huptoy

I have seen two different 1939 Buick Roadmasters with a red cloth interior? Please look at the attached photos and let me know if the 1939 used the red color. The red is very looks nice but was it an interior actually used?

Have you driven to Dayton before? What routs are you planning to use? What hotel will you be staying in? Without a trailer, it is a 5 hour drive to Lexington. During the week, driving through Cincinnati between 3:00pm and 6:00pm is not fun, even without a trailer. Your biggest problem in Cincinnati is the drivers all want to get their first. The last 3 miles in KY is a very steep down hill grade, I would go down in the second from the right lane if you will be taking 75 in Ohio. I will be going to Lexington on the 3rd and returning the 5th.

You lill need to purchase a VALVE SPRING LIFTER KD TOOLS for a FLATHEAD ENGINE Check ebay Item number: 150351034323

Additional Photos of truck.

Auction is near Dayton, OH on Saturday, June 13. If anyone is interested I will attempt to get additional information. I just found out the truck does run. Check out the photos.

Nice story except Packard had air conditioning in their 1940 car.

1973 Cadillac Coupe DeVille. 502 V8 engine, 60,500 original miles, light yellow with gold interior, vinyl roof, PW, PS, PM, AM/FM radio, original plastic covering on back seat. Just completed 3 hour trip from Eastern Kentucky to South West Ohio. Lots of power, loves to run. Customary Cadillac ride. $6,000.00 - Call Jason at (937) 623-3964

When you give up on trading for a 73 Cad, go the the "For sale/buy" forum and check out "FS - 1973 Cadillac Coupe DeVille, 60,500 miles, Eastern KY car"

1973 Cadillac Coupe DeVille. 502 V8 engine, 60,500 original miles, light yellow with gold interior, vinyl roof, PW, PS, PM, AM/FM radio, original plastic covering on back seat. Just completed 3 hour trip from Eastern Kentucky to South West Ohio. Lots of power, loves to run. Customary Cadillac ride. $6,000.00 - Call Jason at (937) 623-3964

I doubt if you will find anyone who will commit to the formula you are looking for. A rule of thumb in the 1960's & 70's was the trailer should weigh less than tow vehicle. The hitch weight will normally be about 10% of the total trailer weight. If you pull a 16 foot trailer it will have close to 250 pounds hitch weight. Try standing on the back bumper and watch the back end go down. I successfully pulled a 4,000 pound 20 foot Starcraft tandem axle trailer and a 4,200 pound 26 foot Airstream tandem axle with a 4,400 pound 383 CID 1967 Chrysler Newport. Because of the high speed rear end, the car pulled best in the 60 to 70 mph range. The trailer hitch weight will require the need for a class III frame hitch with weight equalizer bars. Air shocks are not an option to lift the rear of the vehicle. Longer trailers will require an anti-sway hitch attachment. You will need to hook up the trailer brakes and the car's drum brakes will give out in hard usage.

When I show my 1931 car, I get several requests, each year, by brides to be to drive the bride and groom from the church to the reception. I have done it as a favor to friends but not commercially. If I charge, my antique car insurance increases from $112 to $1,000 a year. I was also asked about prom to pick up the couple for photos, take them to the restaurant and then to the dance. They are responsible to get home after prom. It would be for a 3 hour time period with a value of $450.

How about a 1979 Lincoln Continental Collectors Series Sedan. Triple dark blue, new leather interior, and rare fixed glass roof. Florida car with 52,000 miles and no rust in perfect condition. Car is in Dayton, Ohio

Do you have a 21-24 - six seventy Thermostat Housing. Prefer to purchase or will provide deposit to borrow one to make a copy. The Thermostat Housing consists of: a one-piece all-metal bellows, a valve, and a housing. Contact Merle at 513-897-2360 Dayton, Oh

I use a cloth cover under the covers. I only cover the cars in the winter and dust off the cars each time I drive them. I usually drive both cars once or twice a week from April through October. 1953 Willys Aero Ace & 1931 Hupmobile Model S.

I use a "carJacket" cover. The one on the right is on it's 8th winter and the other was new this year. They come in various sizes but are always more than ample to cover the car.

Check out "Classic Woodgraining" @ 2640 Fairfield Pike, in Springfield OH at (866) 472-4648 or (937) 298-0032

You are on the high end of the Buick's capability. You don't say if the trailer has brakes. If not, seriously consider adding electric brakes to the trailer with a controller in the tow vehicle. I pulled a 4,000 20' travel trailer with my 1967 4,400 pound Chrysler with a 383 motor. With the electric trailer brake, we had no problem stopping. Originally, we pulled a 2,000 pound 1969 Starcraft fold down with surge brakes and a 250 pound hitch. Air shocks only worked marginally and we put a class III hitch with torsion bars. The trailer towed like it was part of the car with no jerking while going down the road. I highly recommend you use the class III torsion bar assembly. Watch your rear end gear ratio, you need to check the 69 Buick specs and ensure you are not using the higher ration available. It was common in the 60's to go to the next lower ration when towing. If I remember correctly, our Chrysler had the option of a 2.76 or an a 3.23 ratio option.

