape so I didn't touch it. Most bolts were replaced with new bolts. You remember my experience with the paint cracking on the head when I tightened down the head bolts. I repainted the head while on the car, but was able to mask off the gasket to keep it unpainted. I did try to do the engine bay per the detailing guide PI publishes not that I will be getting it judged in any events that it matters. It's amazing how much time I spent on the some things that are barely visible now like the valve cover and the splash pans. Most people wouldn't drive a car this nice, but hey I'm crazy.

OK it's on the road and seems to be running OK. Here's the before and after pictures of the engine compartment. Besides detailing the engine compartment and a valve job, I rechromed the grill shutters and replaced the windshield wiper motors.