We have used State Farm on our modern cars for years and years. We started using them for our antique cars about 8 years ago. I found the rates very good and they have me set the valuation, no appraisal required, only photos of car.

Hupmobile didn't synchronize 2nd & 3rd gear until 1931. My 31 has been known to grind when shifting in to 1st. I have heard 28's grind when put in gear after starting. Also, when you stop at a light and leave it in neutral and then shift into 1st, they will grind a little bit. Double clutching will ease grinding when shifting into gear. You might check to see if it has a high idle. Not sure I have given you a fix but have fun.

Just a heads up on the 1,825 AU price. The Australian exchange rate changes daily and on Dec 17th, it is about 69.6699% to the US dollar. The actual cost is closer to $1,271.47 plus shipping. I have been running on one for the last 5 years without problems. I also have a repaired original U2 as a backup, it is pot metal and has been repaired with epoxy more than once.

My brother suggested I feed the mice outside and not make them go inside to get food. I put a bucket, upside down, on a couple of bricks, near the door, with a wood trap underneath. The mice will go for the bait outside and will drastically decrease the number that get caught inside. It is not fool proof, but it will help.

The 1931 Hupmobile has had the problem for 4 years but it starts easily and runs good. When I start the engine old, I pull the choke about ¾ out, hit the starter for about 3 seconds and push the choke in and it fires up. Cold, I only need to hit the starter. Increasing the idle fixes the stalling problem and is mostly an in convince. The plugs do show signs the carburetor runs rich, even with the air/fuel mixture set at full lean. The timing is correct per factory specifications and I use an electric fuel pump. I have replaced the points, plugs, and condenser about 2 years ago. Additionally, I am not using platinum plugs. I have had the car 8 years and driven a total of 12,000 miles, this is a pretty driver. It has a 70 horse power 6 cyl thaw as reported to cruse at 70 mph but I seldom run more than 55. I have bagged the car for the winter and will address suggestions in the spring. I purchased the 53 Willys Aero in June and in September was tuned up by an experienced mechanic about 4 weeks before I started experiencing the stalling problem. This car has low vacuum at the manifold but I haven’t identified why. The plugs are not platinum. It has a manual choke and pulling it out ½ it will start immediately when cold. If I touch the gas peddle or the choke when it is warm, I must pump it to get it to start. This car is up for the winter so spring is another time.

<span style="color: #3333FF">I have a MoToR's FACTORY SHOP MANUAL Copywright 1937 that covers 1931 through 1936. I believe the Ross Steering Gear is the same on the 1928 through 1932. The following is the adjustment instructions for a 1931 or 1932. This may help when you are adjusting the reassembled unit. </span> ------------------------------------------- <span style="font-weight: bold">STEERING GEAR, ADJUST S, L C, 214, 218, 221</span> Detach drag link to eliminated possible misalignment and binding of steering gear, loosen bolts housing to frame and loosen steering column bracket at instrument board and retighten both. Loosen clamp which holds steering column jacket tube. Tighten the cap screws in the cover on the engine side of the housing. <span style="font-weight: bold">Cam End Play Adjust</span> Loosen the screw which adjusts cross shaft end play, located on the engine side of the steering gear housing. Loosen the adjusting plug lock screw, located near the top of the steering gear housing. Turn the adjusting plug down until there is a barley perceptible drag when the steering wheel is turned by grasping it lightly between the thumb and forefinger. Tighten lock screw and nut. <span style="font-weight: bold">Cross Shaft End Play.</span> Turn steering wheel to mid-position. Tighten the cross shaft end play adjusting screw, located on the engine side of the steering side of the steering gear housing, until a very slight drag is felt through the mid-position when the steering wheel is turned slowly through this range. Tighten the lock nut. Lock the jacket tube by tightening its clamp. Turn the steering wheel to see if any stiffness exists. If it does not turn freely, adjustments are too tight or steering column is out of alignment. When adjustments are ok, connect drag link

I have a 1931 Hupmobile and a 1953 Willys both die when I slow down from highway speeds of 50 to 60 MPH to 20 or 30 at a ramp. I have corrected the problem by increasing the idle speed but this is a work around and not a fix. Where is my problem, is it in the carb or electrical? The Wllys started this last weekend when we took a 600 mile trip of highway and back road tour. I am looking for suggestions.

It would help if you can post a photo of your 'large pulley puller' as well as the size of the hub. I would assume the thread count is 16 to the inch.